Building Materials and Construction Technology
Årstakillen: Hello, I have a non-winterized veranda at the summer cottage where I need to close off a doorway. Currently, there is only insulation between the facade and the inner lining (chipboard). Should I follow all the proper procedures when closing off the door (outer panel, windbreak, insulation, moisture barrier, inner lining)? Or is it better to take a comprehensive approach to the entire veranda at
Poggan: Hi! Thank you for your response! I have basically ruled out papp. But I'm thinking more and more about windscreen, primarily because it is so easy to work with. It must be much quicker with the fabric than with plasterboard. I don't need any soundproofing, we live very peacefully and nicely, and we will be isolating more.
Floppman: There are MDF boards that are groove-milled and look like beadboard, 6mm thick. I believe the company is called something like Panelskivan.
plipp: install those myself in my basement, that plastic is no danger, is there for soundproofing..as far as I understand
Fotografen: Carefully remove the asbestos and tie it in double bags/sacks and deliver it to the recycling center; they usually want it to be labeled as well. If you do these kinds of things once or a couple of times in your life as a homeowner, the greatest danger is the car ride there.
Geoff: Planning to build a wall-mounted loft bed in a small girl's room. I plan to build a frame for the bed using beams that will be screwed onto the wall, which consists of brick on both sides. What should I use to secure the construction? Frame plug / nail plug / regular nylon plug??
OlofChrister: Fix is not hard to work with! Then you probably mixed it wrong - more water! I think fix is nice to work with, it's easy to apply, easy to get the right thickness with a notched trowel, and the tiles adhere well. I wouldn't consider alternatives. I did use tile adhesive when I placed a narrow row of tiles in the kitchen directly on a chipboard, but that was because I was afraid that the water in
Lasse T: Hello I am keen on tearing down a whole corner of our extended house. Unfortunately, those particular walls have a large dormer on the extension. It feels a bit heavy to solve with a laminated beam. Perhaps I should mention that I'm going to knock out the walls to install glass doors on the ground floor, so there isn't more support than in the attachment points and the corner, of course. It is
ltz: Same situation here.. working on lifting the roof of the skånelänga. Placing tiles I had left over on the property in a number of rows between the intermediate beam layer and the foundation wall. The mortar takes a long time to harden, as do the concrete splashes I have cast. It will probably be fine, just need to wait a bit longer for it to cure.
Anonymiserad 23608: The problem with penetrating moisture in adjacent areas persists, and laying tiles without waterproofing might not be an optimal solution in this case.
Årstakillen: Planning to close up a doorway in the facade and it's ribbed paneling on the outside. Any tips on how to make it look nice so that the spacing between the ribs is the same across the entire facade?
anaitis: Drywall panels where you apply plaster behind? Press firmly and screw "softly".
GDS-TVD: Hello! I'm calculating and designing a fairly large carport and am unsure about my own calculations since this is new for me. The conditions are that I want a flat roof (3 degrees) to be able to build a patio on top, and the height of the construction must be kept low. Therefore, I have thought of a ridge beam to support the whole thing. The size is 7m long with a span of 8m, and here come the
apotekarnes: [citat] You didn't glue both sides of the groove on both boards, did you? If so, you can bet that the joint will crack right in half when it shrinks in the winter. Speaking of jigsaws, I think it's fine to cut floors with a jigsaw if you make sure to turn the floor upside down when sawing. Almost all chips go upward. But of course, a saw blade is preferable. Then I think the floor can very well
petersk: Planning to build a fence with posts 90x90 cc 2600, rails 34x145 and 28x120 Does anyone know how it typically looks with lengths of pine at Byggmax in Länna/Stockholm? I have a bit of a drive and don't want to get there and find nothing over 5200. /Peter
Mats: A planer is a jointer and thicknesser, and then take a 45X70 down to 44X68 since you are not talking about large quantities.
Mangan: Ah: T-12-36.5 cm has a U-Value of 0.30 T-10-36.5 cm has a U-Value of 0.25
Bynna: I am wondering if anyone knows how I should best solve the following. I am planning to build a simple small airing balcony with a wooden floor. The planks are the same as those I used indoors for flooring. They are sturdy tongue-and-groove pine boards that are 40 mm thick with tongue and groove, and the boards are 13.5 cm wide. I have allowed the intermediate floor, made of sturdy wooden beams,
mandus: Start milling from the innermost part, closest to the tenon shoulder, so that the mill has proper support. You can also add a support strip with the same thickness as the frame parts. Another tip is to use a sacrificial piece at the "exit hole" to avoid breakout.
nilhen: Hi, Does anyone know where to find these convenient convectors (with a fan) that can be embedded in slabs or joists? //nilhen
qrz: I am going to level a bathroom floor where underfloor heating will be installed on chipboard and then covered with vinyl flooring. The flooring installer suggested using Serpo 644 as it is suitable for the current substrate and good in terms of heat distribution. Is there a big difference between Serpo 644 or is fiber-reinforced screed just fiber-reinforced screed? There seems to be quite a price
R Grahn: [citat] You are probably entirely right about the support. It was just a thought that struck me in haste, as I was calculating support pressure on wall plates etc. not long ago, and was surprised by the low strength of wood. (when calculating with the new Eurocodes) As for how the beams should be supported, I'm also inclined to change my mind here. I also reflected that the designer had chosen HE
Lymmeln: Hello, Does anyone know if "EN 13986 P6" and v20 are comparable classifications, or what they mean? Best regards, B-E
katah: I am also curious about the carpet, we are having similar thoughts. But I think our staircase is nicely in place ;) so we "only" need to sand and paint. We have considered these new stair covers, i.e., wood laminate on the steps, but I think a carpet would be cheaper and easier to lay. I would love to see pictures of how you have solved it!
pulver: ..for all the answers and tips. Expensive it seems to be regardless. Crazy how well they charge for the discs, not to mention the turntables. This is something for Byggmax or others to start manufacturing immediately. Glespanel seems to be a good alternative but a bit less convenient. /Peter
Årstakillen: The panel runs parallel to the ridge and the porch is already built-in. Will check for nail heads in the panel, but haven't found any in the living room ceiling.
imported_Byggaren: If it's a framework truss, improving the dimension of the support legs doesn't help. The issue isn't there, but in the rafters and the floor joists. If you move the supports out (so they are closer to the outer wall), the free length from the middle wall to the support becomes longer, which positively affects the moment in the subframe/beams. But for the rafters, it's the opposite since the