Building Materials and Construction Technology
hedasgatan: Thank you! I found a lot of useful information at Norgips. I'm posting the link here for future reference. http://www.norgips.se/Montering
andybeeee: Wow thanks for all the replies... yeah drywall is an american term.. it is used in the UK but we don't tend to use the "drywall" method of building as much as a lot of our walls are made of brick so are plastered over rather than using plasterboards attached to a wooden or metal frame. Sometimes we use a mixture of both (boards with no tapered edge) that are just screwed to a wall then the
TurboTouring: Welcome to Sweden's jungle of regulations.....I agree!
jon_h: Yes, it would be really stupid if you don't build a tightly ventilated subfloor. I would have laid ceramic.
jon_h: I would have chosen a cement-bound product. Either a plaster mortar or a cement-bound filler. However, check with the supplier first, so you don't get a product that is too strong, as it risks pulling off your current plaster if it is weak.
thomasd79: Yes, I was also thinking of consoles of some kind, or heavy beams, but it's important that there is no movement in the wall so that the joint doesn't crack over time.
perstr: http://www.loovebalkong.se/ Found them by chance and have recommended them to all acquaintances. We have anodized aluminum - completely maintenance-free and really stylish. Professional to deal with, we got all the holes pre-drilled and everything was included, chemical anchors, rivets, washers, bolts, etc. Can highly recommend them.
jon_h: Norwegian, I think. Fibo-Trespo. Search a bit on the forum, it has been discussed a lot. Doesn't seem precisely unquestionably good.
Mats Bengtsson: [citat] I tried it, and it works really well. The only downside is that it's a bit difficult to see if it's good or not until you remove the batten. --- Mats ---
snickar_lasse: Hello! Do the long walls first and all the way up. Either recess a plank in the frame where the joists will come, or nail it outside the studs with 5" nails. The raised wall will be much stronger if they go all the way up; then the joists hold the walls together. Cover the joists with 12mm plywood, where the gable will be, sketch out the roof truss on the boards and mark with a chalk line.
douglas72: Krauta; Hydrochloric acid Nitor special "for lime and rust removal"
Johan Gunverth: Exactly. But new moisture on them triggers the black mold again. The underside of my roof paneling molded a little outdoors 2 weeks after installation. Even then, it hadn't been exposed to moisture at any point. As I understand it, the raw paneling is quickly produced and not dried out. The black mold thrives in the residual moisture. Three years later (and still unpainted), the amount of black
niklas102: Hello, I am wondering if anyone knows how to lay such a floor. What basic conditions must be met, what are the most common pitfalls? Best regards, Niklas
79:an: Otherwise, you could invest in a door like this, fill in with thin insulation panels to dampen sound, and then add a panel on the outside, it shouldn't be too expensive.
Snailman: As I understand it, Salstershus only sells the kit and helps a bit with advice... so builders etc have nothing to do with Salstershus, furthermore, the house seems to be finished and occupied by now.
vojma: Depending on how the room looks, a lot of the "waste" can actually be used above/below windows/doors/stairs/radiators, etc. I had the same problem when I was cladding my house. I needed 2800mm panels so I ordered a package with lengths up to 3300 to minimize waste, but received a "standard package." However, the waste became insignificant once all the windows/doors/gable peaks were covered. /V
vojma: By insulating, you avoid some of the "bongo drum effect" that can occur, but it entirely depends on what you will use the room for. If it's going to be a storage room, I see no reason to insulate it, whereas it might be a good idea if it's a wall for your upcoming home theater. /V
Micke H: you have the solution for the second door. Make a similar block but angled for your wall, then the different profiles will not compete with each other. If you can't manage with the chamfers, it won't be noticeable to anyone but the dog if you just get the right height. Good luck // Micke
jon_h: Then you should have a tätskikt.
bruschke: I sawed down a wall over the weekend that was 2x2.4m. I started with a handsaw which worked pretty well but was still tiring. So I went and bought a concrete blade for the reciprocating saw, and then it took about 30 minutes to split the whole wall into 6 pieces; it went like butter. Have a blade for steel and switch to it if you encounter reinforcement. Then I split them in half again to be able
magnusss: My walls were untreated (extension below ground with Leca) and it was there I was recommended to apply primer/fix/primer/fix and then tiles. I initially applied gypsum plaster which I later had to chip away. To get a smooth wall, I think this description is good http://www.finja.se/aktuell/pdfny/gipsputs_produktfolder.pdf
LinaoMarkus: Partly against window trim and partly as a straight finish. How do you make it look nice?
Mikael_L: What function were the braces at the loft door intended to have in the old design? This lateral stabilization disappears in the new proposal... But it is not certain that there were any direct reasons for the braces either, sometimes things are built in certain ways because "it is supposed to be like that" or for "it looks nice" ... ;)
LUDDET: Now it's that time again. Cabinet door on fixed hinges. I've fixed it several times before. What irritates me is that I don't have an obvious technique that simplifies it all. So it’s about fixed hinges, not the "hang on" type. I remember that I usually screw the hinges into the cabinet and then place the door and draw lines where the hinges go behind the door. No recessing should be done. Does
eldoro: I have inquired and an H-beam 160x160 is apparently good. How do you proceed, can you tear down the wall and then put up the beam with props? Or do you set up the beam first and then tear down? Do you build support for the beam or cut out in the existing wall for it? What works best?
Haegermeister: I will install windows in a basement wall (made of concrete blocks) and will be mounting Leca beams over all the windows. The problem is that the Leca beams end up in the middle of the wall, so I have a problem getting mortar on the top side to attach upwards to the existing wall (making the holes minimally larger than the beam). Question: Is there a good sealant/expansion concrete in a tube that
Porsgata: Hi Kent, Thank you for your reply. After talking with some people, I have come to the same conclusion. I'm putting wind barrier against the planks to eliminate drafts, then gyps directly against it. I assume that vapor barrier/diff barrier is mainly for when insulating with mineral wool/fiberglass, etc.? If I possibly add insulation in the future, it will have to be with eco-fiber or something
