Building Materials and Construction Technology
MartinT: [citat] The quality of EPS is usually measured by indicating the compressive strength for short-term load, which in practice is the breaking strength (10% deformation) expressed in kPa (kilopascal). A higher short-term load also results in a higher long-term load, which is actually what is interesting for a house foundation. S80 thus has a short-term load (breaking strength) of 80 kPa, S60 = 60
Damaskus: Hello everyone. I have just decided, after much agony, to build new and plan to do most of it myself. "Everyone" says that it is dirt cheap with both building materials and furnishings in places like Poland and such, is there anyone here who has experience with that and who would be willing to share them? Regards//
Skogsbananen: Or you can buy a bottenventil and attach the part that should be facing up upside down in the mold. Then it's just a matter of taking it apart, placing a gasket, and you're good to go!
JonasHolm: I realized that I actually asked Isover about this a while ago. Sometimes one is really forgetful... [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif] They recommend a vapor retarder like Mataki Halotex on the inside. /Jonas
sofie_skane: Thank you for all your answers! :D I think I'm going to try with Mdf boards, I'm going to drive around today and see if I can find them somewhere. ;)
Ingenjören: If you can attach the stud properly to the floor and ceiling and cover it with drywall, 45x45 is sufficient. If you want the wall to be a little more stable without making it thicker, you can always use 45x70 "on the flat" if you know what I mean? Another trick is to nail in a noggin at the middle of the wall height to stiffen the wall. /The Engineer
Haakan33: I am considering buying a corner aquarium with a total weight of about 1500 kg. Background: The aquarium is triangular-shaped 150x150 cm, and a diagonal of 180 cm. I plan to place the aquarium in a corner on a ground floor with a basement. The floor joists are 195 mm high, and the length between the walls on which the floor joists rest is 200 cm. The width between the floor joists is 60 cm.
spikmas: You can stain pine stairs (which are considerably cheaper) to achieve an oak-look. It can look good but the durability/hardness is still that of pine stairs. There are some threads about stairs - search!
Magnus_Nordmark: Hi! In that case, use square tubes, for example 40x20x1,5 that should work. On the walls, mount a brande rail which you lay and anchor the ribs in.
NiclasR: There are those stairs that they usually call alternating tread stairs or loft stairs. On these stairs, a part of the step is milled out so that the staircase can be installed steeper (though not very comfortable to walk on). Maybe something to consider as a solution?
flisan4: :) With the newly purchased paradisiacal cottage came a cute little guest house that has a steeply sloping roof covered with paper, kind of like asphalt (roofing material? - but "thicker"?). The lower half of the roof is covered in moss and I think it might damage the underlying layers and perhaps should be replaced. How can I do this most easily? Maybe it doesn't need to be replaced if I remove
v99koma: Thank you for your opinions! Made it easy for myself and called a kekelsättare instead. He is coming to take a look at the wall today. Feels safer to have a professional do the job.
Ubbe: [citat] Exactly what I was going to write ;D Just for fun, I will check the dimensions of the houses at home and see what they should have been according to today's standards. A wild guess says that the timber dimensions are 25-50mm below what they should be today.. The residential house was built in 1910
snuttjulle: The risk is that husfix will also be rejected by the chimney sweep who is supposed to approve the chimney. Check with him before you go ahead with husfix anyway.
ABAN: Hello, is it complicated to change the size of windows if they are in a rendered wall? Thinking about the difficulty of the repair work, getting the new plaster to look the same as the old one.
rudivoller: Thank you for all the tips. I bought this type of drill: [bild] To drill straight I used this gadget: [bild]
Schwingen: Sure... It does create quite a bit of dust. But if you water the wall, it gets a bit better; it's enough to cut grooves at the edges with the angle grinder. The rest you can take with a sledgehammer and chisel.
Skogsbananen: Depends a lot on how the wall is constructed. Light concrete, studs + drywall, plank... ?
bmx: considering building a loft in my extension. It's about 4.6 m to the ridge internally, so I want to build the thinnest possible floor structure. I also want to avoid pillars in the middle and instead hang the floor structure from the ridge beam. I've been thinking about building this floor structure in steel. Does anyone have experience with this? I saw Lindab's byggalätt system which might
polanders: Yes, of course, it is dried to some extent. It usually ranges from 10-20%, which is a bit high for gluing. Furniture dry wood is usually considered under 8%. Fredrikssons in Vaggeryd has oak planks you can buy that are furniture dry. The drier the wood you use in a construction like furniture or window frames, the less risk of the wood warping or cracking.
perese: [citat] Funny, the last time I was at the recycling center and specifically asked where the old treated wood should be disposed of, they referred me to wood, i.e., where all other wood was discarded. Maybe it's different depending on where you are, or perhaps incompetence...
Anonymiserad 23608: I use the full set. Stanley utility knife, a small stiff handsaw from Irwin with a sharpened tip and coarse teeth, Hole-in-one, 70 + 80 mm hole saws, a long and round Surform drywall rasp, edge cutter, beveling plane, Goldblatt drywall square, carrying handle, foot lift, fixing pliers for metal studs and the fixing tool for metal outer corners. All packed in a systainer (well, not the ruler..).
Mats: Varies with different silicon variants. Some work fine. Some don't work at all.
jojjje101: I am starting to build a porch roof as this is missing. The house has a gable roof and the entrance is on the short side. I want an overhang of about 1000mm and a width of 1500. The idea is to make a light frame to be covered with sheet metal. I also don't want any posts from the roof to the ground. Has anyone built something similar? Pictures? Assume that the load-bearing supports must go from
Lagavulin: Hello! I would like someone who is an expert in kitchen/bathroom construction to explain how the 32mm system works, preferably with pictures, etc. thinking about adaptation for hinges and drawer expanders, etc. my link... http://www.festoolusa.com/Web_files/32mm_System_and_the_Festool_Hole_Guide.PDF Lagavulin
newport: [citat] Is there a formula for how dense the other reinforcement should be in a retaining wall?