Building Materials and Construction Technology
Hasset: I am building a winter garden where I will have a 6-meter window section. The two outer sections are fixed while the two in the middle can slide. According to the manufacturer of the sliding doors, the glass sections must not be loaded with any weight. My idea is to reinforce the fixed frame with a steel beam of type VKR (rectangular profile). The question is what size is required? I have made a
Ahlbom: With 10" timber, you probably won't need insulation, I believe. The tricky part is with electricity; if you want recessed wiring, a 45mm insulation might be necessary anyway. We are in the process of renovating a timber house ourselves and have chosen to put up drywall and then external electrical wiring. And next year, we plan to add additional insulation. But we only have 7" timber in the house.
jon_h: No, it's not that serious. The moisture in the air is largely ventilated out, and a small part condenses on the walls to quickly evaporate and be ventilated out. It is extremely small amounts that can diffuse into the walls if the ventilation is working. This is shown empirically in all the bathrooms I've torn down that lacked any form of moisture barrier other than in the direct wet zones, where
jon_h: No, I think that lime plaster is too weak for cement-based wall putty.
coss: :) understand what you mean...ignore it for now. but I need to put up a new barrier because there are some holes and more will appear when electrical sockets and pipes are installed. thnx Fredrik :)
Mikael_L: [citat] That feels like a good product development, strange that no one thought of it years ago.
Tornhill: As others have written, it is probably lime plaster you have found behind the wallpaper. To remove it, a chisel is needed; the last grains can be taken off by brushing hydrochloric (or was it sulfuric) acid on the wall. / Fredrik
dalle: For me, it has worked well to first drill/saw halfway from one direction and then the other half from the other direction (the center drill hole guides the whole thing). I don't really know why, but maybe the friction from the sides affected it quite a bit.
MathiasS: [citat] and by overlapping, you mean removing a couple of cm of the existing gypsum (around the door opening) I assume?
jon_h: No, just over 200 tons per square meter (closer to 204 tons).
snysop: I have plans to build a small porch outside the laundry room on our upcoming SMV Nybro house. Neither my husband nor I have any experience in "building from scratch" and wonder if there is a description somewhere? We will have a carpenter to help, but I still want to read up beforehand so I have some understanding myself too... ;) The foundation is an insulated pier foundation and the "roof" will
P-plats: If you live in Gothenburg, you have Högsbo Järn & Metall (HJM) out in the Åbro industrial area... http://www.hjm.se
Mats: As a newcomer, you should behave politely if you expect answers to your questions in the future. Best regards, Mats Moderator
wisser: I'm still going to install a radio-controlled system. In some places, I already have a double switch and need four. I just need to install switches, the lamp turns on/off with the radio.
Zekevarg: In the middle of a "total makeover" of the house. A large spacious kitchen is taking shape in the living room, but I'm thinking about the heat from the chimney. In the middle of one wall, a wood-burning kitchen stove will be placed with a range hood, but I would need to use the chimney's "wings" to hang some overhead cabinets. What is needed for that to work?? Minerit board to insulate from any
gromit42x: Edge mounting is not a problem for me since I have a layer of OSB underneath. I will gladly place the joints between the studs. Thank you for the advice. -h
snickarboden: It does no good if it only exists in the ceiling without possibly causing greater moisture movement in the walls. I would have removed it completely, especially with the insulation that you have. /Kent
Mimmi Pigg: We are planning to build a garage that will be partially underground, about 2 meters below ground at the back. The section that will be underground will be built with lecablock, and we are considering the rest. Does anyone have any idea about the price difference of building the entire ground floor (7*9 m with 2.5 m interior ceiling height) with lecablock versus only building the parts of the
slipperman: I am not planning to have tiles on the floor but rather wooden flooring on the second floor of a small storage building that I am renovating. With a span of 528 cm, I am using I-beams 140x70 cc60 with good results. I first tried with 120 mm height, but it was too bouncy. The 140-beams turned out perfect. On the top flange, I drill and attach a 45x70 to which I can then screw the floor. However,
jon_h: No, when you use linoljebränner, it is usually for iron details that are meant to be outdoors. I would guess that the linolja would burn off quite quickly if you used it on a stove. I would also go with spissvärta.
Starfighter: Has been up before: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/altan-uteplats/7528-var-hittar-jag-bestaemmelser-foer-balkongraecken.html
jon_h: I'm responding to the leveling compound question. Yep, it's definitely easiest to use leveling compound. Ardex K14 is easy to work with and flows well, suitable for leveling and if you don't need to apply more than 10 mm.
laxon: Many will probably say different things, but as we have done at work for many years, here is an example... As I understand it, you should insulate the knee wall (not the sloped ceiling all the way to the eaves) but just the sloped ceiling to the knee wall and then vertically down... There are several ways, the best I think is to insulate backwards towards the outer wall so you don't lose space
Camilla_joh: We are considering the same thing, have you received any good tips? Are you planning to build the entire long side straight or gradually let it go down to ground level?
votum: 6 x 6. I will wait for the fix on the wall to harden so that I can take the grout lines and continue...
snickarboden: Why? You do have boards on the corners, right? Additionally, nails hold very poorly in end grain. /Kent
hagge: Hello, the entire felt fabric is leaking like a sieve. If you hold up a piece against the light, you can see lots of tiny holes like pin pricks. Plus long tears, similar to when a stitch runs on women's nylon stockings. So now the raw wood is starting to mold both on the top and bottom, and there are large damp spots on both the outside and inside. So it's just a matter of tearing everything down
GR_B: What size I or H beam is needed when I'm replacing the garage roof 5 meters? It will be 5 trusses that the beam needs to support. Metal roof, plastic as a ceiling, so the structure that the beam needs to support is light. I found an H beam that was 100 x 100 x 5 mm. I also found an I beam that was 200 x 100 x something. However, I think it's too large. Does anyone know how thick a beam is needed?