Hello!
I’m sure there are more people than just me who have encountered stubborn walls when trying to drill holes for something (in my case, passage for a heat pump)..
Total wall thickness 28.5 cm, and construction from inside out:
Wall covering (panel with locking pattern) 4mm
24 mm horizontal plank wall
45-46 mm air gap
cardboard-like but only one layer (possibly the moisture barrier of that time?)
45-46 mm vertical plank/stud (suspect another plank wall since the start of the next plank/stud was visible sideways)
14mm porous board (might be part of the wind protection from the outside)
tar paper 2-3 mm
35 mm plank
double tar paper (probably just over a joint) 2-3mm (*2)
24 mm plank, most likely the old outer wall
45-50mm mineral wool or similar (additional insulation)
tar paper 2-3 mm
17mm outer panel base plank
22mm outer panel cover plank
The insulation before the additional insulation should be sawdust, which I didn’t find anywhere in the hole I made (indicating I hit a stud).. Maybe an unusually stubborn wall, but it also means you don’t need to be afraid of making one or two holes..
Is this a "completely normal" construction for a 30s house (built in -36)?
/PeO
I’m sure there are more people than just me who have encountered stubborn walls when trying to drill holes for something (in my case, passage for a heat pump)..
Total wall thickness 28.5 cm, and construction from inside out:
Wall covering (panel with locking pattern) 4mm
24 mm horizontal plank wall
45-46 mm air gap
cardboard-like but only one layer (possibly the moisture barrier of that time?)
45-46 mm vertical plank/stud (suspect another plank wall since the start of the next plank/stud was visible sideways)
14mm porous board (might be part of the wind protection from the outside)
tar paper 2-3 mm
35 mm plank
double tar paper (probably just over a joint) 2-3mm (*2)
24 mm plank, most likely the old outer wall
45-50mm mineral wool or similar (additional insulation)
tar paper 2-3 mm
17mm outer panel base plank
22mm outer panel cover plank
The insulation before the additional insulation should be sawdust, which I didn’t find anywhere in the hole I made (indicating I hit a stud).. Maybe an unusually stubborn wall, but it also means you don’t need to be afraid of making one or two holes..
Is this a "completely normal" construction for a 30s house (built in -36)?
/PeO
Wow...
Our house from 1938 has walls that are about 15 cm thick. From inside out:
Tretex, masonite, or plaster on netting and reeds depending on the room
2-inch vertical tongue-and-groove plank
Tar paper
1-inch lattice framing with sawdust
Tar paper
Horizontal tongue-and-groove 1/2 inch (cheap wood)
Tar paper
Vertical paneling barely an inch
Cover strips
It's perfectly fine to make holes in it with a reciprocating saw. As usual, if making large wide holes, they need to be reinforced, but otherwise no problem.
pinebar
Our house from 1938 has walls that are about 15 cm thick. From inside out:
Tretex, masonite, or plaster on netting and reeds depending on the room
2-inch vertical tongue-and-groove plank
Tar paper
1-inch lattice framing with sawdust
Tar paper
Horizontal tongue-and-groove 1/2 inch (cheap wood)
Tar paper
Vertical paneling barely an inch
Cover strips
It's perfectly fine to make holes in it with a reciprocating saw. As usual, if making large wide holes, they need to be reinforced, but otherwise no problem.
pinebarThe exterior walls of our house built in '42 are as follows from the inside out. 1/2" tretex, 2" vertical, 2" horizontal, cardboard, approximately 40mm lime plaster. Such a wall is said to have a U-value of about 1. Like a really good modern window, that is...
