Building Materials and Construction Technology
jnl: It should be a larger "balja" with some liquid in it, not quite sure what it is, but it has the dimensions 1 by 1 meter and the height 1m, holds about 1 cubic. So you could say about 1.5 tons roughly.
ipppe: there is a klämring there anyway... saw a product list from some company and I have one of those models anyway... :)
Sandberg: [citat] No, if I were buying today, I definitely wouldn't buy a hammer drill. The reason I bought it was because I wanted to drill everywhere and use it as a screwdriver. I thought it was good with a cord so you don't have to charge the battery all the time. But now I noticed that it was useless since it can't drill everywhere, and it's not great as a screwdriver either because the variable speed
mattiasp: According to Fischer's website, which was linked above, they have their own screws for these plugs. I believe that Bauhaus has a large selection of Fischer's products.
Bastefallarn: I have tried both a diamond blade and a combined wood/steel blade for a circular saw, and both worked excellently. The diamond blade provided slightly neater cuts but worked a bit slower. If you use a regular wood blade, it probably shouldn't be too coarse-toothed. Place a coffee filter or nylon stocking or something similar over the motor's air intake to protect it from dust, a shame to ruin a
MrJames: I appreciate your feedback! I will start constructing my extension in about 2 weeks so I have a bit more time to think...
jon_h: Practically yes, regularly no. And the implementations are still a risk point. Therefore, the shavings work just as well behind the plastic as if there were no plastic at all. But it would not work between plastic and waterproofing.
lb_gbg: Yes, I use beslag. I mistakenly used the word konsol. :D They are such that you can attach both a roller blind and a curtain rod to them. I will screw in 3 such beslag into the wall. I want to sincerely thank you for all the smart answers I have received. :)
vojma: I find it hard to believe that it can support anything other than the wallpaper that is on it. However, this is something you should discuss with the association as it is not always allowed to demolish walls in condominiums. Once you have received positive confirmation from them, you can check with the person who built the house regarding the "bearing capacity." /V
andersmc: [citat] Or do you want to make a calculation on a house you plan to build and need help with that?
TorpAnders: [citat] Ok, we'll see..difficult to understand though.. Otherwise one might suspect that it's a sales gimmick that benefits the more expensive board? If not, then they have another product to develop But now it'll be a layer of renovation gypsum instead, because I'm not going to take a chance..
jon_h: [citat] Well, not entirely. The dew point lands where it lands, and it doesn't really matter where it is. The dew point moves further into the wall the colder it is outside, and vice versa. What's important is that moist air doesn't have the opportunity to reach the place where the dew point happens to be at a certain moment, and for that, a tight vapor barrier is required. And I still don't
v-g: Available in most hardware stores and possibly even the local ironmonger.
Avbytaren: Cheapy has mosaic 2x2 cm 79 SEK per sqm, I believe they are available in the colors black, white, and turquoise
snickarboden: Off topic but if you upload images instead of Word documents that are blocked due to virus risk, there is probably hope for more advice. /Kent
m97marro: Epoxy glue type Locktite. They have several that are suitable for stone. Glue and wet sand/polish and it will look nice again.
zolo: Hello I just removed all the plaster from the chimney stack, Was it dusty? Yes Was it hard work? Yes I am now wondering if there is any sealant to make it 100% dust-free in the future that can be applied? I was thinking of a clear primer or similar
Bror: Nicer with a surface that is not as smooth as a sheet metal. If you use filler and paint with a long-haired roller, the surface almost looks plastered.
andersmc: I bought my modular chimney in a complete kit. There was a special rubber membrane that you slipped over the chimney and taped with special tape. Then you taped the edges of the rubber membrane to the vapor barrier.
zachris: Does anyone know if this (900 mm) also applies to the "vault edge railing" on an indoor staircase, that is, the edge of the intermediate floor at the "stairwell." Normally, this railing is designed in the same style as the staircase railing, but are the heights the same?
jon_h: Sure, you can use diffusion plastic behind the boards even in the bathroom. This assumes that the boards are inorganic, and that there is no other organic material between the two dense layers, and that the waterproofing membrane has a vapor resistance of more than one million s/m. If you want to skip the plastic, let it extend a bit behind the boards, maybe 200 mm or so. Thus, there will be no
nattugglan11: Hmm, yes, maybe. I'm the one who wants things to really sit properly without loose parts, but it was a good idea! I was thinking more about the parquet, that it doesn't become "floating" in the same way if I put some screws through. Also, are there other disadvantages if I keep the floor underneath? The advantage of wall-mounting the cabinet is that I avoid damaging the floor in case I need to
zachris: There are blocks that are twice as thick intended for exterior walls. I believe they are around 1.8 instead of 2.7 or something like that, meaning still very poor values compared to exterior walls and windows.
Kurtivan: That's what I did anyway when I bricked up a chimney clean-out door, plus plastered on the outside as well, of course.....
79:an: But if you choose the right timber, it should be possible, for example, there are spruce poles that can be 50-60 years old but only 8 cm at the base, which means they consist only of heartwood. I believe it's called suppressed spruce, difficult to find if you don't know what to look for, it looks like an ordinary small spruce, but they exist among fully grown spruces and have grown just as long
Lindgrenski: [citat] Yes, that's why I'm asking here, if it is necessary or if it is enough to attach to the sills. Now I've done what I've done and so it will be. :)
imported_Byggaren: The important thing when drawing a floor plan is not how thick the exterior walls should be. It can always be adjusted even if they are too thin, unless the maximum building area for the plot determines how large the house can be in building footprint. Normally, you draw with the interior side of the exterior wall in mind. That is, the area inside the exterior wall (=floor area) is of greater
svempur: Hi, what is the bathroom up to now then? Just a little curious, where did you get the best price? Best regards, Svempa
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Since it's a chemical, you can check with the paint store. Otherwise, you should contact a window renovator/manufacturer. _________________ Byggaren