Building Materials and Construction Technology
zankan: [citat] Yes, because the foam has closed cells while the mineral wool consists of several fibers, the ability of foam to convert kinetic energy into heat is completely useless... However, you can use the foam as a spring to dampen impact noise and other types of vibrations/phenomena that occur when sound waves or shocks hit a surface that oscillates, causing flank transmission.
Milkshaken: Pl 400 is good, but it creates a thick joint.... There is an excellent Wurth adhesive.... Check out Wurth's products... You just apply the adhesive thinly, hold it against it and then it sticks securely. The advantage of that is that the adhesive joint becomes smaller... yes, less thick that is...
atelli: I wonder if anyone has experience with the sliding doors "London" from Skånska byggvaror? http://www.skbv.se/templates/produkter-2.cfm?level1=K%2DGA&level2=PG%2DGA201 We plan to install a sliding door wall in our utility entrance to conceal the heating unit, etc. The sliding wall will be a total of 240 cm and we plan to install two or three doors. Are the doors stable, is the rolling mechanism
MoN: You can also try using a hammer drill. Set it to impact only and "tap" out the joint. It worked when we were fixing the facade on a sports hall from the 60s.
David250: [citat] I have a gap of almost 10mm at the "worst" spot. Does it also work on vertical seams?
Johan Gunverth: There are 40mm countertops in various materials. That should work. The only difference might be that the stair material is glued with whole planks. No short joints of the planks, in other words.
Panamayellow: Buy regular metal buckets from your paint dealer, I did that and saved about 600 SEK compared to if I had gone to Bauhaus and bought buckets meant for spotlights. They are exactly the same except they don't have handles on them at Bauhaus.
amatörnisse: Well, saloon doors are probably not for us unfortunately.... Anyone with another suggestion?
Milkshaken: But then I'll delete my response to Travolta with...
snickarboden: Why not glue it? PL600 is perfect for this because you can take down the molding without tearing the wall. If there's anything PL600 is suitable for, it's precisely gluing moldings. /Kent
FruEkorre: First a question: Is the house built with a wooden stud frame? If it is NOT, then there is likely no vapor barrier. Otherwise, the least destructive way to check is to find the original construction drawings, which can be handy to have in other contexts as well. If you can't find drawings and don't want to make a hole in the wall (if there is plastic, you ideally don't want to break it), try
Milkshaken: Personally, I would have skipped the board and everything, just focused on steel studs as sole plates. Then regular wooden framing... In a basement interior wall, the moisture migration isn't as significant as in a basement exterior wall... Instead, a regular framing with steel studs at the bottom is sufficient as mentioned.
Kalleman: I believe a friend bought this at a regular hardware store.
anna_jimmy: Paint stores usually have a large selection of adhesive plastics.
Milkshaken: Hello. That was a lot about moisture here and there...:) Anyway... You have insulated the foundation from the outside, GOOD... Nothing organic on the inside.... That is OSB.... 2 things you can do with good results, either build a thin wall with leca, and preferably fill with leca in the gap as you do behind.... Then plaster nicely, with, for example, gypsum plaster.... Then you can do whatever
Snailman: Something like this is what I was thinking (for the middle part of the house, that is) http://www.fiskarhedenvillan.se/addition/house/showImagePopup.php?image_id=img_45e3f18389b55 with the difference that I probably want the section of the house under the balcony to be wider than the balcony. The method shown in these pictures I don't think works due to the columns that are supposed to support
Milkshaken: Oh. It turned out nice... I'm tempted myself, but I probably don't have the patience... I saw the joint but had to look really carefully...
anaitis: Calling it rendered is also correct, but it's a broader term. For it to be a kloasong wall, it needs to have reed as reinforcement.
Knecke: I have taken down a bit of the ceiling to get a better look at how it is structured. It turns out that the joists do not extend from outer wall to outer wall but rather from the outer wall to the heart wall and then a new beam continues from the heart wall to the next outer wall. However, there are 3" 8" beams in place anyway. Is the load-bearing capacity negatively affected much by this? The
Norell: Okay, but then maybe MoN's suggestion is enough, it's not like you're going to hang upside down on those drywall sheets anyway, so they won't flap around if they're tied together with a piece of gles.
Solrosen: ahhhh... THAT'S the one! Spot on and many thanks /J
Mica: Hello, I'm in the process of building a conservatory (from WIllab) on a wooden frame, and as I go along, more and more questions arise. The room is intended to stay just above freezing during winter to store plants (possibly heated for the occasional dinner during the winter months). Facts: Sliding doors: WT60 with U-value: 2.4 and insulated roof 40 mm with U-value 1.1. There is 25 cm of
Dr.SiC: Ok, I'm on board with what you mean and I have a friend who just got a Feinmeister (and I'm super jealous :D), so that could definitely be done. BUT, I have now been up in the attic and dug thoroughly (in the insulation) and I obviously didn't check carefully enough before!!! The beams today don't look at all like I thought, they only do in the rest of the house, not over the living room!!!! I've
Mats: I think so too. Black on the outside and brownish on the backside. Quite porous.
perra i skogen: Black-painted masonite also works very well
Milkshaken: If it is an authorized company, then you should of course ask them to fix it, it shouldn't need to be accepted so crookedly,,, If it had been a DIY project, it might have been acceptable, but professionals should know their job... File a complaint... They can raise with jacks and screw props afterwards, if they have gotten it on the swelling too...
MathiasS: This is probably something like what you should do. If it's just a regular door, the problem is even smaller. http://forum.byggahus.se/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40547-miniprojekt-hal-i-baerande-vaegg-bilder.html Unfortunately, there has been a bit of a mix-up with the images in the forum conversion, but if you manually cut and paste the image links into the browser, you can view the images. Or a