Building Materials and Construction Technology
svh9633: Hello! Tearing out the upper floor and ceiling as I need to remove all the kutterspån and insulate with a ceiling at the ridge. Now, the crossbeams for the roof trusses are really ugly. Since they will be visible when you have a ceiling at the ridge, I'm wondering if there is a beam that can be purchased that looks good from the start. I don't want to cover these but want to put up a nice one
phl: There we go, now that job is done... Well, almost anyway. As I suspected, the old putty or whatever it was was in poor condition in certain places. It had detached from the substrate and it seemed like the putty itself wasn't properly mixed since under the surface it was almost as loose as gravel. Knocked off all the loose stuff, primed, and applied new putty. Now I just need to buy a finer putty
slurbo: Hello good people... I have just completed a house purchase and am about to take on my first project in the house. It is a single-story villa with a basement (low ceiling though) and my problem is that I want to insulate an additional room in the basement. The room in the basement is directly under the living room and is about 35 square meters, and I think the floor gets reasonably cold. In the
zingo: Can't you make the main fastenings in the ceiling/floor and then just supplement with some kraterfästen in the wall behind?
Mikael_L: [citat] But that's what you do anyway, even if it hasn't snowed and rained during the setup... ::)
halloy: Oh, great. There it is!!! Thank you so much! Now to the question: Does anyone know how to build wardrobe doors from aluminum profiles?
hans: Bowing for the answers I received today, I got a lot of info and better names (like PLV) for many of the things I was wondering about. As a side note, I have been doing quite a bit of carpentry on and off for about 25 years and have done many renovations, mostly in older houses. I'm not formally trained, so there have been some beginner mistakes, etc. (a long time ago ;)). I like constructions
vedeldaren: Sometimes old stairs are just a shell of concrete and filled with cobblestones.
ktm250: For chimneys, C-mortar is used. KC-C = 50/50/650 KC-B = 35/65/550 Lime/Cement/Sand
vedeldaren: Anyone know who sells patterned boards? Like plywood with a herringbone pattern or similar that you can use if you want to nail it on an exterior door or a gate.
sirbo: I have a similar one from k-rauta and just the first part of barely two meters. I use it to work up in the cathedral ceiling. Works great and is easy to move. Also works super in stairs. One tip is to compare different variants. The one I looked at at bauhaus was about 20 cm narrower than the one at k-rauta and cost about the same money.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=59239/0]Biofuel[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
fransico: Thanks for your replies :) I have now purchased materials at bauhaus and will try to set it up tomorrow. On the ceiling, it will be that plank. I've got an idea myself that it will look good ::) it became an oak plank, looking the same as the one on half the wall. On the floor, it will be 2 oak trims that are 12cm wide together with a small oak trim to even out those 0.8mm differences between the
Anders_Roslagen: If you splice more rafters, do not place the cuts symmetrically. Offset the cutting surfaces so that the rafters do not sag in the same place (sag might be a strong word but you surely understand).
zingo: The chimney is the heart of the house. Utilize its charm instead of seeing it as a problem. ::)
nickenick76: Hello everyone! My first post here. Just wondering if it's still possible to make money by buying stuff in Poland and if anyone knows if you can order directly home without having to go down yourself. Or if anyone from Norrland is interested in carpooling down.
Ingenjören: If you don't have any foundation wall in the basement under the wall you want to tear down, it undeniably sounds like it isn't load-bearing. At the same time, it sounds a bit strange with a wall only under half of the wall in a straightforward single-story house.... (regardless if the wall is meant to support the roof or the floor joists) A floor plan and section sketch through the house with
Pedda_P: I'm going to wrap the boy in question in foam rubber and let him run up and down the stairs for a couple of hours before I continue thinking, the stairs aren't steeper than I can slowly walk down with a two-year-old in my arms without risk, i.e., without holding the handrail, thanks for the input, children adapt quickly too :) it's worse for someone else
Mats: Renting a drywall lift is definitely a very good investment. It makes things a lot easier and I didn't even pay 100 SEK for the one I rented over a weekend.
JesperS: Panel in dimension 13x70 is available in the standard range at "my" lumberyard, Järna Trä, so it shouldn't be too difficult for others to get.
JesperS: Just screw the drywall directly, the old wallpapers and the masonite can also stay underneath so you avoid the demolition work. Renovation drywall (6 mm) is the easiest. If there is a clay plaster layer underneath against the timber, and you tear it down and screw drywall onto it, small pieces can fall off under the drywall in the future, which is why it's fine to leave it as it is today.
__OJ__: When I'm now going to renovate, it's possible that you can't do whatever you want! Is there a good place to read about this in an easy-to-understand way? No highly advanced stuff, but for example moving the plumbing a bit, water, putting up a wall or two, installing new electricity, etc. Thank you for the response...
ByggPutte: I had used 90X90 and slotted them into the post holder, then slotted in a bearer at the top. What can you have on the roof? Best regards, Putte
saltrulle: Actually found a very accommodating sheet metal company today, which had exactly what I needed. Got 2.5 square meters of black sheet metal for two hundred bucks :) I think it said planja on the rolls... :) Thanks anyway.
ByggaNytt: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=56059/0 http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=56189/2
bmx: we have a 4 meter long H-beam above a window section in a plastered lecawall. The floor above is made of wood with horizontal wood paneling. The carpenters let the wood paneling go all the way down to the window and it looks ridiculous. I would like to have a similar plastered surface above the window where the beam is as on the rest of the wall. How can this be solved? Perhaps attach some type
skytte: A trim strip of 6 mm (I recall that renovation gypsum is 6 mm) that covers the gap between the frame and casing is what I would probably opt for. Then you attach the casing to it... If you want, you can also fill between the casing and the trim to really make it blend together.
thomas33: Does this document help you? http://www.finlex.fi/pdf/normit/6376-F2r.pdf page 5 a table of various stair step heights and depths.