6,386 views ·
11 replies
6k views
11 replies
Plaster that Allows Moisture to Pass Through?
Hello,
I'm in the middle of a laundry room renovation. I might need to do some filling on a wall that is an exterior wall below ground level. I would like some type of plaster that is easy to apply but breathable. What should I use?
The laundry room is in the basement.
I'm in the middle of a laundry room renovation. I might need to do some filling on a wall that is an exterior wall below ground level. I would like some type of plaster that is easy to apply but breathable. What should I use?
The laundry room is in the basement.
The surface is lightweight concrete. In some places, there are cavities that need to be filled. Maximum thickness might be 15-20mm. Otherwise, the walls are "fairly" fine. I plan to scrape them with a steel scraper and then use some kind of mortar to smooth them out a bit. Should I also use husfix for this, or should I go with plaster mortar? I find plaster mortar a bit difficult to work with, and I would rather use something easier to handle.
Grateful for any tips I can get.
Grateful for any tips I can get.
I would use "putsbruk C hand" meaning fine plaster 1mm.
Much easier to work with is gypsum plaster, preferably "maxit gypsum" which has a relatively long drying time and therefore
more suitable for an inexperienced user. Since it is an exterior wall, I wouldn't recommend
it as it might get discolored if moisture seeps through.
Unfortunately, I don't know anything about Husfix.
Much easier to work with is gypsum plaster, preferably "maxit gypsum" which has a relatively long drying time and therefore
more suitable for an inexperienced user. Since it is an exterior wall, I wouldn't recommend
it as it might get discolored if moisture seeps through.
Unfortunately, I don't know anything about Husfix.
I have read elsewhere on this forum that lime mortar is especially good for exterior walls, preferably something called hydraulic lime mortar. I have such walls myself but haven't started plastering anything yet. There might also be info on the plaster manufacturers' websites, like gypsum, maxit, gyproc.
F
F
Husfix allows moisture to pass through and is easy to work with. I can't see that husfix gets discolored. It's rather the amount of moisture that determines. After that, it's the type of surface coating you use that provides a sensitive or durable surface.brevik said:
Is it properly drained on the outside?
We ourselves renovated a basement with a floor that is 160cm below ground level. There were discolorations on the plaster on the inside as the basement had been unheated for many years. The plaster had come off, and we had to brush the wall to make it paintable. A few minor repairs with husfix and we painted with silicate paint (water glass) that allows moisture to pass through. The result was very good and with a little heat now it allows the small amount of moisture that passes through the wall to be easily absorbed by the heated air. The prerequisite is that the drainage on the outside is OK.
The humidity in the basement is around 50-60%, if I remember correctly. In the summer, the humidity is at its worst, but I have a cheap dehumidifier that runs with the hygrometer.
/A
Hello!
If the surface is already coated with lime mortar, you should continue using lime mortar. Hydraulic lime mortar is relatively easy to apply. If you're handy, you can apply it without too much swearing. Then use a brush to roughen the surface and achieve a nice, even texture.
The lime mortar is actually quite attractive as a wall finish. I chose to keep it exposed and placed subtle halogen lighting along the walls. I used Maxit Serpo 148, which is lighter and more beige than C plaster. However, hydraulic lime mortar is about three times more expensive, and if you're plastering a lot, it will cost quite a bit.
BUT if the walls are completely clean today, I would NOT use lime mortar as it cannot be tiled on. Or rather, you SHOULD not tile because lime mortar is relatively soft. If you apply adhesive, which is harder, the lime mortar risks cracking, especially if you have moisture migration and an uninsulated basement wall.
I would have used plaster C.
If the surface is already coated with lime mortar, you should continue using lime mortar. Hydraulic lime mortar is relatively easy to apply. If you're handy, you can apply it without too much swearing. Then use a brush to roughen the surface and achieve a nice, even texture.
The lime mortar is actually quite attractive as a wall finish. I chose to keep it exposed and placed subtle halogen lighting along the walls. I used Maxit Serpo 148, which is lighter and more beige than C plaster. However, hydraulic lime mortar is about three times more expensive, and if you're plastering a lot, it will cost quite a bit.
BUT if the walls are completely clean today, I would NOT use lime mortar as it cannot be tiled on. Or rather, you SHOULD not tile because lime mortar is relatively soft. If you apply adhesive, which is harder, the lime mortar risks cracking, especially if you have moisture migration and an uninsulated basement wall.
I would have used plaster C.
Click here to reply