Building Materials and Construction Technology
vojma: There are white shelves 600x2480 at Beijer http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=3081 /V
v-g: If the heat is strong, then styrofoam is not good in any case. It quickly becomes "frönt" and sheds dust. But if you want wool, it still needs to be covered in some way (like plasterboard or similar), so there's work to be done no matter what you do.
Gaude: Well, I've realized it's a huge task, What I'm most afraid of is that there will be settling in the foundation. I thought I would dig outside first. And next to the wall, dig out about 1 meter from the eggs so that I might be able to create a slope of 30 degrees, i.e., about 30 centimeters below the current end of the wall and place the drainage there. After that, perhaps I can cast downwards
Milkshaken: In my opinion, a 10 cm arch isn't something sustainable....... If you are sure that it is concrete, why not make a stronger opening instead??? 2 pieces of 45X95 joined... but only if it is a concrete arch. It's not just about closets.. according to the plans, it looks like there's a wall above.... what happens to that??? Why be stingy...? I'd rather put up more than less is my motto..
Milkshaken: A typical thread where not all the facts emerge immediately... if I had been building new or doing a major renovation... then I would have chosen 2 layers of drywall.... With noggings at appropriate heights.... (Planning)... but as you write a little further down... 1 m... I assume 1 sqm... Then chipboard is suitable if you have it in the rest of the property...
79:an: I myself have a thick layer of lerklining under the shavings.
Milkshaken: 22X95 or 28x95 boards are sufficient for your case.. Check my AVARTbild to see a number of slats... :) Click on the picture to enlarge it.... We used 28X95 to join posts in 45X95.. to ceiling beams and planks of 145X 45
Milkshaken: Hire a mason or "kaminnisse".... That's serious business if not done correctly..... Remember that dangerous gases can come from a fireplace.... If done incorrectly, you endanger the whole family..... The gas is also odorless..... Carbon dioxide...
Milkshaken: just as the engineer says.... THINK ahead... Please show and specify what kind of wall and surroundings + what it looks like above and below the wall....
TorpAnders: A steel steering wheel doesn't sound very nice, unnecessarily much work, and consider that children are soft! Go to the scrapyard and buy a sports steering wheel instead. (or Mekonomen and similar)
TorpAnders: Check out this previous thread http://forum.byggahus.se/golv/82938-tolerans.html
jon_h: Exactly. Similar to how in warm countries the vapor barrier is sometimes placed on the outside of the structure because it's always cooler indoors than outdoors. The vapor barrier is installed based on the circumstances, and sometimes it's best to skip it altogether.
ehsqvis: I was thinking about making one large room out of two bedrooms on the second floor. I used a calculation program for glulam beam sizing (Martinsons Trä), and the model in the program is for a 1 1/2-story house. Can this model be applied to my house, which more closely resembles a 2 1/2-story house? see attached images
ByggaNytt: The price (2003) according to previous thread: http://forum.byggahus.se/151277-post8.html Check the price of 45*220 AND it should/ought to be stamped with K24!
79:an: http://www.inflexor.se/pdf/Gallerbroschyr_tackgaller_version_2006.pdfThese might help. http://www.inflexor.se/idebank.php?item=25 I guess it might be difficult to find the standard size you want, so custom order and pay the little extra amount. I myself have one of those small silly cast iron gratings, but I might make channels between the floors and have elongated gratings in the floor, if I
Otto72: I am raising the thread because I have the same problem. I need to attach a support beam for a patio to the edge beam made of leca. Is facade plug suitable or are there better methods? I don't know how deep the edge beam is but somewhere inside there is the concrete slab. Best regards, //Otto
yens: Now it’s a storage room I’m going to build that isn’t so dependent on insulation (or not at all, I had thought). I also live in southern Skåne. BUT, it is definitely a factor if there is “only” a 40% difference in price. I had received indications of much, much more, perhaps a price per square meter for concrete blocks down to around 45-50 SEK/sq m, then it would have been a different
jonas_7en: I once built some low platforms on a mesa, and we constructed them with 45*220 because that was the height the customer wanted. As I see it, you can either build with 45*70 in two steps or take 45*145 in one step, depending a bit on how it looks, since it really must not be too high in a hair salon because it can cause big problems for older people to get up. But I would probably have set it at
andersmc: 5.40 and 3 meters are standard lengths you can use. A cross-trader should be able to come up with those. Just keep looking.
MathiasS: I think your 220x45 will sag at that length. Such a beam almost sags from its own weight after a few years..... I had a similar hole in a load-bearing wall and installed a glulam beam. http://forum.byggahus.se/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40547-miniprojekt-hal-i-baerande-vaegg-bilder.html
petepete: Ok. Then it will be cc300 and skip the OSB:en. It feels a bit unnecessary when you have them so close together with the 28x70:in. Best regards, Peter
ByggaNytt: I had 3.9 and then you can rent a high model at e.g. Cramo, it reached over 4 meters so it's fine!
carra: Or 22' which I recently used to install cable conduits, assuming you have 16 mm electric conduits... then the coupling sleeve will also fit... otherwise, you might have to go up a size if you have 22's conduits carra
zankan: The cost of excavation and foundation is significantly more expensive than laying the roof... That's roughly where the difference in the square meter price is... the production time is the same/square meter approximately... Connecting a gable roof to another is a simple affair, I would say, although it depends on how the support of existing rafters is done. You can do it more or less cleverly...
Peter_K: I was thinking of trying to avoid it, but it might as well be best to do it right from the start :) Found Träguiden,se and there seems to be a lot of information to gather.
Karl_den_store: I have a house from the early 1900s with tiled stoves in all rooms except one where it has been removed. The flue and clear marks from the old stove are still visible. Therefore, I would like to install a tiled stove in the room again, but here's where my problem comes in. The room is on the 2nd floor and according to the chimney sweep, it would be practically impossible to get a building permit