Building Materials and Construction Technology
Savoy: I am completely inexperienced when it comes to plasterboard... Quick background to my problem: I am going to install my garage doors now. The walls are made of concrete and foam plastic (Sundolitt KUB). For fire safety reasons, I need to be careful to plaster all the walls. This includes the inside of the wall where I will install my garage door. This means the plasterboard will end on the
zachris: [citat] I'm not quite following what you meant by "cast all the way to the wall's surface dimensions." Would you mind explaining a bit more or maybe attaching a sketch?
Kalle S: Great, thanks for the help, I've done some house fixing and then I'll probably try to have the microlit's seam 2-3 cm down the wall. I think it will be great. Thanks for the tips and ideas!! Best regards, Kalle
AndersS: Will the sides be visible? If not, cut down a Lack shelf on one side by 10cm, making it 1m, but you will probably need to add some stabilization where you cut off the end because of the box principle. If it is visible, you can cut off a bit extra and then put back the outermost part on the shelf, but it will be a bit tricky since it's built like a box. But it is doable.
JPW: I have no idea about furniture-dry wood. If it's hardwood you're having trouble finding at all, check with Mats Johansson (0435-53257). He has a lot of odd inventory in stock, but I think only lumber yard dry.
Martin_Blomberg: Recommend reading through this thread: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40336-att-handla-i-estland-polen-och-tyskland.html
sennen: An article in Aftonbladet today, about a woman who inhaled fibers from her father's overalls... Sure, it might not be applicable to the question in the thread, perhaps, but still... Aftonbladet: Pappas kramar blir Debbies död
Holger_Olofsson: Hi Daniel! I think you need to write a clearer headline for people to check out your question. A tip!
Holger_Olofsson: I had the same "problem". I simply put together a box without a lid. Instead, I sawed a hole for the electric meter and let the outer part stick out. I then painted the box in the same color as the wall. The entire contraption almost completely "disappeared" from the face of the earth. :) If you need to access the central, you simply lift off the box since it's just slipped over the central.
Toy: We will have a 5.6 meter span with 45*300 kertobalkar at cc40 and glued 22mm floor chipboard to prevent any deflection. This has been calculated by the house manufacturer. Best regards, Tommy
Marta: Hello, I first posted this question in Flooring, but realize it might fit better here. We are renovating the apartment. The project has just begun. There will be a new kitchen and new flooring in the hall and kitchen. To the possibility/problem. After tearing up the old laminate floor and old carpet, we found that the concrete floor is anything but even. The unevenness is partly due to old
Fredrik.engdahl: I believe there is fire-resistant plasterboard that is 9mm thick.
Nine: We have an older house built in 1909 and would like to enclose our entrance veranda. The veranda is currently built over a crawl space with only joists and a wooden floor, which leads to moisture entering the foundation from snow and rain. Additionally, the floor structure itself does not fare well with this. Now, to my need for help: I would like a brief description of what layers (boards,
jon_h: Yes, you can always use thick plaster instead, on for example träullit. I think you might be able to use it on cellplast as well. Thick plaster is more durable.
clabbe45: [citat] Thanks for the info (Danish keyboard hence the strange letters)! Since nothing is built yet, I imagine that if the edges are insulated 10 cm out + plaster, then the insulation itself should also be extended outward when the walls are built so that it harmonizes and the panel ends up outside the insulated edge. Does anyone have a good suggestion on which insulation material (brand,
Alsti18: If you have a 35-degree roof slope - which molding is best for this in a sloped ceiling; swan neck type moldings or coved type - or is there not much difference? How have all of you done with 34-35 degree roof slopes? I've seen that there are ready-made 135 degree moldings - but that should be worse, right?
ByggPutte: Can't find info about bemix3? It usually says on the bag or info sheet how thick you need to lay it. There was some information on finja.se. Best regards, Putte
ByggPutte: I have had them mounted for a long time now ;). But no paint in place. I was going to have them painted by the painter at work but there would be transport problems. So I bought paint from him and will paint them myself ;). The reason I haven't finished them is because I am going to change the lighting inside. I didn't think it turned out well with spotlights inside, and I'm considering switching
zachris: [citat] The issue, as I understood it, had to do with drainage and the like, but on Villa F, I think you can glimpse a pipe at the base of the railing, roughly in the middle. Maybe they let water drain out there? Regarding light entry, it's obviously a point - perhaps it would simply feel too dark if you do that?
fredwel: Spraying seemed like a good idea. A spray bottle might work, it doesn't need to be especially precise. (I'm brainstorming freely now) Having black paint I think would be a bit too dark, I would go for something medium-dark brown. /Fredrik
Videonisse: Had a chat with both the carpenter I will hire and a supplier of steel profiles (Knauf Danogips) and found out that it will be OK to use 45 mm studs with cc30 for building up the ceiling. The reason is that I unfortunately messed up and gave the wrong width for the room above, it's not 2990 but only 2290... :o The advice, however, is that I also put a 25 mm secondary profile (hat profile) in the
fridde: Hi, I want to create two openings (with relatively low building height) in load-bearing exterior walls and realize that I need someone who can calculate this and deliver technical drawings of the construction. Anyone have a good recommendation for a person/company that does this? Regards, /Magnus
Watchmen: Autosol is a damn chore. If it's rough, start by sanding it down with fine sandpaper. After that, use coarse polishing compound with a buffing pad, then move on to the fine wax (use different buffing pads for the waxes). Then you'll have a perfect surface.
MathiasS: [citat] I would pre-drill 10cm with a wood drill to countersink the screw and then screw into the standing studs. The horizontal studs will also be supported by the layers inside that stand on the floor.
Alko: What's all this talk about 50-60mm or 100mm air gap? 20W spotlights under kitchen cabinets are usually installed with about a 5 mm gap up to the cabinet, right? /A
bonnier: [citat] Could you elaborate a bit on this? Surely it's not bad to install a vapor barrier even if he doesn't address the floor joist as well? Especially if he is also adding regular insulation to the wall.