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byggherreNR1: After being involved in construction for a couple of years now, I've realized how much you can haggle if you buy slightly larger quantities of material and plan well in advance. I have teamed up with my sister, father, and a friend. Through this, we have received much lower prices, the suppliers are much more accommodating, and the leftover material we've been able to exchange among ourselves. A
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AndersG: The funny thing is that waterborne underfloor heating is cheaper in concrete slabs than in wood. In our house, we have it embedded in the basement and entry level. The floor in v2 is wood with underfloor heating in deflector plates. See: http://www.wirsbo.se/ifs/files/Wirsbo/swe/Presentation/Website/Produkter/Golvvxrme/Golvvxrme.jsp
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zankan: More important is the wall dimension... And "There are two large arches in it and it is not reinforced but just framed in the usual way and covered with chipboard." is hmmm load-bearing structure R30 let's hope so, chipboard doesn't seem serious... the wall should be at least 145 mm and contain 2 gypsum, 95 frame, 2 gypsum, alternative is 1 layer of gypsum replaced with a layer of ply or osb
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norrifran: The iron beam is placed as extra support for the denser framework and so that it does not fall through directly in case of a fire, for example (the beam can support a weight of 2 tons). The foundation will probably be cast in concrete, or a plate will be placed on top of the framework with the iron beam in the middle. I hope this will work. Best regards, N
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MathiasS
MathiasS: but next time, make sure to use a REAL breathing mask (not one of those paper cups with rubber bands) and feel free to use a spray bottle to moisten and reduce the dust (not everyone in the room may have a mask). You probably won't feel bad from this, either now or later, but someone should give your supervisor a proper kick in the backside.
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Norre: Place the frame in the right position in the opening, secure with two 4" nails. One in each corner in the screw holes. So that the frame doesn't fall. Level the g-side and top. Shim the door. Tighten. Attach the door and fine-tune it. DONE! Is the frame already in place and you don't want to reset it? Then, as the man above said, it's time to bring out the "knäckar'n." Doesn't work? Maybe you
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dymlingen: I first built a floating dock but got tired of it being so unstable. It was 4x4 m and rested on 8 blue plastic barrels. Maybe the flotation blocks are better. This year I cut off the barrels and placed it on four large concrete pipes (about 60cm dia). We'll see if it remains until spring or if the ice has knocked over the pipes. The forces in the ice are incredible.
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Bob_the_builder
Bob_the_builder: Well, I didn't dare to take a chance, so I went with joint tape. The dealer will probably have to deliver a few extra boards if they run out... ;)
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moonrocket: Sure, I found that link too, but thanks anyway! It would be fun to hear from 'regular' people as well about their experiences with stepkit; Timell is usually (maybe rightly so) very satisfied with his works.... :)
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valter53: Have a builder make the foundation and erect the frame with roof trusses. The rest you can do yourself if you have done some carpentry before. When I expanded 10 years ago, I did it this way. You must have access to the crawl space. Alternative: An opening from the outside or make a hole in the existing foundation. Good luck Torsten
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LennartL: If they exist I do not know, have never seen them ... but you can buy tracks and hanging rollers for a sliding door at Jula, and then build yourself (a hanging-sliding-door requires fewer adjustments and is normally easy to build, but not one like this with all the glass :o), so the alternative is to have a custom carpenter build it, I guess.
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jedj: Thank you, it turned out to be gothenburg oak (almost knot-free) for 349:- per sqm, quite okay at mattvaruhuset!
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Hero2: I have bought a split-level house built in '74. During the inspection, moisture was discovered in the insulation in the floor of the rec room. We managed to reduce the price of the house quite a bit because of this and have been recommended to use the Nivell system instead of the wooden joists that are currently directly on the slab. My questions are: 1. Is the Nivell system the best option or is
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Thor-Sten: Hi! I completely agree with "Lurvnos"! Epoxy is the way to go! Definitely avoid PL400, which is colored and adds height, meaning the joint will be much too visible. If you have trouble finding slow-curing epoxy, I can recommend Nordells, which sells knife materials. (http://nordellknives.com) They have an excellent American slow-curing epoxy glue. (I've used it myself and am more than satisfied!)
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Immobil
Immobil: [citat] Yep, but it might be far from you: http://www.mjallby-trabygg.se/ ;) They deliver most of the material for our renovation which you can follow on the website. ;)
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jorwes: For those of you considering making your own staircase, there is a company; Trappteknik from which you can buy designs. These include templates in a 1:1 scale, which greatly simplifies the process. Check out trappteknik.com /Jögga
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Jante
Jante: Hello. If you want to purchase electricity, there's a lot available at http://www.knifab.com/ at good prices....
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zankan: Then it's a concern, it must be kortlas otherwise it will never hold....
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Immobil
Immobil: [citat] 8) Yep, check out: http://www.dromfonstret.se/ However, I haven't tried it myself. ;)
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A-K: Thank you for your answers. :) I am also wondering if you have to contact the chimney sweep for a new pressure test (We have just done one)? If the plaster has any significance for the tightness or something like that? /A-K
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Matti
Matti: thanks ;) edit: and this was definitely not off topic.. :D
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Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] Available in 7cm thickness too..
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Sonander: I think it might be worth it. Someone at my work had their upper floor redone because the quality manager didn't approve the job. Now that we're adding another floor, we got the recommendation from the supplier to get one ourselves. They could refer a kvalans, but thought it would be better if we did it ourselves.
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Norpan: Sorry for the delay with the price list, but it is loaned out and I'm waiting to get it back... :-/ I'll try to hurry up a bit, promise.... :-/
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Immobil
Immobil: Here you can find both loose hinges, mirror doors with or without frames, and much more: http://www.spikenikistan.com/sodermalm/index3.htm ;)
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sollentuna: Thank you for the response! Is it 170 sqm of living space for the house, or is it facade area?
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frasse: Nice!
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Solana: http://www.nobleteam.com/ Does anyone know anything about them? Considering marble windowsills. Their marble tables are also nice. Seems to be good prices, about 270 for a windowsill, right?
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Sartsa: :-[ ... forgot to mention preferably in the Stockholm area....
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Niq: If you take glass from a bus, you should take the inner glass (buses usually have insulated glass) because the outer one is mostly tinted.
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