Building Materials and Construction Technology
helenah2: We had a wall that consisted (in addition to plaster on the surfaces) of a layer of thick upright boards that were tongue-and-groove and a layer of horizontal boards. I don't know much about dimensions but let's say the upright ones were about 10x15 cm. When they were taken down, it looked like in your pictures. We thought it was load-bearing and hired a construction company to take it down and
pixel: Interesting thoughts! The plasterboards that are screwed in are uncut new boards. This means that the beveling extends about 45 mm before the plaster reaches full thickness. Maybe a little unclear in the picture. How does filling with latex joint compound work there? It's quite a large volume with 2.50 to the ceiling times 8 corners.
synpunkter: EPS has approximately the same insulation value as 50% of regular foam, with the difference that you avoid thermal bridges with EPS (no joints between sheets, etc.). In any case, 5 cm of EPS is equivalent to about 2.5 cm of foam. It's not much, possibly better than nothing though.
NiclasR: We have just installed our staircase with great results. After much head-scratching, we ended up with an L-shaped staircase with a width of 900mm and a length of 1050 + 3400mm. The floor-to-floor height is ~2750mm distributed over 15 step heights. Just as smil describes, we've recalculated many times to ensure you don't hit your head on the lower floor's ceiling. In our case, with a staircase
Krumeluren: Thanks for many great tips! We're probably leaning towards continuing with spiking...
s60: I have heard that such roofs are incredibly flammable... But usually, they are really nice you don’t see any spckelskarvar, etc.. But I would have changed the roof because of the fire risk...
chris47: What foundation do you have? Is the house extended or does it have the same foundation under the entire structure? Rent a construction laser (rotary) and check where the settlements are exactly. What do you mean by the floor starting to sag? /CC
Consensus: It is very common for veneered plywood to warp if there is veneer only on one side. It may seem unnecessary to buy double-sided teak plywood, but it often prevents warped wood!
trojlee: became dowel...:)....seems to work then..... / M
ByggPutte: By the walls, it should be possible to tear down some of the existing floor and then fix the wall down to the concrete and then tear a little more, and so on. So you don't do everything at once. I believe that if you get a fairly level floor with the leveling, the bounce won't be so noticeable. Best regards, Putte
johnnyz: Have seen a variant on "bjälkar" that was made of styrofoam and should be able to slide over an exposed roof truss. They look extremely realistic, check with some building supply store, they surely know where you can get them.
danieldanieldaniel: There is a scraper for grout available to buy, or you can get a Fein Multimaster and the job is soooo easily done :-)
pernitta: Hello! Ask a flooring company for repair planks for parquet floors. Approximate dimensions are l x w x h = 350 x 70 x 4 mm approximately. With these, you can cover the stairs. Naturally requires good craftsmanship and a sharp saw. A bench over 3 m long in our kitchen was perceived as boring a few years ago. It was then covered with the aforementioned type of plank in oak. After sanding and
ylven: If you are going to have tiles on the walls, you should not have an air gap behind them. Instead, you should place the tiles directly on the wall, without sealant paint or sealing layer behind. Moisture barrier should only be in places like a shower corner in a basement.
thomasd79: The bathtub has five legs, most of them end up right over a joist.
s60: [citat] cc 30 is probably not entirely wrong... if you use 2 layers you can space it wider.. I've also installed perforated gypsum where it had to be cc60... but then you had to have T-splines in the joints..
Gnompf: [citat] Depends a bit on the size and slope of the roof, I would say. If you want to be sure, attach the 95 battens with angles. First layer of battens c/c 1200 (less work) and the second layer c/c 600 if you are going to have boards on the ceiling; if paneling, c/c 1200 is enough. Pinch in the plastic sheet under layer 2 so you don't have to make holes in it for the electrical installations.
AndersS: It will work with 10-12mm as you have full studs both at the front and back. Based on byggmax prices approximately 75:- per sheet (1200*2500) and if you buy their ready-made shelves, white 18mm, about 220:- (2 pcs, 600*2480).
HenkeBoy: [citat] Luckily, I have a kind dad who has been a licensed welder for over 30 years... ;) But then I should stop considering using wood in the construction... a shame! BB_King: Unfortunately, there aren't many scrap firms around here in Örnsköldsvik...
jon_h: [citat] You're completely right. But the wood panels often have additional formaldehyde added in the gluing process, so they emit a little bit more. However, as long as it's below the limit values, I wouldn't consider the amount of formaldehyde when choosing wall material.
Strixx: I have also questioned that chip box. But after an explanation, I understand. It is a way to eliminate the keel bridge that the floor would otherwise create, not floor draft. The choice of chips as insulation is because it should act as a moisture buffer in unfavorable conditions. I am inclined to actually build it.
Anonymiserad 23608: Here for example: http://www.pondussnickeri.a.se/
Alfons_Helikopter: MDF is an excellent material for using biscuit joinery. If you need to screw into it, careful pre-drilling is required because otherwise, MDF tends to split along its length. If you want something with a lacquer finish, the easiest way is to find a company willing to lacquer it, and there are more such companies than you might think. Ask around and read signs; if they can lacquer cabinet doors,
Pellesyd: Gypsum plaster instead of render then?? Mmm, what I need to fix is so little that it’s hardly a problem. The construction is moving forward anyway - I think. I'm going to plaster 60 m2 of ceiling this weekend, so I definitely don't have any leisure problems... ;-))
josa: [citat] http://www.norgips.se/projektering/travstomme some help regarding fire ratings
josa: use a circular saw or rip saw with a fence to get straight cuts, then just glue and nail with a nail gun, putty and paint. it will hold up excellently. a suitable thickness for mdf is about 10-15mm.
Ice: With a router, you can dovetail quite easily. There is a template to which the pieces are clamped, and the offset is fixed on the template. Then you mill according to the template, like combs, completely perfectly and easily.
johan77: [citat] Buy from a sawmill. The prices there aren't so bad. Then you have to dry the wood before planing/jointing it. Woodworking shops usually aren't keen on selling pre-planed planks -- it's quite a lot of work but not much added value. For my stereo bench project, I bought an oak countertop at Bauhaus. They are quite cheap, but it's a pity with finger-jointed boards.
d-sajn: The point is that I had made turns (cut the planks to /||\\) according to uponor's measurements, but they simply cut this off to save time.