Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mats: This concerns more construction technology so we move there
StaffanH: Hello I am renovating the laundry room in the basement of my house from 1970. The walls are made of lightweight concrete + plaster. It is half-tiled today, and I will be placing new tiles where the existing ones are. When I knocked off the previous tiles, a lot of the plaster, almost 1 sqm, came off in one place on one of the walls (an interior wall). How should I repair this before placing new
Mats: 2 meters height is pretty impressive for an L-support, so it's almost time for an engineer to calculate the whole thing.
sigpl: OSB is a wood fiber board, kind of like particleboard but with planer shavings. You get slightly worse insulation where the stud is, but it is 45mm wide compared to the foam plastic's 600mm, so it almost doesn't matter. If you want to go all out, you can have one vertical layer and one horizontal layer. Tretex is said to insulate fairly well, what I didn't like was enclosing it between two vapor
yens: It doesn't sound like much at all, just as I guessed, it's mostly the sparse panel I'm unsure about, I've built a good number of interior walls with studs and drywall, but I'll try to read up on a bit more info, now I have a good foundation, thanks!
rug: Should one build with lekablock against the slope then? Is it enough with a mat against the slope, or should the entire built part be plastered? /Calle
Tornhill: If it's a typical, old-fashioned, tiled stove, it might be difficult (or impossible) to remove and reattach two tiles in the middle. Where is the damper located? Near the top? Then the best approach might be to remove everything above, clean, and then replace it. To loosen the tiles on an old stove built in the traditional way, wet a towel and place it on top. The next day, the clay in the upper
patrikrask: Hi, I am planning to build a sunroom with a balcony above. I want the roof to be as flat as possible and I'm wondering about the dimensions and how to design the glulam construction for a sleek yet stable frame. Can I, for example, "embed" the roof joists in the front/back beams? I was planning to have a metal roof. The snow zone is Stockholm. I plan to have sliding doors on one side (C).
H_L: Went and picked up 2 such sheets/flashing for my two attic windows of the half-moon type. The windows are quite large (12 x 6) so it might be comparable to your roof. The sheet metal worker needed 1 day and I provided the frame as a template. I had to shell out 750 kr (!!) each for them. It felt expensive, but I needed them. It might be good to keep in mind that it can cost quite a bit.
klaskarlsson: This is how my house is constructed Outer panel, air gap, wind barrier, insulation, inner wall (type chipboard/plasterboard) /K
klaskarlsson: [citat] Maybe you can build your own power columns out of, for example, wood, painted conduit pipes, or something? As mentioned, ready-made ones can be quite expensive. Gluing walls to click-flooring might actually be worse than screws: - You cannot easily detach them if you use a glue strong enough to hold initially, i.e., You also risk glue marks on the floor. - The "floating" of the floor is
naresjo: Andersmc: it's of the type "plank with screws right through" klaskarlsson: funny guy hehehe, lucky me I don't have a supervisor at my job... and if I had one and it was loose, maybe it's a different forum :D
klaskarlsson: It is commonly said that houses constructed in the 1940s to 70s (around 1940 - 1975) may have radon-containing lightweight concrete. However, the levels and any health risks depend on many factors. There is no total ban, but there are guidelines regarding radioactivity limits for new constructions from the late 70s. The concrete is not "radon-irradiated" - rather, it is made from shale containing
NiclasR: I have now fixed my molly plug hole. Here's how I did it: I pushed the collapsed molly plug into the wall and filed the hole slightly conically on the backside. I mixed house fix and put some in a regular freezer bag. I cut off one of the corners of the bag and used it as a piping bag. I piped plenty of house fix around inside the hole as far back as I could reach and filled it up until the
aggen: Thanks for the long answer :) I would probably want to have the outer inner walls installed to save time and be able to start up some elements. I can install the inner ceiling myself. But the question is about electricity, maybe it can't be combined, if the wiring is in the ceiling, can it be routed down into the inner walls? Are we talking about the sill for the outer wall or also the inner
jpettersson: Hi, I am planning to widen a balcony door (from 60 cm to 250 cm) and need to support 2 rafters with a beam (see image). I would like some help from you knowledgeable folks who understand dimensioning. How thick does the beam need to be to ensure strength? The material doesn't matter much (steel, laminated timber, regular joists, etc.). I have a tile roof and live in snow zone 1.5. The extension
Mats: The trick I was taught was a regular screw in reverse until the tip goes through the sheet metal, then forward again. It's the screw head that's supposed to hold the paper on the gypsum board in place, and then the paper holds the rest of the gypsum, so to speak, so I haven't seen any problem with that.
quilding: So true. Will probably rivet the electrical boxes for the same reason, so it will probably be necessary to use pop rivets for the studs as well. Not much extra work actually.
Max2: I have modular walls with horizontal studs at c/c 60. As I imagine it, you should be able to mount the boards horizontally, but it certainly feels a bit unusual. I see an advantage with horizontal boards because there aren't as many vertical joints that need support from metal strips or similar. Is there any recommendation/standard/norm that should be followed? Are there any drawbacks with
gynner: We are planning to expand our house next spring/summer. What we are considering is how the foundation should be built? The house is a 1.5-story wooden house with a basement on a slope from 1940. The idea is to extend the house from one gable by 3-4 meters. We have planned to hire an architect to help with the floor plans. Where does one turn to conduct a technical building investigation? We
jakim: It is said to be unhealthy for solar panels to use pressure-treated wood in construction because the treated wood emits "corrosive" vapors that degrade the solar panel. Exactly how and why I do not know, but it might be worth thinking about.
snickarboden: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/inredning/51357-garderob-skjutdoerar.html and http://www.byggahus.se/forum/inredning/51533-var-koepa-skjutdoerrsbeslag-som-rullar-pa-golvet.html /Kent
midvinter: No one knows how to build up the inner wall? It is an uninsulated slab. Is it best to put a spacer between the bottom wooden stud and the outer wall? (Of course, the stud is a few cm up from the concrete floor.)
sulan: hello! I have a garage with a deck on top that I need to renovate. I currently have felt but it leaks into the garage due to a poor solution at the roof ridge. The water follows the wall instead of dripping into the gutter. I'm curious about what solution you have on your roof/floor. regards sulan
Julia06: Hello! I'm planning to build a sloped roof over the deck terrace on the gable end of the house. However, the walls are made of rendered lightweight concrete, and since I tend to over-engineer by nature, I'm planning to attach the beam to the house with threaded rods (10mm) and chemical anchors - spaced at 60 cm centers. The dimensions of the roof will be 7.5 meters wide and 4.3 meters deep. Can I
jonas_b: Thanks for the answers, the search function isn't particularly sharp so the links were welcome. In other words, according to the table it will be a HEA-200. If I understand it correctly, you don't need to fireproof the beam if it's used in a villa. Does anyone know about that maybe?