Building Materials and Construction Technology
Apprentice: The only preventive measure you need to consider is sealing the pipe ends with some acrylic/latex caulk.
Kalle B: Yes, maybe it can be done that way, I'll have to ask my brother.
Savett: Hello everyone! I hope someone can help me with what is likely a simple question, but I must ask anyway. I'm aware that OSB can be found as OSB2 or OSB3 and also understand the differences. I don't have a lot of experience, but I thought I had some knowledge. I've just brought home several OSB3 boards to reinforce an outer wall as I'm going to mount a few things, like a kitchen fan and some
KnockOnWood: [citat] Fun, fun, fun! Can't the cars handle a little frost now? My Volvo 2008 does, at least. (Built for a Nordic climate. In Belgium) //OtR
saturnus: Since you don't mention how far out from the wall you want the canopy, it's difficult to know the dimension of the square profile. But with only 2 supports, there may be a risk that the profile can sag, despite a short distance of 2700mm. However, if you could fit 2 brackets on each side (with a gap), this would help significantly. As for galvanized profiles, you should look for companies that
GoForIt: If you are going up to a height of 150 cm, my suggestion would be to use buried plinths. There are ready-made ones with a post base available at the construction market.
Lämbonäs: Make the wooden batten shorter than the shelves so it shouldn't be visible, provided you don't place the shelves too high; paint it the same color as the shelves or the wall. Install the batten first, it will be easy to position the cabinets at the right height later, but make sure you get a straight batten; if they've been lying around for a long time, they might be warped! A 50x50mm batten is
Lämbonäs: Set the footings first, it's easiest. Dig holes and then level and pack the bottom with some crushed stone, make sure they are level and straight using a spirit level. You can easily fine-tune the posts with the spirit level once you screw them into the metal supports on the footings. Start by driving in a couple of stakes or pipes and stretch a line between them, so you can easily see that you
fredand44: A thousand thanks for all the answers!
perkalainen: [citat] I had a thought that alkyd paint would stop moisture and in that respect could work as a base (on the masonite). But of course, the masonite probably flexed and thus wouldn't be a stable base for wall tiles even if it's a small area. Anyway, today I bought some repgips. :)
Savett: Great! Thanks for the help! I suspected it wouldn't be a problem with my 11 mm OSB, but it's always good to ask before everything is in place again ;). I have a little bit of knowledge but not enough when it comes to handling an exterior wall with diffusion barriers, insulation etc. I might be too picky, but that's just how I am ;)
mariaria: But I don't dare to take the chance that the hammarbandet is positioned higher. I have tested with a stud finder and above the window section (which is 4 m) it signals every 60th cm, which supports Jakim's theory that the hammarbandet isn't directly above the windows but higher up? Does anyone know how a stud finder responds when tested directly on the hammarbandet?
fridhem: Depends on how you use the room... If you're going to heat it up occasionally, it's not a bad idea, but otherwise, it's a waste of money.
Mats: If you can, definitely do it. The height contributes significantly more to the bending strength than the width.
JanneL: I have plastered and then painted. Prefer color on stone wall. I don't think one should "ruin" the wall by covering it with plasterboard. That's my opinion, perhaps not shared by everyone.
MaxPax: A few years ago (3, 5, 7? don't remember), a large part of the gable facade of a three-story high school building in Falköping collapsed. According to a source, this happened due to rusted wall ties and strong wind. My point in telling this is the following: Within a few years before, the facade had been inspected by a bricklaying company whose report was along the lines of "something must be
addee: I have spoken with the engineer who also inspected my house before purchase. Props to support, and then just replace wall by wall. Leca or light concrete according to preference/price. The last bit at the top towards the roof/ceiling is "thrown" in with suitable mortar, with or without a mold around it.
mikael__63: :confused: :confused: hello I live in TIMRÅ and I am going to buy roof trusses for my garage which will have storage so that I can put some stuff up there. they should be 6.8 meters Does anyone know where you can buy roof trusses at a good price ?? :)
Krumeluren: It was actually quite cheap. May I ask where you found it so cheap? I myself have just been searching around the Linköping area for Labyrint Antik and didn't find any place that sold it for under about 143:-/m2 (excluding shipping). But maybe your price was without VAT?
Rickard_o: Sounds like a simple solution. Probably easiest to go with a larger putty knife and a one-meter spirit level and a good deal of eyeballing :) Then it will probably turn out just fine.
imported_Byggaren: [citat] The only proper way. Professional? Do you apply the sluring with a Scanian accent too? _________________ Byggaren
urkraina: Ok thanks for the response and explanation. This is an apartment on the 3rd floor (4th with the basement). Above is the attic which I can access and check how the rafters are positioned. I'm getting the drawings tomorrow and will check the attic first thing I do tomorrow.... :)
Milkshaken: But remember to take it step by step.... I know some who dug up an entire basement floor, it caused the basement wall to fold inward.. Regards, Me,,,
anra: Thank you... but what is the alternative (a stylish alternative) in a bathroom?
ohlgren: Called Combimix today and asked about their Mur och Putsbruk C together with Siporex. They said that indoors there are no problems but outdoors there is a problem because the moisture outside can cause the render to chemically react with the Siporex, leading to damage. The solution according to Combimix is to apply a special render on the Siporex (outdoors) and then it's OK to apply regular Mur
B6304S1: It was painting before. (Will do the final round tonight) Maybe it doesn't make a big difference which one you do. P.s I could conclude that you should be quick to paint the entire ceiling after you have sparmålat (is that what it's called?). Otherwise, it shows in the color, as the sparmålning has time to dry enough to build up a visible layer of paint. // Kim