Building Materials and Construction Technology
jon_h: Oh, now you edited your reply while I was tinkering with mine. 1. See above 2. Since your timber is so flimsy, I would place them fairly close. Maybe at 4-500 c/c or so. Depends a bit on how well they grip the wall as well. Then 160 seems unnecessarily long, 115/120 should be enough. 3. 600 c/c works well for the sheets' sake.
Bryggens: I have a 1940s house with a root cellar in the basement measuring about 4x4 meters. I am planning to divide the space so that it can have different temperatures inside. Now to the question: currently, almost the entire floor consists of earth, meaning there is no actual floor, except for a small concrete slab just inside the door. If I pour a concrete floor throughout the entire room, will that
olni65: Floor leveling compound it will probably be. Nice to have it confirmed that it should work. Thanks for the answers.
Bror: For the ventilation to work, there must be both supply and exhaust air. If no air enters, none can exit. Your house is not that new, so the supply air comes in from various places, which is not optimal. You have district heating, and therefore the chimney is cold, which causes the exhaust ventilation to work poorly. In the current room, you have a wood-burning stove; start by opening the damper
hyweu: Have managed to supplement with expanderbult here and there.. feels a little better and safer now :) Thanks anyway for the answers! :)
aivo: There is a bottningslist available for purchase that you press in to then seal over. The most important thing is that it is sealed from both sides. Still air is exactly how insulation works. So even if the foam doesn't reach inside the entire wall, I don't think it matters, as long as it is sealed from all sides.
scenic46: There is plenty of good literature for different levels. Among others, Svensk Byggtjänst has books like bookstore, student literature, and up to advanced construction master literature. Books are not cheap in Sweden with our small language. I search for books at Byggtjänst, bookstore, etc., and then buy them significantly cheaper on Bokus.com. Bokus has plenty of construction literature. A tip.
Bob_the_builder: [citat] The official information from Gyproc (Gyproc Handbook) states three months, and it's hardly something they would deviate from in the event of a complaint. However, it's interesting to know if anyone has actually had issues with the gypsum because it has been up unprotected for too long. Edit: You are absolutely right about 12 months when it comes to the Glasroc variant! However, it is
jon_h: If it has been stored dry, it should work just as well as I understand. It is precisely the chromate protection that becomes less effective over time.
SWE_Monstro: The request is now sent to some companies, will get back with their responses when received.
fantasi: Yep, we were planning to have a shower wall there :-( . The wall is not very long, only 1m, so it's not too bad to tear down.. However, the question is whether we should do the same on the wall where we have the bathtub? It should be added that we will build a half-wall to create a shelf between the bathtub and the wall. The half-wall will be 20-30cm higher than the bathtub.
Bror: Use foam plastic as insulation and fully glue the boards onto the studs and foam plastic, this will make the construction stiffer. HDF might be better than MDF, more moisture-resistant.
Johan Gunverth: [citat] Couldn't it be filled in when pouring the rest of the floor? Usually, you pull up the tracks before the concrete has started to set and click mortar into the channels. Then you skim it off and voilà! the hole is gone.
Jack Of All Trades: I think you mean trossbotten (or blindbotten) since you say it should hold the insulation in place. In that case, your picture isn't quite correct because trossbotten doesn't lie between the sill and the foundation piers. Trossbotten is nailed under the floor joists and the material can be planks, plywood, cellplast, or minerit, for example.
Tegheim: We have started on a garage construction as some may know. http://forum.byggahus.se/socialt-projekt/3777-tegheims-projekt-hobbybilsgarage-100kvm.html We were thinking about the roof. Is it necessary to have plasterboard there? We have 3 meters ceiling height at the lowest part. Is the plasterboard only for fire protection? It is currently covered with 12mm chipboard.
imported_Byggaren: [citat] It is always the wood that is the weaker link in the chain when it comes to joints. Nails, screws, bolts, etc. have greater toughness and strength. Therefore, they are not dimensioning in the way that the wood becomes where compressive stresses from shear forces become dimensioning. This is, among other things, why you nail several nails to distribute the pressure. Not because the nail
mb29661: Milkshaken: Is it a method that you have used a lot? Vagabondo: Have you done your work yet, how did you do it and how did it turn out? I'm in about the same situation, but with a little less spackel, about 300 kg
steelis: I have it like this where I have tiles: Floor joists 220x45, cc60 28x120 sparse 28mm chipboard 13mm plaster self-leveling compound tiles Other floors: Floor joists 220x45, cc60 28x120 sparse 28mm chipboard 9mm click floor The downside I've noticed with this is that I need to have a higher temperature on the supply line where I have tiles, I've had to restrict the underfloor heating quite a bit
Rypos: Can someone suggest where I can find names and information online about profiles frequently used when building interior walls in offices? I'm thinking of the white metal profile that sits between the panels. Thanks!
ByggaNytt: 45+170+45: [bild] "stiffness" is achieved with external gypsum+panel and internal gypsum+OSB http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/utegips.jpg http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/vagg.jpg
v-g: Sad that it has to be that way. But if it heals as little as you say, it's no big deal. I would probably rather keep it under observation and inform the association that you don't intend to do anything about it since they can't provide a decision. What I see is the big risk that everything goes awry if you tinker with it yourself. At least a plumber has liability insurance that covers it. If you
urbourbo: Wondering how it went, did you find a good supplier of floor moldings, ceiling moldings, and perhaps window casings in funkis style? We have renovated the old woodwork as much as possible in our old funkis house, but unfortunately, quite a bit has to be replaced. And I've also googled through most of the links above, and like you, found that everyone has traditional style, no funkis. Modern
elof: Thank you for the answers! The wall should be "straight as an arrow" with a length of about 3m with a door, so I think the double-sided tape method sounds most reliable /elof
esox71: I was thinking about trying mattiasp's tips, but my 16 mm cutter doesn't really want to go down into a 12 mm hole. It probably would have worked with a 16 mm "rundfräs" or whatever they are called, but I obviously didn't have one. So I tried fallheden's tips and it worked perfectly. Thanks for all the tips!
smidifix: ok thanks for the quick reply!! I'm going to have chipboard behind it, so it doesn't matter then :-D Best regards Linus