Hello
Renovating the summer cottage and have removed chairs parts of a wall that I believe is load-bearing.
Can you see with the naked eye if it is and any idea on how I could compensate, posts or beam?
Pictures are available at:
http://www.minhembio.com/Arvcop/162533/
Thanks in advance, Arvid
Renovating the summer cottage and have removed chairs parts of a wall that I believe is load-bearing.
Can you see with the naked eye if it is and any idea on how I could compensate, posts or beam?
Pictures are available at:
http://www.minhembio.com/Arvcop/162533/
Thanks in advance, Arvid
I probably also tend to think that they don't carry any significant load, but then again I'm not an engineer either..
Is it possible to place a beam on top of the lower chord of the truss and attach the truss to the beam with joist hangers? Or are the joist hangers not strong enough to withstand the truss's stress? (If I put the beam under the truss, I lose a lot of ceiling height.)
Can't imagine that the hanbjälkarna need to be supported. Try removing a post as an experiment, there's probably no pressure on it at all. If you plan to lay a floor in the loft and use the space, that's a different matter.
I would, however, keep the hanbjälkarna exposed and let it be open up to the ridge. They are really beautiful!
I would, however, keep the hanbjälkarna exposed and let it be open up to the ridge. They are really beautiful!
That is very similar to the truss construction we have on our 1930s villa. According to the engineer I have consulted (for other things), "they don't make trusses like that anymore."
Your wall is definitely load-bearing. It helps to relieve the lower parts of the truss. Without your posts in the middle, you would have an enormous bending force on the lower part of the trusses. There will probably still be a considerable bending force, but the posts help to reduce it.
You could probably place a glulam beam or steel beam above, as you mentioned, and then "hang" the trusses from it. But my guess is that you might need some more specialized brackets than what you can find in a regular building supply store, and I definitely think you should contact an engineer for dimensioning.
Even if you achieve the correct dimensioning and suspension, you then need to transfer the force from the beam to something that can withstand the load. As an amateur, I would guess that in the worst-case scenario you could have up to 5-10 tonnes of load at each endpoint of the beam, but probably much less. But as I said, you should find someone who can calculate this accurately.
Your wall is definitely load-bearing. It helps to relieve the lower parts of the truss. Without your posts in the middle, you would have an enormous bending force on the lower part of the trusses. There will probably still be a considerable bending force, but the posts help to reduce it.
You could probably place a glulam beam or steel beam above, as you mentioned, and then "hang" the trusses from it. But my guess is that you might need some more specialized brackets than what you can find in a regular building supply store, and I definitely think you should contact an engineer for dimensioning.
Even if you achieve the correct dimensioning and suspension, you then need to transfer the force from the beam to something that can withstand the load. As an amateur, I would guess that in the worst-case scenario you could have up to 5-10 tonnes of load at each endpoint of the beam, but probably much less. But as I said, you should find someone who can calculate this accurately.
I might have to change my mind a bit and agree with hempularen that there can be a downward force, but in that case, only due to the weight of the tie beams themselves.
If the roof is heavily loaded, for example by snow, the force will be downward, and the roof will want to flatten out. This results in a straightening tensile force in the tie beams, not a compressive/bending force.
If the tie beams need support, you can reinforce them by bolting, for example, 2x6" lumber along each tie beam.
Now, I'm not a structural engineer, but a technical physicist, so check with a professional.
If the roof is heavily loaded, for example by snow, the force will be downward, and the roof will want to flatten out. This results in a straightening tensile force in the tie beams, not a compressive/bending force.
If the tie beams need support, you can reinforce them by bolting, for example, 2x6" lumber along each tie beam.
Now, I'm not a structural engineer, but a technical physicist, so check with a professional.
I had exactly the same trusses and problem in my house. The solution my constructor gave me was to place two 180mm I-beams in the longitudinal direction of the house, directly under the attachments of the collar tie and inserted into holes made in the timber of the gable walls. After that, I was able to remove the load-bearing wall.
/Stig
/Stig
Hello
Thank you all for the quick response.
Unfortunately, I don't have a drawing, the house is an old school in Bergslagen built in the mid/late 1800s. I will go up and measure sometime in the next few days, and will post the measurements right after.
Best regards, Arvid
Thank you all for the quick response.
Unfortunately, I don't have a drawing, the house is an old school in Bergslagen built in the mid/late 1800s. I will go up and measure sometime in the next few days, and will post the measurements right after.
Best regards, Arvid