Building Materials and Construction Technology
danieldanieldaniel: approximate price 3 m x 2.4 m high 25 m 45x70 200 kr 7 sqm insulation 200 kr 6 pcs plasterboard 450 kr nails+screws 100 kr door 1.000 kr mouldings 200 kr total material 2.150 kr work if material is on site approx. 4 hours
Mats: I haven't thought too deeply about it, but if you reinforce the backside with, for example, a standing recessed 2X6 directly under the top plate, it should be fairly rigid. Especially if you make the posts from, for example, 2 nailed together 45X95.
NiclasR: Yes, then maybe you should place a strip under the inner wall. What is this type of strip usually called? Then I can check if the building supplier has any in stock and what it costs.
jon_h: Now we are far outside my expertise, but it is indeed possible to connect in places other than in shoes. I just meant that if you want to connect in a shoe (for example, right at the branch of a vertical stem), you must not damage the shoe. You might want to throw the other questions into the plumbing section of the forum.
lompolo: How do you actually best dry a stick-built construction in the winter? I ask this because our builder is using a method that has had mixed success (according to a previous thread). The frame was erected in October, and with the weather we've had, there was a need to dry the frame before sealing it with plastic. To do this, all the insulation has been installed in the walls without sealing it with
EmMi: Unfortunately, the situation today doesn't look like we'll have a basement, so we probably can't allocate a whole room for this. Hopefully, it can be solved in some way anyway... But it might not be so bad, feels pretty hi-tech! I've read about someone who could even control lawn watering via the computer... but it's probably not for us ordinary "svenssons"...
NiclasR: When I screwed chipboards on the floor, I followed Byggelit's installation info that I found on their website. I think you can find information for walls and ceilings there as well. http://www.byggelit.se
hempularen: If you speak nicely to a local stone company, I think you can get it done for a hundred or two for the coffee fund.
Mats: Yes, it is. In the end, it's about remembering who the customer is. If I'm not allowed to buy good timber there, I won't shop there at all. The risk that company takes is that they might run out of customers, plain and simple.
David: Hello, Does anyone know where to buy a horizontally rollable sunblind in wooden trellis? The kind you roll up in front of a window. Best regards, David
snuttjulle: There is some difference in the combustion that occurs when you burn in a stove/in a heap or when they burn at waste stations. There they have meters and can control the combustion to make it as efficient as possible.
Mats: Saturnus2: There isn't any lumberyard around here that delivers anything other than descending lengths from 5.60 and downward, so that should probably be considered completely normal.
Tossegubbe: Just make sure to get an age-resistant one, I've seen a variant that is a bit thinner and not UV-blocked (age-resistant).
Tossegubbe: Epoxy filler with various additives has even better properties but can sometimes be a bit difficult to obtain over the counter. Check with West system..
Tossegubbe: Well, it's not that the building construction itself is no longer viable, as properly made concrete only gets stronger over the years if protected. However, it's considered not economically sustainable for a company to perform the extensive renovations required after 50 years, such as roof replacement, plumbing replacement, heating/ventilation, electricity, wet areas, windows, and potentially
zankan: just a nice little vot... But that wasn't the question:-)
Tossegubbe: JA flooring chipboard should have a higher density than "regular" chipboard, but this is not the whole truth as there are several different qualities of both flooring chipboard and regular chipboard. For example, there is moisture-resistant (green), regular (white), fire-rated (red) and several other special variants like tongue-and-groove OSB (common in the USA), tongue-and-groove plywood
Tossegubbe: My experience is that you can't bring enough heavy items like tiles, parquet, etc., in a passenger car with a trailer to make any real profit after accounting for travel, accommodation, food, etc. However, it's different with certain lighter items. Another important factor is quality! I can confidently swear that the Russian/Polish insulation, for example, does NOT provide the same insulation
Jef: Time to start project persuade my partner that it should be painted on the walls and nothing more. Thanks for the help!
jon_h: [citat] Hydraulic lime mortar has the property that it can set even underwater.
BlackDragon: I've posted a thread in the building conservation department without getting a response, but now I've discovered that this is probably the right place to post my question. I'm about to re-mortar and re-plaster the chimney (inside the house). I'm just wondering if it's safe to go ahead and knock off plaster and mortar (2 cm between the stones as I've read one should do) around the whole piece at
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=57627/0]Windows & doors[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Mats: You have seen the plinths that have grooves milled for the heating pipes/hoses The alternative is to make your own, but it can easily end up being somewhat thicker.
Jobo2948: Many thanks for the concrete answers Jon. My wallet and I now sleep more peacefully :)
Milkshaken: why not screw or nail an extra layer of drywall on top of the existing one??? I don't see any issues with drywall, if you have one layer, yes, there's an issue with sturdiness, but two layers... No problem... There are RAWLNUTs available for purchase at building supply/hardware stores... they are extremely good for securing items to walls, even heavy constructions. They are also waterproof, which
Milkshaken: PL 400 is intended to remedy this. It can also be used to glue porous materials. But follow the instructions provided....
yens: No, how cowardly... ;) Of course, I will do it!! But my experience is that the better prepared you are, the better the end result will be, + the likelihood of being ripped off with a bunch of consulting hours is less...
danieldanieldaniel: Our entire basement is below ground which we re-drained and put Platon mat on, etc., 6 years ago. I only plastered an interior wall that was very uneven, otherwise I tiled directly onto the old plaster after I primed it. Sealed the walls by the shower, bath, and the entire floor.
Lassie: Ppalm: Thanks for the answer. I thought there shouldn't be much higher moisture load in the adjacent room after the renovation since the waterproofing was intact before. EPSCement is the cement with styrofoam balls, meaning if so, I worked summer jobs mixing that at a factory 20 years ago. Talk about causing a snowstorm in July when I misjudged the amount of styrofoam balls by a few bags that