We hastily decided it would be nice to have a small stove in the hallway where we are renovating. The placement of the stove is intended to be in front of the old chimney and next to a small corner (see the picture). Under the masonite in the picture are grooved underfloor heating panels. Also attaching a picture of the type of stove we have in mind.
I'm thinking of putting another drywall sheet on the small short wall. The wall between the corner and the plastic door is single drywall with OSB behind. Quite a lot of extra work if that also needs double drywall. But if it must be done, it must be...
The white wall is patched with some layers of wallpaper underneath. Should I tear down and remove all the wallpaper and re-patch? A small piece closest to the door is Tretex...
Can I have tiles under the stove that with adhesive don't exceed 17mm (which is what the parquet will be)?
Very grateful for any other tips on what I should consider!
/Jon
I'm thinking of putting another drywall sheet on the small short wall. The wall between the corner and the plastic door is single drywall with OSB behind. Quite a lot of extra work if that also needs double drywall. But if it must be done, it must be...
The white wall is patched with some layers of wallpaper underneath. Should I tear down and remove all the wallpaper and re-patch? A small piece closest to the door is Tretex...
Can I have tiles under the stove that with adhesive don't exceed 17mm (which is what the parquet will be)?
Very grateful for any other tips on what I should consider!
/Jon
Bring in a chimney sweep who can give you tips! It is he/she who will inspect the installation when it's finished and give you a burning permit afterward, so it’s probably a good idea to have a good connection already beforehand.
All new modern stoves have regulations on the distance to combustible (and non-combustible) materials behind, on the side, and in front, and this distance can often be reduced if you put a non-combustible board (e.g. minerit) with a ventilated air gap in between - i.e. air should be able to circulate through the gap. As I understood it when discussing this with our chimney sweep, we could halve the distance to combustible material by putting in a board and a 30mm ventilated air gap, reduce the distance to a quarter with two boards and two air gaps, etc. I don't think putting a non-combustible board directly against combustible material works as, for example, minerit conducts heat through.
The material underneath is hardly as critical, and there it usually suffices with a plate, glass panel (tempered), stone slab, or similar.
All new modern stoves have regulations on the distance to combustible (and non-combustible) materials behind, on the side, and in front, and this distance can often be reduced if you put a non-combustible board (e.g. minerit) with a ventilated air gap in between - i.e. air should be able to circulate through the gap. As I understood it when discussing this with our chimney sweep, we could halve the distance to combustible material by putting in a board and a 30mm ventilated air gap, reduce the distance to a quarter with two boards and two air gaps, etc. I don't think putting a non-combustible board directly against combustible material works as, for example, minerit conducts heat through.
The material underneath is hardly as critical, and there it usually suffices with a plate, glass panel (tempered), stone slab, or similar.
Start by finding a pipe in the chimney that you can use for the stove. It can affect the placement!
We chose a minerit board behind a similar stove because we had a wooden wall there. If you have a masoned chimney behind, then just tear everything down to the bare brick surface and then plaster - perfectly acceptable as non-combustible
. All trätex must be removed - burns like tinder. Gypsum is affected by the heat and crumbles.
We tiled the minerit to get a surface that is easy to clean. White/light tiles or plaster are a good background for such a nice stove.
If you want to splurge, you can buy a large stone slab like granite, slate to place the stove on and lay it directly on top of the pre-laid floor that you will have in the room. It doesn't matter if the granite is not at the same height as the floor. A slightly raised slab can be nice if it's not in the way of free passage without a tripping hazard ...and you won't have any holes in the floor if the stove is moved. If you have space, cover/tile the floor on the sides so you get a sturdy floor to store wood and "tools" that belong to the stove.
It never gets hot under a stove that stands on legs - all the heat goes upward, and cooler air sneaks along the floor - no risk of overheating the floor under the stove. Only sheet metal is needed. It is actually there solely to protect wooden floors if embers fall out. If I remember correctly, it was enough to extend 30cm in front, according to our chimney sweep. Our sheet metal wasn't even screwed to the floor - the weight of the stove kept it in place.
Good luck!
gaia
We chose a minerit board behind a similar stove because we had a wooden wall there. If you have a masoned chimney behind, then just tear everything down to the bare brick surface and then plaster - perfectly acceptable as non-combustible
. All trätex must be removed - burns like tinder. Gypsum is affected by the heat and crumbles. We tiled the minerit to get a surface that is easy to clean. White/light tiles or plaster are a good background for such a nice stove.
If you want to splurge, you can buy a large stone slab like granite, slate to place the stove on and lay it directly on top of the pre-laid floor that you will have in the room. It doesn't matter if the granite is not at the same height as the floor. A slightly raised slab can be nice if it's not in the way of free passage without a tripping hazard
...and you won't have any holes in the floor if the stove is moved. If you have space, cover/tile the floor on the sides so you get a sturdy floor to store wood and "tools" that belong to the stove.It never gets hot under a stove that stands on legs - all the heat goes upward, and cooler air sneaks along the floor - no risk of overheating the floor under the stove. Only sheet metal is needed. It is actually there solely to protect wooden floors if embers fall out. If I remember correctly, it was enough to extend 30cm in front, according to our chimney sweep. Our sheet metal wasn't even screwed to the floor - the weight of the stove kept it in place.
Good luck!
gaia
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