I'm planning to install 230V spotlights in the ceiling and believe that metal boxes should be placed above them to keep the heat in check.

The first question is whether this is really necessary, or if it's sufficient to cut out a large "hole" in the insulation.

The second question is where to find old boxes of the appropriate size (15 cm deep, 15 cm wide). I've called five grocery stores, but none have this kind of scrap anymore.
Where else can I look?
 
Special protective cans for spots are sold by regular electrical retailers... You probably shouldn't use "just any can" but rather those intended specifically for spots. There are surely many regulations around this.
 
Most wholesalers sell thin paint buckets for this purpose, about 2-3 liters.

The most important thing is to ensure it covers the heat radiation.

Another thing is that there is poorer light from 230v than from 12v, with the same effect on the light source. Moreover, 12v is easy to do yourself.

230v systems require fireproof cables between the spotlights, and they are expensive as heck.
So if 12v systems are more expensive to purchase in terms of transformers, etc., it pays off with all the accessories for 230v.

Mats
 
There are two different jars for spots at Clasohlson.
 
OK, but what happens if a trafo breaks down where it is located behind the drywall?
Doesn't that become a hassle then?
 
Timmervikarn said:
.. 230v system requires fireproof cables between the spotlights..
Mats
Is that when installing with a box, or what do you mean?
Our electrician used regular FK when he wired between our spotlights in the bathroom. Now, all six are indeed in a larger box lined with gypsum inside..
 
GoForIt said:
in a larger box lined with drywall inside..
Wow! But doesn't the gypsum board burn pretty well?

If you find old paint cans with at least the same volume as those sold at Clas Ohlson, have you done enough then?

And why are 230V lamps sold at all if 12V provides "better light" and is easier to handle? The price difference isn't even in favor of 230V. 12V is usually cheaper in ready-made kits with a transformer and everything.
 
zingo said:
[quote author=GoForIt link=1143537066/0#5 date=1143544326] in a larger box lined with plaster on the inside..
Wow! But doesn't the plasterboard burn quite well?

If you find old paint cans with at least the same volume as those sold by Clas Ohlson, is that enough?

And why are 230V lamps sold at all if 12V provides "better light" and is easier to handle? The price difference isn't even in favor of 230V. 12V is usually cheaper in ready-made packages with a transformer and everything.[/quote]
Plaster is considered a non-flammable material, and as far as I know, it's used in places like boiler rooms for fire protection. I'm not the least bit worried about my solution, as the safety distances are very generous. The electrician who installed them had no objections; in fact, he expressed the opposite, saying, "-It was an unusually good solution." I even contacted the manufacturer (in our case Markslöjd) to hear their reaction.

230 V is sold to avoid a transformer, or in many cases, multiple transformers. When we compared prices of 230 V against 12 V when installing our IP44 spotlights in the bathroom almost two years ago, the 12 V solution was significantly more expensive. Mainly because of the transformers. We also had problems with where they would be placed.
 
I'm very curious about your gipslåda.
It seems like something for me. I like to build things myself.
Can you describe in more detail how it is made?
 
zingo said:
OK, but what happens if a transformer breaks where it's located behind the drywall?
Wouldn’t that be unfortunate?
The transformer is pushed up into one of the holes for the spots, with a little slack in the cable to pull it down again if needed.

Regarding the cable:
My brother-in-law, who is an electrician, mentioned this about the cables when we installed a system last fall. On regular FK or EKK, the sheaths are not heat-resistant. There was something else about these cables, but I can't remember it now.

I don’t know why 12v lights better. But I can attest that it does. I have my own 12v at home, and at another site, we installed both types. Then 3 of the 12v shone "more" than 6 of the 230v.
It's hard to say what it is, but it feels like it's a whiter light.

Surely someone here has good physics knowledge about this.

Mats
 
zingo said:
[quote author=GoForIt link=1143537066/0#5 date=1143544326] in a larger box lined with plaster on the inside..
Wow! But doesn't the plasterboard burn pretty well?

If you find old paint cans with at least the same volume as those sold by Clas Ohlson, have you done enough then?

And why are 230V lamps sold at all if 12V provides "better light" and is easier to handle? The price difference is not even in favor of 230V. 12V is usually cheaper in ready-made packages with a transformer and everything.[/quote]


Now it's probably the same with spotlights as with everything else. There's cheap and there's more expensive, and then there's, of course, outrageously expensive.

Mats
 
zingo said:
I am very curious about your gypsum box. It seems like something for me. I like to build things myself. Can you describe in more detail how it is made?
I have simply installed extensions on our existing roof trusses, built equivalent "short studs" between them, and thus constructed an additional box over the entire space. I have put gypsum on the inside everywhere. I have put wedges in the slat panel to which the ceiling is nailed and sealed all the joints to make it as tight as possible. Finally, a lid with a gypsum inner sheet on top (which I have screwed in so that it can be removed).

Then I have placed a new vapor barrier over the entire construction and put back all the insulation. I have built two boxes, and in each box there are three spotlights. Additionally, I have placed a small piece of aluminum sheet (with holes for the spotlight) on top of the inner ceiling right where the spotlight is placed, to further protect the inner ceiling, as well as the places where the spotlight ended up right on a slat panel board.

Perhaps I should add that we have a cold attic.
 
On top, I have a lightly insulated but unheated, furnished loft.
Then I probably don't need a vapor barrier, right?
 
zingo said:
On top, I have a lightly insulated but unheated, furnished loft.
Then I probably don't need a vapor barrier, right?
If you have a vapor barrier in the ceiling today where the spotlights will be installed, then install a new one on top.
If there isn't one today, then you probably don't need one.
 
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