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Tolerance deviation for 90 deg angle
Have hired a construction company for kitchen renovation.
Including setting up a new wall (studs, OSB, plasterboard), building a ventilation duct flush against the ceiling (the fan was to be moved sideways), and installing base cabinets plus a countertop (about 4 m long). We are taking care of the tiling ourselves.
Final inspection, and we say ok since everything looks good visually. We don't check measurements because we believe we have purchased services as described above.
About to tile (the space between the countertop and the vent duct is about 120 cm), and then discover that the countertop is not completely horizontal. The angle between the wall and the countertop is such that a shelf board of just under a meter when placed upright on the counter leans 7-8 mm away from the plumb line at the top. When we question this, we are told that it is a deviation within the norm. The remedy is to start tiling at the lowest point and then cut the rest of the tile at the bottom to give a straight line at the top. Is this really correct?
They started with an empty kitchen, so no consideration needed to be taken for old flaws, and they could align walls and base as they wanted.
/alacs
Including setting up a new wall (studs, OSB, plasterboard), building a ventilation duct flush against the ceiling (the fan was to be moved sideways), and installing base cabinets plus a countertop (about 4 m long). We are taking care of the tiling ourselves.
Final inspection, and we say ok since everything looks good visually. We don't check measurements because we believe we have purchased services as described above.
About to tile (the space between the countertop and the vent duct is about 120 cm), and then discover that the countertop is not completely horizontal. The angle between the wall and the countertop is such that a shelf board of just under a meter when placed upright on the counter leans 7-8 mm away from the plumb line at the top. When we question this, we are told that it is a deviation within the norm. The remedy is to start tiling at the lowest point and then cut the rest of the tile at the bottom to give a straight line at the top. Is this really correct?
They started with an empty kitchen, so no consideration needed to be taken for old flaws, and they could align walls and base as they wanted.
/alacs
The wall is okay (measured with "stone and string") but the countertop is higher at one end. It seems like the countertop is okay from one side up to the cutout for the hob (approximately 280 cm from the left edge), then from the hob to the right edge (120 cm), it slopes upwards. I will borrow a laser level and check how it looks. I'll see if I can arrange a photo later.
Sounds a bit strange. However, the most important thing would be to know how much the countertop slopes in mm per meter. It should be possible to calculate mathematically if you know the dimensions of the shelf you are using. A straight ladder would be the best tool to check with...
If the slope is not too great, I would rather tile it straight by correcting the bottom with a caulking, i.e., set the tiles from the highest point. But it depends, as you said, on how it looks...
If the slope is not too great, I would rather tile it straight by correcting the bottom with a caulking, i.e., set the tiles from the highest point. But it depends, as you said, on how it looks...
Yes, we're *leaning* towards doing as you suggest. As mentioned, I'll get a laser level to better see how it varies over the 4 meters we're dealing with. If it's primarily on one side, we might do the correction as you suggest. We'll have a soft joint anyway - it just can't be unreasonably high on parts of the counter.Frebbe said:
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