Hello!
I have experienced a water damage, see pictures below, under a kitchen drain. The boards closest to the leak have been really soaked, as if they had been lying in water for a long time.
If you look at the top picture, you can see a white/gray coating that I would think is mold on the planks. The bottom picture shows some planks further along with the wet planks that have warped.
In conversation with a moisture inspector, he believes that the boards will dry up on their own. Which means they do not need to be replaced.
I personally feel that it would probably be best to replace the planks just to be safe. But I must admit that since discovering the water damage and stopping the water supply, it has dried a little.
I assume it takes longer for everything to be resolved if you don't replace the planks because otherwise it has to be opened up so it dries.
Now I would like to have your opinion on the matter, replace or dry? What is most suitable?
Kind regards, Fredrik
I have experienced a water damage, see pictures below, under a kitchen drain. The boards closest to the leak have been really soaked, as if they had been lying in water for a long time.
If you look at the top picture, you can see a white/gray coating that I would think is mold on the planks. The bottom picture shows some planks further along with the wet planks that have warped.
In conversation with a moisture inspector, he believes that the boards will dry up on their own. Which means they do not need to be replaced.
I personally feel that it would probably be best to replace the planks just to be safe. But I must admit that since discovering the water damage and stopping the water supply, it has dried a little.
I assume it takes longer for everything to be resolved if you don't replace the planks because otherwise it has to be opened up so it dries.
Now I would like to have your opinion on the matter, replace or dry? What is most suitable?
Kind regards, Fredrik
CHANGE IT! Then you are on the safe side and don't have to worry about having to tear it up in the future. How do you know when they are dry enough to be built in again? Is it possible to remove ALL the potential mold?
We have experienced water damage in our newly purchased house. 15-20 years ago, there was a frost plug in the bathroom. They didn't replace anything but just laid a new floor with new exposed pipes. It was NOT fun to tear up vinyl flooring and tiles and find pulverized beams underneath
We have to replace both the outer corner of the house and the lying outer beam + some smaller beams. Thankfully, this counts as a hidden defect, and the previous owner has to open their wallet. Although "our" damage hasn't had the opportunity to air dry like yours has. BUT whether you stay or move (and the next owner finds the damage), it will be you who pays IF the wood has started to rot.
Once again: CHANGE IT! It's not fun having to deal with that after several years.
We have experienced water damage in our newly purchased house. 15-20 years ago, there was a frost plug in the bathroom. They didn't replace anything but just laid a new floor with new exposed pipes. It was NOT fun to tear up vinyl flooring and tiles and find pulverized beams underneath
We have to replace both the outer corner of the house and the lying outer beam + some smaller beams. Thankfully, this counts as a hidden defect, and the previous owner has to open their wallet. Although "our" damage hasn't had the opportunity to air dry like yours has. BUT whether you stay or move (and the next owner finds the damage), it will be you who pays IF the wood has started to rot.Once again: CHANGE IT! It's not fun having to deal with that after several years.
Remove the boards, take out the filling/insulation, and check/dry the floor structure. Fungicide treat the parts that have been wet before you nail everything back together.
If it's a wet wooden floor structure, it usually takes 1 week to 14 days to dry with a proper dehumidifier. Other materials like brick or concrete take significantly longer, up to 6 weeks. If you rent a dehumidifier, it is an advantage to wrap the wet area in plastic and direct the dry air behind the plastic, thus concentrating the effect where it is most needed. Rent a moisture meter and keep track of the drying process.
If it's a wet wooden floor structure, it usually takes 1 week to 14 days to dry with a proper dehumidifier. Other materials like brick or concrete take significantly longer, up to 6 weeks. If you rent a dehumidifier, it is an advantage to wrap the wet area in plastic and direct the dry air behind the plastic, thus concentrating the effect where it is most needed. Rent a moisture meter and keep track of the drying process.
Hello!
I just had a guy from Munters here (via the insurance company).
He thinks it will dry on its own with the help of a dehumidifier after about 1.5 weeks.
He also "killed" all bacteria with some solution.
However, I feel a bit skeptical after what you have said.
You can't really get away from the dehumidifying, but my estimate is that about 1 sqm of boards would need to be replaced. Feels better than just spraying them with some bactericidal solution.
Is there anyone who has experience with this solution that Munters is implementing now? Does the result turn out well?
Best regards,
Fredrik
I just had a guy from Munters here (via the insurance company).
He thinks it will dry on its own with the help of a dehumidifier after about 1.5 weeks.
He also "killed" all bacteria with some solution.
However, I feel a bit skeptical after what you have said.
You can't really get away from the dehumidifying, but my estimate is that about 1 sqm of boards would need to be replaced. Feels better than just spraying them with some bactericidal solution.
