Building Materials and Construction Technology
ipppe: It seems complicated... Now, there's no other water coming down into the floor drain except the water from the machines that goes via pipes directly into the water trap... So the risk of water damage is minimal, but you still want to do it correctly... What can happen if you waterproof an uninsulated slab? I'm not entirely sure if it's insulated or not, the previous owner cast the slab.... But
jakim: Fiber cement might be something :) Gypsum doesn't feel relevant since it would be between double moisture barriers in that case. (Even if it's ventilated) THANK YOU for the tip :) How do I attach that board? I'm using Maxit sanerings fix to mortar, is it suitable for fiber cement as well? And maybe some sealant against the window frame?
zankan: the wall is definitely not load-bearing as I can interpret drawings and images...
Johan 35: Does anyone know the quality of leca blocks from Poland, are they known for making blocks there, anyone know?
Bjarredsbon: ...and then one can add that 6dB is a halving of the sound pressure, but the ear perceives 8-10dB as a halving. Spontaneously, I would have expected more difference than 5dB when adding one more sheet. However, one could read on Gyproc's website what I guessed (but didn't dare to write the first time): Sound insulation is worse with cc30 compared to cc60 for wooden studs.
Bezt: OK. Sounds reasonable, thanks for all the answers.
robban: facing the same task... but haven't mounted the chipboards yet!
jensolof: I am planning to open up a part of the current wall between the kitchen and living room in my ground-floor apartment in a 5-story building (built in the 1920s). The wall is non-load-bearing and consists of dark, porous blocks (slag blocks?) with plaster on the outside. I have spoken with the association, and they suggest I contact an engineer to ensure it's okay, or alternatively get a special
Mats: The wall cast and paneled. It ended up being a total of 24-25 meters of wall. What I did was drill and plug the wall. Then I mounted pressure-treated 28X60 (split 20X120) vertically as the screw battens. Then I took regular 22X95 pressure-treated wood and mounted them horizontally with about a 1 cm gap. Made "covers" in the same way.
hanss0n: Anyone have tips on a constructor in the Malmö region? Please feel free to PM me.
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Yes, it's regular 0.71 mm galvanized sheet metal that is usually painted white or black like a window ledge, but without a wrap on the free edge. They are instead straight cut and have a small flange towards the masonry on the free side and on the side towards the frame a Z-shaped upturn, where the free part is just a couple of millimeters wide to be hammered into the frame wood if
Anonymiserad 23608: [citat] Four by four sounds rough? Wasn't it 45x45? There are special air gap boards made of styrofoam that you can buy. They are much easier to cut and install than battens and masonite. You just attach them to the sheathing with short screws or nails, and only at the ridge do you finish with a strip of masonite on the battens.
fredde_900: I have already picked up 1 layer of floor gypsum... however, I haven't started installing anything yet.. ideally, I would like to place 1 layer of renovation gypsum at the bottom and then the regular floor gypsum so as not to get too high a construction height.. but I'm unsure if the renovation gypsum will hold. However, I'm a bit unsure if there will be too much gypsum between the underfloor
concon: One piece of advice is to check with the fixed point to ensure that the middle hasn't settled, because with concrete, it doesn't shrink significantly. Cracks etc., will occur if the concrete dries too quickly or if the reinforcement is too high. I would almost believe it's the plastic fibers in that case. As you know, it softens with heat and hardens with cold. It's something you shouldn't
Valbobygge: How long should a 12 mm panel and a 28 mm floor dry?
ByggaNytt: Sure, screws are good and they hold better, but nails are more suitable here (especially with a nail gun): * Raising the frame: [bild] * Sheathing + nail papering: [bild] * Sparse roof: [bild] * Plastering (obviously screws): http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/inredning/tak_1.jpg * Panel (both nails/screws): http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/verktyg/bosch.jpg
pbengtsson: Agree, when has a vapor barrier actually become obsolete? Just look around electrical/tele sockets, how many constructions are there where the manufacturers' instructions have not been followed (tape, etc.). The vapor barrier is there to prevent air (vapor) from reaching colder areas and to prevent moisture from condensing inside the wall, but it doesn't happen arbitrarily, it happens where the
TomasB: Yes, I was thinking of sanding the surface so that it still becomes "pleasant"
hempularen: You need to call in a structural engineer. What you are going to do requires a building notification (or maybe even a building permit, uncertain), then you need to be able to present a structural calculation. Even if it's unlikely, you can't categorically say that the wall doesn't take up roof load. What you can get help with in a forum like this is a feasibility analysis, i.e., whether it's even
LEdlund: Thank you for the help! So it's going to be stone wool and then solid doors. I'll promptly head to the link and educate myself a bit more! :)
jon_h: [citat] I am completely open to factual arguments.. :) I could absolutely be completely wrong, and if that's the case, I would just appreciate it being shown to me. But if Peter hasn't gotten the lids on yet, then the windscreen definitely has a waterproofing function, I completely agree with that.
Magnus_78: Thank you! Both solutions definitely sound interesting :)
pinebar: My guess is slag plates. A black, rather porous material with some stone in it, made from slag, and commonly used in houses from the 40s as non-load-bearing partitions. 7 cm thick fits very well for those walls too. They can be worked with an angle grinder, stone drill, and sledgehammer. It gets incredibly dirty, as the dust is black when you demolish them. They are quite heavy as well. Break it
KarroZoo: [citat] Okay. I can understand it in public spaces and if there are children, but otherwise, it feels very "big brother-like." We simply have to stay sober enough not to fall down :-) Although there is a handrail, just not a railing. Will upload a picture soon, don't have access to a computer at home right now because of the move.
