I have searched a bit here on the forum regarding my "dilemma" but haven't found anything, so I'm creating a new thread instead. I'm about to start framing interior walls in our renovation project and would need some help to reason through how I should do it. Some requirements:
* Good sound insulation
* Walls that can hold when screwing and hanging things
My thought has been to have 13mm gypsum on the outside and a layer of OSB inside to make it more stable to hang things on the wall and easier to screw things up. Many seem to do this nowadays.
If I were only using one layer of gypsum, I would have planned to: Frame with cc90 and use nogging between the studs, and mineral wool in the compartments between studs and noggings. I've learned that the fewer the studs (i.e. the larger the cc-distance), the better the sound insulation. By having cc90, you can use 90-panels instead of 120, which are much easier to handle.
BUT, if I want OSB on the inside, it becomes tricky to have cc90 between the studs because I then can't offset the seams between the OSB layer and the gypsum layer if I want to screw the gypsum into the studs and not just into the OSB layer... I could set the studs with cc45 (then I could offset the gypsum layer by half a panel width, i.e. 45cm), but that's a heck of a lot of studs, which would also likely worsen the sound insulation.
So what to do? Use cc60 and then 120-panels with a half-panel overlap, which becomes cumbersome since 120-panels are much bulkier than 90-panels?
*sigh*. What are your opinions on this?
/Kristian
* Good sound insulation
* Walls that can hold when screwing and hanging things
My thought has been to have 13mm gypsum on the outside and a layer of OSB inside to make it more stable to hang things on the wall and easier to screw things up. Many seem to do this nowadays.
If I were only using one layer of gypsum, I would have planned to: Frame with cc90 and use nogging between the studs, and mineral wool in the compartments between studs and noggings. I've learned that the fewer the studs (i.e. the larger the cc-distance), the better the sound insulation. By having cc90, you can use 90-panels instead of 120, which are much easier to handle.
BUT, if I want OSB on the inside, it becomes tricky to have cc90 between the studs because I then can't offset the seams between the OSB layer and the gypsum layer if I want to screw the gypsum into the studs and not just into the OSB layer... I could set the studs with cc45 (then I could offset the gypsum layer by half a panel width, i.e. 45cm), but that's a heck of a lot of studs, which would also likely worsen the sound insulation.
So what to do? Use cc60 and then 120-panels with a half-panel overlap, which becomes cumbersome since 120-panels are much bulkier than 90-panels?
*sigh*. What are your opinions on this?
/Kristian
Absolutely cc60 and large panels (and a friend to help carry...)
Speaking of which, Martin T built a soundproof wall a few weeks ago. He used 90 panels, because the large ones couldn't be brought up to the apartment. cc45 steel studs and overlapping osb/gypsum. This wall was an additional wall on top of another and he achieved better sound insulation by having a gap between the walls.
Speaking of which, Martin T built a soundproof wall a few weeks ago. He used 90 panels, because the large ones couldn't be brought up to the apartment. cc45 steel studs and overlapping osb/gypsum. This wall was an additional wall on top of another and he achieved better sound insulation by having a gap between the walls.
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 219 posts
I got a tip last fall that it's fine to screw the drywall into the OSB boards. It worked perfectly.
Frame cc 60, OSB 1200, and then drywall 900. Then it's not so heavy with drywall 1200, about 25-27 kg. The larger the boards, the fewer seams to spackle... and spackle... and spackle... and spackle.
If you take 1200-drywall, just make sure you start with whole OSB boards all the time. So you can split the drywall boards at the start of each wall.
Mats
Frame cc 60, OSB 1200, and then drywall 900. Then it's not so heavy with drywall 1200, about 25-27 kg. The larger the boards, the fewer seams to spackle... and spackle... and spackle... and spackle.
If you take 1200-drywall, just make sure you start with whole OSB boards all the time. So you can split the drywall boards at the start of each wall.
Mats
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 219 posts
I believe that how you place the studs, etc., doesn't have a big impact on soundproofing. Something that many miss is to insulate under the support beam and above the top plate.
Even if the studs are flush against the floor/ceiling, there's space for sound. If you have sparse beams in the ceiling and the top plate is set against them, there is a 22 mm gap for sound if you don't seal here.
Even if the studs are flush against the floor/ceiling, there's space for sound. If you have sparse beams in the ceiling and the top plate is set against them, there is a 22 mm gap for sound if you don't seal here.
you can use EPDM rubber, the most important thing is that you get a reasonably tight construction....
regarding 600 and 450 cc, 600 is better but in your case completely irrelevant from a sound perspective as you hardly have sound requirements over 54 dB. More guiding is choosing the dimension of the studs, 45 is worse than 70, which is worse than 95, and so on...
And you can forget the filler reasoning because it will be about 1 more joint/3.6 meters of wall and it is hardly time-consuming as such. Also, it doesn't go faster to assemble if you count the entire method time, but whatever...
If you are going to use a tight construction, you should also leave about a 5 mm gap all around between the ceiling, adjoining walls, and floor. This gap SHOULD be sealed with acoustic sealant or latex.
regarding 600 and 450 cc, 600 is better but in your case completely irrelevant from a sound perspective as you hardly have sound requirements over 54 dB. More guiding is choosing the dimension of the studs, 45 is worse than 70, which is worse than 95, and so on...
And you can forget the filler reasoning because it will be about 1 more joint/3.6 meters of wall and it is hardly time-consuming as such. Also, it doesn't go faster to assemble if you count the entire method time, but whatever...
If you are going to use a tight construction, you should also leave about a 5 mm gap all around between the ceiling, adjoining walls, and floor. This gap SHOULD be sealed with acoustic sealant or latex.
In your case, it doesn't really matter; it's when you reach levels around 60 dB that it can have a certain impact.... And in a normal home, internally within the residence, you don't need more than say around 44 dB sound reduction between rooms. And the critical point is not the wall construction; it's any doors, windows, ventilation, and other penetrations.
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 219 posts
But what type of insulation should be used under the sill and between the hammer beam?zingo said:
Regular insulation?[/quote]
Underneath, I took a thin strip of regular fiberglass and applied PU glue. This foams up with the moisture either applied beforehand or from the air's humidity.
This seals excellently. The reason I glued was that I have laid underfloor heating under the chipboard, and can only use short screws.
On top, we packed it with insulation to make it airtight.
This is for the small toilet with a shower. And if you stand by the wall outside, you can't hear what's going on inside.
Then there's always a bathroom threshold at the door, which lets through some sound.