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11 replies
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11 replies
Tips for plasterboarding a ceiling
Hello
I'm planning to install drywall on our bathroom ceiling. The ceiling needs to be completely smooth (i.e., without seams, according to the design chief (my wife...)). The room is about 3.70 x 3.90 m. The panels are 90 x 244 and will need to be joined, of course. I've installed furring strips (28x70) with a 30 cm gap. My questions are:
1. Do I need to install short pieces (about 23 cm) between the furring strips where the panels are joined and at the walls?
2. Should I stagger the seams on the ceiling or can I go with straight seams? What is best (which will crack the least, be least visible when done with spackling...)?
//Mikael
I'm planning to install drywall on our bathroom ceiling. The ceiling needs to be completely smooth (i.e., without seams, according to the design chief (my wife...)). The room is about 3.70 x 3.90 m. The panels are 90 x 244 and will need to be joined, of course. I've installed furring strips (28x70) with a 30 cm gap. My questions are:
1. Do I need to install short pieces (about 23 cm) between the furring strips where the panels are joined and at the walls?
2. Should I stagger the seams on the ceiling or can I go with straight seams? What is best (which will crack the least, be least visible when done with spackling...)?
//Mikael
You can attach the short pieces once you've set up the first board. Screw them in at the edge while holding the short piece with your other hand. This way, you save time and the job becomes easier. One layer of plaster is sufficient.
actually no short pieces are needed.
you never lay short pieces when drywalling under the ceiling *short plank etc.*
unless you just want to and feel like it!
no general seam, stagger the seam instead.!
regards
carpenter estwing
you never lay short pieces when drywalling under the ceiling *short plank etc.*
unless you just want to and feel like it!
no general seam, stagger the seam instead.!
regards
carpenter estwing
I had put in the kortbitarna.
Okay, I guess it'll have to be like this then ...
Blocking against walls and at joints, as well as staggered joints between the panels ...
One more question then: Did you cut away the recess on the first panel (so it becomes 60 instead of 90) to avoid having to spackle the entire length and only spackle the screw heads (no ceiling moldings are ordered from the designer ...)
/Mikael
Blocking against walls and at joints, as well as staggered joints between the panels ...
One more question then: Did you cut away the recess on the first panel (so it becomes 60 instead of 90) to avoid having to spackle the entire length and only spackle the screw heads (no ceiling moldings are ordered from the designer ...)
/Mikael
Recess that does not go against another recess, such as at a corner, or break between wall and ceiling, I usually cut away, otherwise there tends to be a lot of complaints from the painter. If the framework allows, I just cut away 5 cm in that situation.
I would have also cut away the recess
Sounds good, remove the plaster joints towards the walls so you make it easier for yourself, much easier to plaster.mikmal said:Okay, then it will probably have to be like this ...
Blocking against walls and at joints, and staggered seams between the boards ...
One more question then: Would you have cut off the recess on the first board (so it becomes 60 instead of 90) to avoid plastering the entire length and just plaster over the screw heads (no ceiling moldings are ordered from the designer ...)
/ Mikael
Also, if your bathroom is on the ground floor of a two-story house, I think you should consider a second layer of gypsum with staggered joints. It should be a smooth ceiling, hopefully without future cracks... then it might be worth screwing two layers.
Good luck!
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