Building Materials and Construction Technology
arny: If the nets are already there, I probably wouldn't remove them, but I haven't put nets on my house. Personally, I don't think you have much chance of keeping the insects out. They probably find their way in.
sirbo: I was just informed by Setra's sales manager who impressively called me, a small private builder. Kudos to them! According to him, they have delivered Czech and Chinese boards to Byggmax. The Czech ones are well below the limit, at the same level as the Finnish ones, under 0.10 mg/m3. You can visually see the difference; the Czech ones have five layers of veneer, and the Chinese ones have seven
Milkshaken: Hutonit maybe...? Can be found at places like Cheapy and most other hardware stores...
jon_h: To begin with, I think one should check whether there are signs of moisture damage and mold behind the materials that are there today. Then one can also approximately measure how much moisture is in the wall and concrete slab. After this, one can decide what needs to be done. There are lots of threads here about furnishing basements, take a look at them to see what solutions exist.
jon_h: As you say, hard to see. It doesn't seem to be a new crack, but it looks like putty that has come loose from an old one. I definitely think this is due to vibrations from the drilling. But as I said, dig it out and putty it again, and it will quickly show if there's any more movement.
snickar_lasse: Hello! There are several types of boards on the market, everything from MDF to HDF. If it's not something particularly fine you're going to make, you can choose a cheaper one. For kitchens and bathrooms, the harder boards are used. The cheaper soft ones are easy to get dented.
Lilljonte: I am building a house and I will be installing OSB and plasterboards. However, I found out that you should not place OSB edge to edge but instead leave a gap of 4 mm vertically and 2 mm horizontally. This is in case the OSB swells......... Regards.
Lilljonte: For wall studs, I would use 45x195 and for floor joists 45x220. If you don't want "regular" trusses, to create a good space in the loft, I would place a laminated beam as a ridge and use 45x195 as rafters. If you go to http://www.svensktlimtra.se/, you can see which dimension to choose for the laminated beam. The floor should be soundproofed with some form of insulation as previously mentioned in
styrman1: What does a swans neck look like in profile? that's how it should sit!
jon_h: It is fine to plaster directly on the wallpaper before you paint; you do not need to tear it down.
alneskog: Hello! I want plastered walls (indoors) on the basement level. (On the outside of the walls, there's an air gap of about 2 m, so it's not directly earth/rock against the wall). I've thought about adding insulation on the outside later. What should I consider when plastering and painting (I want a white wall with a slightly rough plaster) the inside? (It shouldn't be too tight, right?) The walls
ByggPutte: If it works with the 10mm distance you can always saw off 10mm with the hand saw. Or let those who did the job do it. 8-) Best regards, Putte
SWE_Monstro: It was gypsum plaster... it absorbed really well and didn't weigh much so it adhered well even upside down... so now there's a nice smooth transition... and the fact that it dries super quickly is definitely not a disadvantage... then to get a nice finish I applied a thin layer of filler on top... perfect...
Mats: That question has come up before and as I remember, five cm is too thin if you want to get a decent heat economy.
lillenp: Well, if I could show it with pictures, it would have been easier. But briefly, it involves the old underliggarna in combination with T-upplag of 95:or.
arne: First of all, thank you for all the answers. The timbers are 2.5"x6", so not as thick as "Byggaren" estimated. The cross-beams are nailed with two 5" nails that are bent on the backside. The strut is thus attached with four nails in total in the double cross-beams. The other potential question mark regarding the placement of the beams in relation to the rafters is that they are not placed in the
morton: To get an approximate price when I am going to do a renovation, I use "www.byggmax.se." Then I also know when I should haggle with the planing mill.
ByggaNytt: Hello and welcome! It will be a bit easier to answer if you describe what the current outer wall looks like in cross-section, meaning what/how materials the wall is made of!
Strixx: I bought a recessed handle in brass at the local hardware store. It cost about 50 SEK. Routed out a hole and screwed it in place. It turned out really nice.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50068/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
aftermath: Hello I wonder if anyone knows where to get Band-it's veneer products (www.band-itproducts.com I believe is the website). These seem very convenient since they come in both "self-adhesive" and "iron on" forms, but I can only find them in the USA and am thus wondering if there are any Swedish retailers, or maybe another supplier that has the same application method (self-adhesive or iron on with
jon_h: It's enough that you remove what you can, the small strips on the outside of the studs do nothing at all.
Tossegubbe: yes, that's what I was referring to, although it is indeed much more work than welding but can in return make it easier to achieve a nice finish? Good luck!
Sterre: Thank you for your response! Then I'll have to apply filler (with cement-based filler..) where it's worst, otherwise extra adhesive.
somelvis: In that case, try a company that specializes in bruk. e.g., brukspecialisten in Gothenburg. There are surely counterparts in other cities. Regards
jomax: Hello, does anyone know the ridge heights of the following villas? Greenline 744 (trivselhus) Skanör (Eksjöhus)
jon_h: In a bathroom, it is usually a bad idea. You will most likely need a new waterproofing layer, and then the old one has to be removed, you should never have two waterproofing layers enclosing moisture in between. But sure, if you consider a fairly recently done bathroom where you know everything is as it should be, but you don't like the look of the tiles... Then you can tile over.
jon_h: The thing is, it's not really as simple as just about moisture content. You want the concrete to be at least three months old so that it has fully cured and stopped shrinking, typically. Regarding just the moisture, your slab is probably fairly dried out (around RH 90%) after about four to six weeks. But if I were you, I would talk to Kiilto, I know they have an additive that you can mix into