Building Materials and Construction Technology
aktieante: Wood is completely out of the question.
Mats: It probably moves too. Even cast concrete bridges usually have expansion joints at least at one end. Whether it's solely due to the steel reinforcement, I suppose I'll leave unsaid.
Nonas: I think if you're going to use modern insulation, you should probably follow the existing standard, i.e., fiberglass/mineral wool = vapor barrier on, but there is wood insulation and various other things that are "old-fashioned" and have worked for ages otherwise, you just need a wind barrier or vapor barrier since they are self-drying. I don't think there's a standard regarding plastic or no
Kjell_G: Maybe you are thinking of a so-called bottenlist that is sometimes used to make it diffusion-tight. I have only used drevremsa without such a list. See it as an opportunity for the house to breathe - I wouldn't have taken it down and redone it. It should work fine anyway. I assume the panel was on the outside with trim around the window, in that case, there may be a strip drevad from the outside.
Nonas: Waterproofing in wet rooms is a tricky issue. What you need is some non-homogeneous material (i.e., not organic). There are boards available for purchase now that have "built-in" waterproofing, and fiberglass-covered gypsum boards or cement boards are probably the cheapest option if you want something else in front. Otherwise, there's Fibo-Trespo. If you want boards without waterproofing, I would
ducksale: Hi! I was wondering if anyone has built a villa with the material in the title and if you are satisfied? Has anyone heard about others' experiences? Anything to recommend? Does anyone know any company in Västmanland that uses maxits DSM Byggblock? Grateful for all responses. /Andreas
alen: A disadvantage of the Straw House is that it is very time-consuming - extremely labor-intensive compared to wooden houses/frameworks. However, when we built it, the advantage of the straw house was that it was such a simple technique throughout. Anyone without experience and education, even the mom and the little children, can help carry straw bales and smear clay plaster. This means that you
JanneL: Some tips: http://www.thermisol.se/faq.php?faq=inc.golv.php
GustavW: I have 4.5m cc300, 400, and 600 depending on the placement. Sure, there is a little flex with cc600 but not so much that it bothers...
Foolse: Hmm. First - do you have approval from the association? There might be some opinions when tearing down walls. then - is the wall load-bearing? it could be so when looking at the floor plan. Then you probably need to bring in a structural engineer to assist you. If not a load-bearing wall: Tearing down a non-load-bearing stud wall isn't very difficult. There are several ways to go about it, but I
fresve: [citat] You screw the panel from inside the cabinet, it's as simple as that.
jmw: I faced the same "problem" as you a year ago. We never got around to doing it, but my impression was that depending on the nature of the wall, it would come to around 80' for the wall that was relevant in my case. But as I said - a rough guess from an amateur.
ikeo: Didn't like the price of plywood and the one they had at Byggmax wasn't great either. However, they sold paneling cheaply at Byggmax, B-quality, but it looked okay and is good enough for a walk-in closet. It ended up being about the same price as OSB, so paneling is being hammered at full speed at home now. Top of the wish list right now is a compressor and nail gun.
Daniel Nybling: In connection with my kitchen renovation/reconstruction, I am going to tear down a wall that might be load-bearing. The house is a 1 1/2-story villa built in 1975. The wall runs perpendicular to the rafters/floor joists roughly in the middle of the house, and the floor joists rest directly on the wall construction. The wall construction consists of a horizontal 70x70 stud against the floor joists
chessen: Check out www.veckebosag.se. Certainly far from Stockholm, but I know he usually delivers timber there. He also has good prices.
gullegrizen: Calculate 45x360 on cc600 according to the calculation program from Moelven Töreboda.
mariaria: I have a concrete slab foundation without a basement, 1974. On the outside under the front door, there is a depression in the concrete for the front steps, where underneath the steps the exterior wall plate is completely visible. We have now ripped up the parquet floor in the hall and removed the embedded joists in the concrete (floor). The plastic sheeting was partially missing, and insulation
karmajoyst: Well, it should work fine. I assume you want your attachment vertically... i.e. on top of your lecablock. If it's a threaded rod that you want, I would choose to buy a stainless steel one. Drill a hole approximately 4 times the diameter of the threaded rod and fill it with concrete, then just stick your threaded rod into the concrete. Tap the block with a rubber mallet for a while to vibrate your
Mikael_L: [citat] Yes, that looks good. You also get the advantage of the sun's heating of the facade creating natural convection.
Crischnak: Thank you Skalman, yes the tub stands on adjustable legs except for the LECA frame. So no danger then?? That feels good. The well can be accessed via a hatch at the front, the connection to the pipes is also there. Regards
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Thank you! I haven't tried to look for newer info on the execution of drawings even though I have Auto-Cad on the computer (which I have never used and probably never will use). With computer-aided drafting (Cad), a whole new world has opened up for consultants, where, for example, an architect used to have to break the job to make an intermediary original without dimensions and text so
Bror: Even a wall that you cast yourself must have some support to prevent it from starting to lean. Such support you might be able to dig out between and in front of the plinths. Perhaps complement with some type of jordankare.
gullegrizen: If it turns out that it is not possible to glue the shower walls for one reason or another, is it then completely hopeless with this type of shower wall or is there another solution?
Swedeinla: Hello! Check out "Villa Anna" in Gdansk (www.villa-anna.pl/index.html). I had booked it last year but due to changed plans, it didn't happen. They have a private garage and the prices are OK. Significantly cheaper than staying in central Gdansk. Lars
CN: Hello! We are looking at an old 1 and a half story house with a basement that is in very bad condition (except the basement...) The basement has cast walls and floor. Can you tear down everything except the basement and buy wall blocks, roof trusses, and in that way start a bit from scratch.. Anyone who has done that and has some experiences to share? Grateful for answers! /C
Kjell_G: I have built a balcony railing but am a bit unsure about its stability. The question is under Patio and outdoor area http://www.byggahus.se/forum/altan-uteplats/88333-ett-balkongraecke-blir-till.html Can anyone contribute suggestions on how the railing can be stabilized? Kjell G
Anonymiserad 23608: What is behind the masonite? If it's not a true DIY job, you are likely to have boards behind which you can attach the gypsum to. 13 mm gives better results if you have space for it - it smooths out irregularities better than 6 mm gypsum, is easier to work with, and is cheaper.
anaitis: [citat] If it is reinforced thick plaster on mineral wool, it is considered a safe and proven construction. You need to address the mistakes at the windows, etc.