Building Materials and Construction Technology
JonasHolm: Diffspärr should not be used together with ekofiber. /Jonas
anaitis: Note: If the beam continues continuously beyond the bearing line, it is not advisable to pass through right there. A continuous beam has its maximum moment at the internal supports!
AndersS: What glue should I use if I want to glue together wood materials for sauna use, i.e., that withstands both heat and moisture? I want the same function as regular wood glue since I want to fix some larger dimensions and possibly a frame for a round window.
Fredrik1976: In the 50s, they "repaired" the sills in our kitchen, rather removed the rot-damaged parts and then sealed the damage with fiberglass. Now that we've removed all the old fiberglass, what do you think I should put there instead? They also poured a slab in the 50s! So it will be against concrete. Can I seal with leca? Or should I spray foam there?
ByggaNytt: http://www.trainformation.se/pub/valjatra/s11-17.pdf http://www.trainformation.se/pub/valjatra/valjatra.asp
snabela: I recently installed an I-beam in steel that was 180 mm over the flanges and 172 mm high with a span of just over 4 meters. Really heavy to lift, but incredibly stiff. I don't think the columns are anything to worry about as long as it's end grain and they stand on something solid and strong. I screwed and glued three 145x45 as columns on each side, but it felt excessive. I was never keen on
Anonymiserad 23608: The leveling system is undoubtedly the smoothest solution for uneven concrete. This presupposes that the slab is at least 50 mm thick, which shouldn’t be a problem as long as you’re not living in Bromma... The studs are dried and finger-jointed, making them much straighter than the lumber at the lumberyard. Making your own studs with the tap is not a good idea as the lumber at the lumberyard
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=21925/0]Other[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Anonymiserad 23608: What is above the joist floor? Large spans and a busy upper floor can cause sway/movement in the joist floor that causes it to crack.
Mats: [citat] The difference is 6 SEK per fitting on 120X300 between Byggmax and Beijer. If you need 100-150 fittings for some rafters, it adds up quickly. The same goes for nails, 3000 3" costs almost twice as much at Beijer as at Byggmax. These are Beijer's list prices. It's usually possible to get a 30-40% discount if you stand your ground a little. Conclusion, compare prices and always try to
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=6077/0]Electricity[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Farzan: Hi, I'm planning to build a new kitchen in the former dining room. It turns out the wall where most of the kitchen cabinetry will be placed is skewed - it's not perpendicular to the adjoining walls (one end is 2.5 cm closer to the opposite wall than the other) and it bulges near the middle. So, I'll need to straighten it out. Two questions about that: 1. I'm considering tearing out the drywall,
Jante: Saw on a website that SKIL has a biscuit joiner, http://www.skileurope.com/sv/producten_service/catalogus/model_popup.php?productgroup=18&product=0 has anyone had experience or seen it in real life? Should be in the mid-price range. Best regards, Jante
entranced: Okay, what I've done now is mounted a rule on the boards where the ends of the chipboards meet to have something to attach the ends to and to reduce the risk of movement at the joint. How do I best minimize the appearance of the joint between the chipboards and reduce the risk of cracking once everything is painted and finished? Simply filling and painting over the joint is hardly sufficient,
calle_d: The construction shall be above ground. But can't we cover the wooden beams with something then? So they don't absorb moisture? Put something between the beam and the lecablocks?
calle_d: 1. The floor beam is mounted parallel to the wall and positioned with a 1cm gap between the wall and the outer edge of the beam. wall | 1cm | | <beam | | | | | | | | | 3,4. So, you mean that first you mount the support board along the 45x45 rule, and then secure the setup with plates on the sitting 195x45 beam? The plates should then
charta77: It got damaged. And used 45x45 fixed in roof truss and stud. Then there are interior walls, additional vertical studs, etc. Perhaps another proof that one shouldn't think too much and create unnecessary worries all the time..
Faidros: There are many brochures to read on their website: http://www.isola.se/sidor6.asp#montanv
chris47: There are ready-made windowsills in oak available for purchase with rounding and everything. Otherwise, you can buy a countertop and ask the building supplier to cut and shape the rounding. /CC
Skogsbananen: I think people usually use a wire brush disc on the drill and then klinkerolja. But I've never done it myself...
Fasting65: Place a U-profile around the walls like Lindab's SK30 or SK43. In this, hang mexihatts (s-profile - secondary profile) across the room. Hang the plasterboards from the mexihatts. Voila - a straight ceiling. http://www.lindab.com/sweden/products/pdf/profile/byggreglar_139.pdf http://www.lindab.com/sweden/products/pdf/profile/byggreglar_136.pdf
matshermansson: No, of course. It just keeps getting better and better. :) And I've been eagerly cheered on by my 4-year-old son too. "Dad, I think you're doing a great job" A clever trick, that little flatterer. But it works!! :D
chris47: We only have 5 cm around, and with ventilation above with 5 cm grid. /CC
zingo: It's a mile from the field but sometimes that's enough. ;)
anitaka: Thank you thank you thank you! Quick response! Anita
styrman1: 13mm particle boards do not exist; they are 10, 12, 16, 19, or 22mm thick. There are also thicker ones, but that's not what we were talking about... As already written, your idea isn't great, but I suggest you put OSB or plywood behind the plasterboard and then install molding around your windows. They are adequately thick and cover nicely. Then you can also hang paintings or cabinets on that
dalle: OSB is great, I still think it's easier with vertical panels and studs where OSB and plasterboard are placed overlapping by half a sheet. The plasterboard is screwed with a long screw through the OSB and into the stud.