Building Materials and Construction Technology
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Since it's a chemical, you can check with the paint store. Otherwise, you should contact a window renovator/manufacturer. _________________ Byggaren
thoeke: Today I bought at Luddwes Hushållscenter 0455-308990 (appliances store connected to one of the larger chains for appliances) outside Karlskrona one board 100x33x2.5 cm, surely available in other sizes, they can provide info about the Swedish wholesaler, the boards are made in Denmark, the board cost 500 money.
ikaros222: Hello. New to the forum and hoping for some construction help :) The thing is, I am going to lay tiles inside the door. Currently, there is a difference in level compared to the kitchen after tiling and underfloor water heating, so the tiles inside the door will be level with the kitchen. Therefore, the rest of the hallway will be about 25 under the new tiles. I currently have a construction
Kemi: No, I actually haven't even considered it for some reason. I bought a limträbalk yesterday.
Betong: [citat] You can't use the same diameter for the screw as the plug and drill hole since the material in the plug has nowhere to go. 5 mm screw is probably just right. The screw should be long enough to go through the plug. There are special tile drill bits available today that work perfectly for drilling in tiles. If you go to a professional building supplies store, they will help you.
tob_ekl: hello I need to get hold of svällist for door/window. (fire protection). can anyone give tips on where I can get it?
jon_h: I have indeed only checked with Casco and Finja, but neither of them allows you to apply filler thinner than 12 mm when there is a wooden joist, regardless of whether there is floor gypsum underneath. It is possible that there are suppliers who allow thinner application in this case.
MagnarTBL: Hello I have a garage of 15.5 square meters which I plan to convert into an office space. The garage's exterior walls and roof are insulated. Now, the floor remains, which is a 3.26m x 4.76m concrete slab. I did not build the garage myself, so I don't know what's beneath the concrete, but it's probably the ground. The concrete slab is very cold, and I would like to add insulation on top and then
MagnarTBL: I made the partition wall with 60cm between each stud, and it fit well. Both for the size of the drywall and also for the insulation between the studs afterward. I slightly regret not seeing the suggestion with the OSB board before, but it is certainly a good option to have behind the drywall. However, then maybe you wouldn't even need to have the drywall at all? Thanks for all the great
ChungKuo: Hello, I have received a calculation indicating that I should replace a wall with a 405x90x4500 glulam beam. In various threads here on the forum, there's reference to a .pdf document containing a list of steel beam equivalents. In the mentioned list, it states that an IPE200 can be used instead of a 405x90. I would like to do some calculations myself on this, but I quickly realize it's difficult
basil: Well, there you go. The thread below me had basically all the answers..... Sometimes it's worth checking.
brorzan: Thank you so much for the help! I will strike gently with the sledgehammer, and make sure the electricity is turned off, so it should go well! :o) # bror
jon_h: Yep, score it properly and snap over an edge placed just under the score. Hole saws work well.
mjoha222: Hello, I am about to cast a garage slab within the next week, but I can't find a sensible description of how to achieve the slope towards the drains. Can someone help me describe how this should be done to get it right? I am also contemplating the need to "score off" with a plank. That is, to "divide" the surface with, for example, a pipe and use this and the form as a guide to make it flat. I've
-Jack-: hello discovered today that behind a plasterboard I only have a cavity where there should actually be lecablocks. I guess the leca has somehow crumbled. My question now is if there is something that can just be sprayed in through the two holes in the wall to correct this and that is strong enough to support installing a sink. /P
kodapa: Hello I am in the process of building a bathroom on the upper floor of my house (above the bathroom there is an unfinished cold attic). I plan to lower the ceiling by 95 mm to avoid having to build in a beam, plus then I can add some insulation. My considerations are: - I plan to use 45*95 battens on the ceiling (on edge), place insulation in between, cover with plastic, and then put up
zoom: I took regular packing tape and taped between the rafters and then shot some staples with the staple gun to hold them in place.
kaimal: Hello! In our house (built in the '70s), the vapor barrier for the attic space is placed between the ceiling drywall and the furring strips, which is not ideal considering all the screws that have perforated the plastic??? What do you think, should I need to tear down the old ceiling and furring strips and do it the "right" way: vapor barrier against the rafters, furring strips, and drywall?
Kullamannen: Hello You won't completely eliminate the movements but will get rid of the worst by gluing the parquet. I've done it with waterborne underfloor heating. It lies perfectly summer and winter. Kullamannen
Milkshaken: Paint with Hammarlack otherwise... available in such colors now...
Johan Gunverth: My carpenter and KA said that the gypsum should be screwed c/c 400 if you cannot screw into studs, e.g., when horizontal 45-studs + chipboard meet gypsum.
trojlee: That's exactly what I'm thinking, but there must be cheaper ones somewhere:D.......I need a couple of them, in fact... / M
Snailman: Here comes revolutionary information, after realizing that it's extremely common to have the load transfer on the outside, I started thinking about how it works when you're nailing the wall together lying down, well, you lay it on the slab and then raise it outward, if you have the load transfer on the inside you can't nail it from above. so if you're nailing the wall together lying down, it's
tub72: I'm going to build a classic detached garage with an attached carport and storage "inside." The entire building will be 7x9m, but the carport lacks a "whole" outer wall, having only two post foundations. So far so good, but I always like to complicate things a bit, so I'm considering removing one post and having only one in the outer corner. I'm doing this to avoid a too bumpy right side on the
Friskus: Have you checked with e.g. Gyproc, the manufacturer of the plasterboards? They might have some tips.
snuttjulle: I myself have a 120cm that is mounted on just a pressed-down 3" pipe and two braces towards the house wall. Doesn't move in the slightest. In your case, I would also aim to brace with more than just 1 grounding post. Anchor your block into the rock and then make 2 braces diagonally backwards down into the ground.
sirbo: If you're planning to do a lot of building in a short time, I recommend ordering everything from a reputable supplier. You can definitely find the same items at byggmax as you can at, for example, beijer. For my first build, I bought from byggmax and transported everything home myself (I don't know how many weeks I spent on collecting and transporting it all). For my second build, I calculated
gb79: What kind of plaster system should be used for maxit isoleca? 1 single-story residential house with various angles and not too long straight walls. Best regards, Daniel
gb79: Can someone say how many bricks are on a pallet with isoleca, both for 30cm and 35cm thick? And what they weigh each or the whole pallet would be good to know too? Best regards, Daniel