Building Materials and Construction Technology
millcreek: Thank you for the reply! So, it's a cement block buried in the ground, and then the house is built directly on it, around 1945. I'm afraid that since it's in ground moisture, it might creep up. But platon sheet sounds sensible! But apparently, it also holds with age-resistant plastic? Oh, how difficult!
_bystrom_: Not an old fiber plug then? The ones used in the past before the plastic plug came along...
_bystrom_: Silicate paint or Webetonex. Webetonex is easier to work with, doesn't need a silicate primer, etc. Not as runny, plus you absolutely mustn't splash silicate on anything, it etches itself like crazy... It also dissolves aluminum. Which I noticed when I painted with a roller handle made of aluminum! =/ It left gray streaks in the paint.
it-snubben: Phaedrus: Thanks, there were some useful tips there. It seems like it's not completely impossible to do it yourself after all.
Bror: Mataki has a similar product that I have used, http://www.mataki.se/ Halotex RS. It's only been 2 years since I put it on my roof, so I don't have long-term experience, but so far no problems have arisen.
Florin: [citat] trust me I will :D let's just hope it doesn't go over 106,500 kr then :rolleyes: Will come with pictures when it gets closer to the house
CCPusher: Given that you have chosen such thin MDF, I would personally opt to glue the panels rather than screw them. You only have about 9mm to drive the screw into, so neither a pointed screw nor a screw with a drill tip seems ideal (pointed could cause bumps on the outside, and self-drilling doesn't hold as well, reducing strength). If you still choose to screw, make sure to "screw with care" so you
Fabian-Bom: Use: Lm/Tm=Um And then calculate the thickness as Tb=Lb/Um Lm=Thermal conductivity of mineral wool Tm=Thickness of the mineral wool Um= U-value Tb,Lb same as above but for the concrete. Alternatively, calculate Lb/Lm to see how much thicker the wall needs to be to achieve the same U-value. It should be noted that this is an approximate estimate as it does not take into account, among other
spocks_beard: Hello I have a thread under bathroom, grateful for answers; http://www.byggahus.se/forum/badrum/83606-kortlingar-foer-cc300-golv.html Jocke
ArvCop: Hello Thank you all for the quick response. Unfortunately, I don't have a drawing, the house is an old school in Bergslagen built in the mid/late 1800s. I will go up and measure sometime in the next few days, and will post the measurements right after. Best regards, Arvid
Poggan: If you want the gate to last a long time, you might want to consider using pressure-treated wood. Personally, I think pressure-treated looks nice!
Assman: Regular concrete weighs about 2100-2400kg/m3. The question is whether the person who designed the garage roof designed the floor for that load. Then there is lightweight concrete you can use, which is significantly lighter but has lower strength. As anaitis said, I would consult an engineer or similar to find out the strength and quality of your floor, cracks, corrosion, if reinforcement is
Kommod: Hope they have some good solutions before the work starts then. The reason I'm wondering is precisely because it feels a bit "messy" to tear up the floor and remove sand for the stämp process, packed sand probably won't give way, but something sturdy is needed on top... mdf maybe? I'm thinking of some board instead of a beam just to distribute the weight better, but as I said, let's hope the
anaitis: [citat] It's true that teak is relatively rot-resistant. Mahogany on the other hand... No, not particularly. This is because teak is filled with resin in its pores. Mahogany has a more normal structure.
MaxPax: I would have used c-mortar, mostly because I know that the elasticity is ok for the purpose, and it serves as a suitable base for all kinds of tiles. I don't know anything about the elasticity in gypsum mortar... And speaking of Alpha's post: check with your chimney sweep what they think. They have a tendency to vary requirements and regulations completely unsystematically between each other :)
TOW: The studs are set at 40 cm centers with noggings at 120 cm centers. There is no flex in the floor. It's actually really stable compared to other houses I've had. 19 mm at 40 cm centers must be at least as stiff as 22 mm at 60 cm centers! /Thomas
Sne4: We have a simpler form of iron railing around our patio, it has small feet that are anchored to the ground, the short sides (about 4m) are also screwed into the wall. The long side (about 9m) also has two 'snubbelstag' that brace the long side. They work wonders for stability, but are not so great to have in the patio. -But it doesn't have to look like that - if, so to speak, you section off the
Lasse T: Hehe, harder than that. No posts in the middle of the intended blown-out walls. I actually believe in something like an H-Beam 200 x 200 as both legs & top rail. Pressure plates on each leg at the bottom (i.e. 3 pcs) would be the safest, but I could also imagine sawing out the siporex where the posts are to stand so they bottom directly into the concrete beams that the torpar foundation consists
gl-projekt: You have understood it completely right. The thing is that I should not attach it all to the foundation of the house; it's mainly the horizontal shift I'm pondering. But it was nice that you could confirm it all :-) I'm pacing back and forth about extra support :-) I have an excellent chance to do it now, but it costs me a bit with the shovel... though it's free exercise... I saw a table, it's
joflopp: Do you mean that the room is completely finished and arranged now? In other words, you finished the whole room despite now suspecting that the wall you opened up is load-bearing? To begin with, I would promptly check using drawings whether the wall is load-bearing or not. If it is load-bearing, then more information is needed for someone with engineering knowledge to calculate it. What is on the
Radbandet: Built a new bathroom in the basement and constructed interior walls around the shower with metal studs and aquapanel. Unfortunately forgot to place studs/blocking where I need to attach a shower door (niche shower) and a small bathroom cabinet (sink). Is there any "super" plug that can hold when attached to an aquapanel?
Johan Gunverth: [citat] Yep! Don't forget to face the growth rings towards each other to avoid future movements. Don't skimp on the moisture before gluing. Rinse thoroughly with water on the planks until they are soaking wet. Then wipe off the excess before applying the glue on one side. Work quickly and therefore have all tools ready before you start with the glue.
AdamL: Hello, Is there a general problem with the quality of tiles? When even the second version of white turns out to have faults, we wonder if the industry has no control at all. After purchasing a batch of 10x30 Stile at K-rauta (delivered from Golvabia), which showed systematic scratches on 90% of all tiles, we changed suppliers. Now we have purchased a batch delivered from Svenskt Kakel (Spanish)
MathiasS: The subject has been discussed before without reaching any really good conclusions. Perhaps there is an opportunity now. The whole thing is about having a heated space under a deck without needing to build a complicated structure to insulate the deck joists. The difficulty lies in both achieving a watertight roof with drainage AND being able to insulate without the building height exceeding the
v-g: No, but on things that are built in the basement like walls just framed against the concrete, extra floors, etc.
snuttjulle: Chiming in here a bit and asking what type of waterproofing should be used. I have an old terrace under a roof but rain and snow blows in with a garage underneath and I'm wondering how it would be built today as mine was built in '54.