Is there anyone who has experience with this solution that Munters is implementing now? Does the result turn out well?
Best regards,
Fredrik
A lot depends on how "fresh" the damage is. If it hasn't been wet for a long time, then there's probably no problem.fredand44 said:
Hello!
Came home yesterday, and after looking at Munters' work, it looks pretty good if you check the pictures.
I suppose the best solution is still to use the dehumidification to ensure the surrounding boards that haven't become damp yet, and then still remove the ones that were wet. However, I think Munters might protest against this idea, but it would probably feel best to do it anyway.
Note, I don't doubt that Munters know their stuff. But I still think their technique combined with replacing wet timber is best.
Please feel free to comment!
Best regards,
Fredrik
Came home yesterday, and after looking at Munters' work, it looks pretty good if you check the pictures.
I suppose the best solution is still to use the dehumidification to ensure the surrounding boards that haven't become damp yet, and then still remove the ones that were wet. However, I think Munters might protest against this idea, but it would probably feel best to do it anyway.
Note, I don't doubt that Munters know their stuff. But I still think their technique combined with replacing wet timber is best.
Please feel free to comment!
Best regards,
Fredrik
Exactly, I had a fungal damage in my house myself. Now it was cellar fungus and not house fungus, so it was quite calm with timber exchange, but the main rule is that fungal spores can't be removed, you can only ensure they don't get a good environment, i.e., keep it ventilated and dry.Benno. said:... Mold spores are everywhere, and it's only when the right environment occurs that they start to grow, so it's fine until the next water damage
What's special about house fungus is that if they don't have the right environment in one place, they transport moisture to that place to create a good fungal ground. House fungus can even pass through dry concrete via its own moisture transport.
I highly recommend replacing the damaged wood material. Indeed, over time, dehumidification will dry the wood enough to prevent mildew, but until that day, mold will thrive and grow on the damp wood.
Furthermore, mold has probably already grown in your flooring material. Drying the wood does prevent the mold from spreading, but it absolutely does not remove the mold that has already established itself.
It is absolutely not true that moisture-damaged wood that is not rot-damaged is automatically fine! Mold (fungus) grows at a lower RH than rot fungus, which essentially requires free water. In other words, mold can grow long before rot damage occurs.
That rot damage is unsuitable from a construction standpoint is, of course, correct, but it is equally correct that mold is unsuitable from an indoor environment standpoint.
Furthermore, mold has probably already grown in your flooring material. Drying the wood does prevent the mold from spreading, but it absolutely does not remove the mold that has already established itself.
It is absolutely not true that moisture-damaged wood that is not rot-damaged is automatically fine! Mold (fungus) grows at a lower RH than rot fungus, which essentially requires free water. In other words, mold can grow long before rot damage occurs.
That rot damage is unsuitable from a construction standpoint is, of course, correct, but it is equally correct that mold is unsuitable from an indoor environment standpoint.
There is no house free from mold spores, the amount depends on whether they get the opportunity to reproduce. Drying moisture-damaged and not severely mold-affected parts works.
If the costs are not insurmountable, you can of course replace the damaged wood, as it's not fun to keep worrying afterward, whether it's justified or not.
It is important to address the cause of the damage.
If it is dry rot, it is almost better to throw in the towel.
If the costs are not insurmountable, you can of course replace the damaged wood, as it's not fun to keep worrying afterward, whether it's justified or not.
It is important to address the cause of the damage.
If it is dry rot, it is almost better to throw in the towel.
How is a layman supposed to assess what constitutes a "severely" mold-infested part? Currently, there is no scientist, or layman for that matter, who can determine the degree to which mold negatively affects the indoor environment. What those with experience in serious damage investigation know is that there is a connection, but to try to define the discomfort as a function of quantity/type/location/nutritional base, etc.skyten said:
The advice is therefore categorical and simple; mold does not belong in the indoor environment and should be avoided whenever possible if you have the opportunity and interest.
Personally, I find it very hard to believe that anyone would get sick from a small spot of mold in a space where one rarely stays, but that is just my personal opinion, completely lacking scientific basis. However, I see no reason whatsoever for a consumer to settle for anything less than, for example, an insurance company handling a claim by completely removing all mold-damaged material.
Unfortunately, insurance companies love to install dehumidifiers because it's cheaper for them, but as previously mentioned, the method has the "small" disadvantage that the mold remains!
No, it's not. True dry rot, just like all wood-decay fungi, can be sanitized. What is unique about dry rot is that it is significantly more aggressive, so the costs are usually higher.skyten said:
However, I wouldn't recommend anyone who is not a professional in the field to buy a house with an ongoing dry rot infestation.