Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jesca_j: The key is to start somewhere, then work from the outer edge towards the center. The wider the chisel, the lesser the risk of damage to the wall behind.
JanMattias: Exactly. I don't really know how serious it is, but the first thing I usually hear when I mention cedar wood is exactly what you quoted. So maybe one should be a bit careful. Great link, thanks for the tip! I haven't been able to reach them, but I'll try again next week. They are clear on the website that they bring in everything available on the market, and they claim to have reasonable prices.
Chinaski: I did as snickar_lasse says and drilled my beam in the flange and secured it with coach screws in the pillar, worked perfectly, it's solid as a rock. A tip is to drill the holes before the beam is lifted, it can be difficult to reach in certain situations otherwise...(I've heard)
Kasch: Sure as h-ll... A bit difficult to click laminate parquet with skirting boards still in place :o Sometimes one can be clueless. Oh well, I'll have to try prying them off carefully then. A multimaster (no Swedish designation yet...) was otherwise the answer to a lot of problems I've had. Thanks for the tips!
jon_h: Yes, that's correct. Possibly, one could have sealed around the well if water will be flushed there.
Johan Gunverth: :) I probably misinterpret your text, but the facts in my post remain the same.
jakim: Hmm, do you think my bruk sack will last until spring? There are maybe 7-800kg left in the bag which is outside on a pallet with plastic over it.
Faidros: [citat] You can insulate the beam like this before you press the boards in place:
snickar_lasse: hello! It's probably possible to get a 120 opening. Is it an inner wall or outer wall and how thick is the wall and is it plastered or drywall? Are there floor cassettes like prefab? It's a bit difficult when you can't see it all.
snickar_lasse: hi! The wall that runs in the same direction as the beams. If there is 555 between the beams, cut noggins with a few mm extra so they fit snugly, stand them on edge, nail with 100 nails at an angle. Place them 45 mm below the top of the beams, place a 45*170 on top or something that suits the intended wall.
Martin_L: Thanks Patte! I have actually started putting up the reglarna (1 week ago) with angles which I bought at Biltema, it's going great. But thanks for the tip anyway.
snickar_lasse: Hi! Install vents in the metal sheet on the outer roof, both at the bottom and the top. This only works if you have tiles on the roof. Feel free to apply asphalt compound on them. If you have a standing seam roof, you’ll need to try to ventilate the front edge in some way. Keep in mind that you need to create wind stops and a net at the front edge, otherwise drifting snow and even rain during a
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Yes, it can be anything with this single data point :rolleyes: My answer was really intended for Tokri who had an existing beam that he was planning to use. Mostly what the beam would withstand in terms of load-bearing capacity. You ask about the dimension for spv. 6.53 m and then what? How large is the load area supposed to be on this beam and how much/sqm? That is, how wide is it across
AndersS: Search for "undertak" and you will get hits on this. There are many different variants and sometimes they are also referred to as acoustic ceilings. I installed Ecophon in our bathroom and it is available as a website on the internet under that name.
ktm250: Google is your friend :) http://www.google.se/search?hl=sv&q=fasadskydd&meta=
RFL: I have an old brick floor in our rough basement. The bricks are laid directly on the gravel and generate some dust. The space is used as a boiler room/storage/workshop. Is there a good method to bind the dust coming from the floor?
chris47: Do you have a fence or just a hedge? If you have a fence, it will carry the post foundation if nothing else, so it's probably not a problem. I don't think you need the wheel specifically because of this, but everything depends on how you construct the gate together with the fence. /CC
Xrobban: Hi! Now it's time to start setting up plastic & battens in the eaves, does anyone have a picture of how to do this in the best way? See picture.. /robert
Cheesus: Problem solved....:) 5 railway rails are so strong that when I drove a 2.5-ton car over them, they didn't flex a mm.... Without support beams...
matknu: Hello, How thin can I cast a concrete slab for a sink countertop or legs for a dining table (see fig)? What reinforcement mesh and any special concrete mix? Maybe high-strength? I've forgotten most of what I learned about concrete in school... can't even find the books... /Mats
Wendigo: Ha-ha, thanks! It was the worst job I think I've ever done. Took three days due to all the brain slips during measuring and framing. There were gremlins in that build, I can promise... but it turned out okay. If anyone has tips on a cover list for the floor that only takes 20mm, I would be forever grateful! :)
Mats: The entire childhood home was built with continuous paneling with cc120. I believe it was about 20 mm thick. I would guess it was 22X120 which was then planed and profiled.
Mats Bengtsson: [citat] The big question isn't whether it's possible to drill a hole in it, that's clearly allowed. The question is whether you still have enough strength and stability left in the beam afterward. What their formula says is that with a 110-millimeter hole in a 260 beam, you lose 16% of the strength and increase deflection by about the same percentage. If the edge of the hole is closer than 260
Haagbard: [citat] Yes, if the layman does it privately for themselves, it's okay, but professional handling is subject to laws.
jon_h: I would guess that it is very similar to Minerit and Masterboard. Minerit already has a sealing layer applied, but otherwise, I would think the materials are similar.