Hey,

I saw at the fair in Stockholm that there was a company working with stair renovations.
They had some kind of adjustable template and they offered L-shaped laminate.

Does the company have a site?
 
P
I considered using Stepkit for a staircase I wanted to spruce up, but due to the staircase's dimensions (too wide and sometimes too deep steps), it would have been too expensive to buy Stepkit. I used parquet of the oiled oak plank model and milled and oiled my own stair nosings instead. The cost for materials and about 3 days of work ended up being a few thousand kronor less than it would have been with Stepkit, despite significantly more fiddling.

Their "step gauge" is simple but clever. I haven't seen it in real life but tried to make my own from strips of hardboard with grooves and a locking mechanism with a small bolt, washers, and a wing nut. However, it was too wobbly.
It also worked well to use a try square, folding ruler, and bevel gauge—though it involves a heck of a lot of measuring for an entire staircase!

I glued the parquet on the steps so that the tongue stuck out at the front and milled/sawed a corresponding groove at the right height on the stair nosing. Then it was "just" a matter of stacking pieces, gluing, and tapping with the rubber mallet!  
 
I bought their tool for measuring the treads in the stairs. Worked great! It was cheap too.
 
Thanks :)
 
I was thinking of doing a similar job with my basement stairs.
But I'll just buy the "stair compass," laminate flooring from Hornbach or similar.
For the stair nose, I was thinking of using a brass strip (angle) with grooves on top to provide slip resistance! I believe this won't cost an arm and a leg either....
 
just placed an order for the stair compass...

also planning to use laminate

to stabilize the staircase, can you place a 2"2 on the underside at the angles and glue/screw it from above? (want to make it REALLY stable)
 
Why wouldn't it be stable?
My buddy has done similar, works great!
Just glue it and hammer it in! 8-)
 
was thinking more if there were better ways ;)
 
Hmm okays.....is probably no danger....it should be stable!
 
To ACME:

What thickness did you have on the parquet? 14-15mm? Or thinner?
For the stair nosings, did you make them from planed oak wood, or what did you use?

// Fia
 
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I used 15 mm oiled oak parquet (plank) which I glued together and into the stair nosing with wood glue. I glued to the tread and riser with PL400 because "my" staircase was old, worn, and a bit uneven, and I wanted a glue that allows for a bit of building. In some places, I also secured the pieces with brads, but only where it would later be concealed by other pieces. For the stair nosing, I used 15 x 69 mm planed oak. This staircase originally had quite high stair nosings, so it was necessary to use sufficiently wide oak pieces to cover the old nosing + the 15 mm thickness of the parquet. It would probably have looked nicer with 15 x 45, if it had covered, but it all blended together quite well once the moldings were oiled.
 
ACME: You don't have some nice pictures, preferably close-ups of the nose and stuff!
 
P
Can include this as well for everyone who thinks clicking is strenuous :D

trappbekl%e4dnad.JPG

Very good method that gives an old trappa new life with simple means. Pretty cheap too ::)
 
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