Building Materials and Construction Technology
pinebar: Hmmm.... If the original standard was Tretex, then the wall was hardly framed with cc60? In that case, it was probably a solid wood wall I guess. Replacing a solid wood wall with modern standards to "original" condition is, at least in my world, not just drywall on cc60. In that situation, it should be obvious to have OSB behind. Otherwise, the new wall will have a completely different function
AndersS: Yep, have bought it at places like BeijerBygg and also at OBS when there was a panic on a Sunday. Stick masking tape over the tile where you're cutting to make it easy to draw and as extra protection, and use the plastic foot on the saw, along with low speed. I think it should work if the tiles are of normal hardness.
alacs: Need to seal a wall in our summer cottage, log, preferably from the outside (the reason can be read about here http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=16643/0 ): about 7*3 m wall it concerns. Tips on how I can seal it the easiest way? /alacs
ByggaNytt: Just post in one thread, it gets a bit confusing otherwise ::) http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=23327
MrMagic: Or just use a Molly anchor. Works on all board materials including particleboard and OSB.
MrMagic: It feels completely unnecessary to put boards on aerated concrete walls. Part of the idea with aerated concrete is ONE homogenous material. No problems with moisture, etc. Just spackle and weave/wallpaper. Where you hang lighter things (e.g. paintings, small mirrors, etc.), a regular old-fashioned X-hook works very well. Heavier items naturally require a suitable plug, but those are available! I
Larsa: Place a post between the floor and ceiling at the far end of the wall, then you'll have a stable wall. Then it's probably enough with a screw in the floor, right by the post, to have a stable construction.
Johannes_o_Marlene: Fun!!! Do you have any pictures? How long did it take to make all the staketspjälorna?
ByggaNytt: Same as above + a bit of silicone/latex in the joint and it will be perfect :)
Farzan: Both 3 and 5 mm masonite are usually available at hardware stores. If flexibility is important, then 3 mm is probably what you should go for, Calle.
ylven: I wouldn't have worried either, but I think you can well ask why they have done so!
JonasHolm: Let's see if I might scrap the idea of using plastic between the blåbetong and OSB/drywall... Might cost more in labor and money than it's worth... :-/ /Jonas
Mats: Unfortunately, still just as bad an idea. The plastic would only trap any moisture and speed up the process.
Fein: I split some 45*225 to 45*195 last weekend with the ts55. It's not super fast but it works. I used the included 48 tooth blade. If you look on the inside of the lid in the systainer, there are pictures of different accessories including a coarse blade intended for ripping (if I remember correctly) :)
hempularen: As I interpret your question, it's about whether you need to fill the short joints, the ones that do not have a filler groove. The reinforcement fabric is not intended to replace joint filling. According to the gypsum manufacturers (and more professional paint stores), the joints should be reinforced with a paper tape that is embedded in joint compound. The paper tape is significantly more
aka: Now I've had a chance to look a little closer on one side. Anyway, no visible stains or moisture on the wood. But could it be that the lecablock (which has plaster on the outside) is so "ventilated"? They are grooved on the top? It's not particularly dry outside the foundation on that side either. The ventilation seems good anyway. I have no great desire to start tearing this apart... :'(
kalle58: I am building a table with an extension leaf that can be added when needed. Attached is a picture showing what it looks like. It is essentially a table on a bar leg with the left side attached to the wall. The table is made of a countertop measuring 1100x750x28 + 500x750x28 as an extension part. The hardware I am considering is made of iron and measures 18x64mm. Can this construction hold? Or do
Norrbottens: I am planning to install an I-beam under the ceiling (on the lower floor) to raise the load-bearing layer by 30-40 mm. It is weak in the middle of the future floor, the span is 6.5 m on the load-bearing layer and 800 mm between the joists. The beam will be placed in the middle between the joists, i.e., 3.25 m on each side. This is a log house with two load-bearing walls plus a core wall, typical
yens: I am about to make quite substantial changes to the floor plan in the newly purchased house. In the picture below, I show three walls I want to remove, as well as a substantial section of the beam structure to build a staircase to the upper floor. The three sections that need to be removed (310+225+140 cm) are, of course, part of load-bearing walls. The walls are the same as the other interior
MathiasS: [citat] Indeed, things that aren't supposed to work often do work anyway. When I renovated the basement here, some walls were framed directly on the slab. The bottom plate of the wall was even cast into the concrete for some reason. There's probably no one who can explain why that bottom plate wasn't completely rotted away despite quite a bit of moisture coming up through the slab. Wigert - place
danielo: Hello again and thank you for your feedback! I wasn't very precise in my measurements. Some more exact measurements are 1 meter on one side of the center of gravity and 0.5 meter on the other side. So the beam will be a total of 1.5 meters. One thought I had was that perhaps you notice how heavy the weight is from the truss when setting up the supports. Grateful for all your feedback! Daniel
alex25: I wrote earlier that there was a bang on the floor after replacing the load-bearing wall with a glulam beam, now there was another bang when a friend jumped upstairs! Talked to the carpenter who helped me, he would come and try to "lift" the upper floor with a jack since the moldings are about 8mm above the floor upstairs after the replacement, wondering if I should leave it be or if I should try
vasy: Hello Attached is a little sketch, and I'm wondering what it would cost if someone else did it. I was going to do it myself, but it just never happens. The walls are gypsum and steel studs. I want to change them to be built with wooden studs. I also want to reinforce behind the TV so that there's a sturdy stud to attach the wall mount to. It's not a super detailed sketch, but at least it gives an
somelvis: And if you choose drywall, you can easily attach the boards with regular tile adhesive and nail plugs. Drill 5m for a 6mm nail plug and it will hold firmly. You can remove the screws two days later; they are only used to fix the board until the adhesive has fully cured. No gaps and studs, just smack on. Regards
Peppes_Bodega: Thanks for the help! The builder: Your last option seems easiest for me. The existing beam line is indeed bolted with 2 pcs. M12 bolts/threaded rod that go through the post, but I understand now what you mean. So, remove the height of the beam line on the right post. Place a shorter beam that in turn is joined with the existing + the new (2 meters) beam line? Thought of something. Shouldn't one
s60: There are gypsum boards that are suitable for this... I think they are 6mm, then you moisten the paper on the gypsum with water so it usually allows you to bend the gypsum quite a bit:) good luck... [citat]
fridde: Hi, I have a 1950s house with lightweight concrete walls. I am now considering tearing down a number of these, and naturally, some of them are load-bearing. Don't worry - I plan to seek help from a structural engineer, but I'm curious about what effect this will have on my other projects in the house. When making a beam calculation with a steel beam, how is it anchored to the floor? Should it be
fridde: Hi, I bought a 1950s house with a raised floor. Now it seems to be completely fine according to Anticimex, but there's a part of the house with plastic flooring directly on the concrete floor. The natural reaction, I think, is to install a leveling floor there to avoid potential problems. Does anyone have any other suggestions? For those of you who have installed leveling floors, what did you pay