Building Materials and Construction Technology
LB: The electricity will be cheap at Malmbergs, around 15-20'. Then feel free to compare the plumbing items with Rinkabyrör, they are often recommended.
brevik: Anyone done it? We live in a mexican brick house that we'd like to have plastered to a smooth nice plaster surface. What might that cost approximately?
pmf: OK everyone, after a lot of investigation, here comes some calming information; everything emits radioactivity more or less, and quite a few things also emit radon, like the ground and bedrock, and sometimes even the groundwater, but as mentioned, more or less. When talking about Radon in shale (there are very many different ones, as you others already understand...) we often mean so-called Alum
Immobil: Check with your municipality's storage, they usually have those lying around. I assume it's a decksel you're after ????
Mjölnaren: First, you need to space c/c 30 in the ceiling. Join them together the same way as when laying tongue and groove flooring, but with the difference that you angle screw/nail in the tongue. There were only "visible" screws towards the walls, but these are hidden behind the ceiling molding. I think it was easy to work with and turned out pretty nice too. It retains its color and shape even after 8
swede: Hello Tumstocken I have the same thoughts, we are building with skivor in Latvia, it is more expensive mtr for them, but when house constructions in the Yourmala area end up at 5-6 million, they want the best. I will definitely build with skivor when I build my holiday cabin in Sweden Best regards ::)
Mjölnaren: When I built our woodshed, I made the walls with "reverse" lock paneling....... ;) I used 22x145. First, I attached the paneling on the outside and left about 90 in between each. (Had the wall framed horizontally with 45x45.) Then, I placed the locks on the inside. This way, I achieved superb ventilation and protection against rain.
swede: [citat] Hi Email them what you're interested in and you'll get a response quite quickly ::)
Tommy_S: Grabber's new stainless decking screw was exceedingly good I must admit. But actually, I nail.
Tommy_S: [citat] No, indeed. But at the same time, there is a veeeery big cost difference between repairing and redoing. If most of the plaster is still there after 30+ years, it will probably stay in the future too. KC plaster can actually be so hard that it is loose but still stays! :)
Tommy_S: Yep, MathiasS is right. Cover with a tight press but not all the way down to the ground. It must be able to ventilate.
MrMagic: Otherwise, you can always install a cornice and fill the gap against the wall with construction silicone (paintable!) and paint the whole thing...
Eld: How much filler is needed depends entirely on the size of the floor slope. Try to estimate approximately how much volume needs to be filled.
devnull: If you are going to paint the trim, you can do like the carpenter - latexfog.
yonna: Too late ::)! Got tired in my hand :P I have 'dabbed' some paint from Humbrol ... it looks okay at least ... it's not really meant to hide that the stairs are cracked but rather to show that the stairs have been taken care of after all ;). Don't want to deceive any potential rich buyer!
devnull: Old cellar walls built to handle moisture were plastered with lime plaster and usually painted with an open paint like lime paint or silicate paint. If one wanted to furnish and insulate the cellar, the walls were covered with wood wool boards as plaster carriers (www.traullit.se). Painting an old cellar wall with plastic paint will most likely lead to mold problems sooner or later. Similarly, it
Troubleshooter: Have been thinking, it will probably be glulam for both beams and posts, have been around looking and concluded that it seems difficult to find any posts that are straight enough to use, same thing with 170 joist........
koko: THANK YOU for your detailed response! We took a walk in the area over the weekend and saw some houses (similar to ours) with corner boards where it didn't disrupt the overall impression. So we might consider that after all. Since the wood is in very good condition everywhere except for some ends, it would feel reassuring to protect them a bit more. We have, in any case, ordered enough timber
rickardg: Hello, I have some thoughts about material choices for the walls for house construction, I would prefer to build with stone, feels more solid. I am currently only in the planning stage regarding the house construction (Planning to design myself and start building a 2 or 1½-storey house with a basement, in about three years near Linköping). The options I'm considering: * 20cm? Aerated concrete +
osmbergs: I have been following the previous thread about wooden or plaster facades with interest. However, what I didn't get clarity on is the 'opposite', a wooden facade on a house with a brick/concrete frame. We live in an older house with a brick and concrete frame and concrete floors and a plastered facade. We are slowly starting to plan to build an additional floor either by raising the existing
Bob_the_builder: Yes, technically it does. 17 mm meets the load-bearing requirements, but it is pretty boring to work with (cracks more easily than 22 mm when nailing near the end grain at joints, for example) and feels more wobbly to walk on. I would definitely recommend 22 mm. The price difference is not particularly large.
MathiasS: [citat] Wise words. I don't remember where I read it, but there is a fear that plaster on wooden houses will become the most common construction/design flaw of modern times. Similar to how bathrooms were built in the past....
gaia: have been given the price of 140kr/m2 for oak parquet: sanding and 3 x lacquer. The lacquer is probably worse than what you get on new factory-lacquered planks, I think. I would choose to switch to new 7mm instead of sanding but for us, it is not applicable (old, thick oak floor) gaia
tiggre: 2 is almost optimal ;) if you're 3, one can make coffee until you're done osså :)
swede: Hello You can buy Hallsbergstegel at High Chapparall (Brännehylte Handels) tel 0370-82700. You can also shop there with Gnosjödollar. Regards swede