Hello!
I want to lower the ceiling in the kitchen and wonder what materials and methods I need to succeed.
Currently, there is paneling on the ceiling, but I want to lower the ceiling height and install spotlights. What should I consider, and what materials are available for purchase?
I've torn out the kitchen and will be installing a new one, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to redo the ceiling as well.
Best regards,
Thomas
I want to lower the ceiling in the kitchen and wonder what materials and methods I need to succeed.
Currently, there is paneling on the ceiling, but I want to lower the ceiling height and install spotlights. What should I consider, and what materials are available for purchase?
I've torn out the kitchen and will be installing a new one, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to redo the ceiling as well.
Best regards,
Thomas
It's just a matter of framing and nailing up a new ceiling. If you have an old house that isn't wind-tight, it might be a good idea to take the opportunity to install plastic. Then there's something called panelskivan which can be used as a ceiling. Tongue and groove pre-painted boards that are installed with hidden clips or nailed discreetly. Another (probably cheaper) option is plasterboard, but then you have to putty and paint, and it can be difficult to make it look nice.
If you want a starry sky lighting, fiber optics might be something to consider.
If you want a starry sky lighting, fiber optics might be something to consider.
Hello Roary and thank you for the quick response.
I was in contact with a construction company that recommended buying ready-made plasterboards (120*30) which you set cc 27 (the rule). Then you screw in the tongue to hide the screw.
There were pre-painted (white) ones available for purchase, but I suspect the price will be different then. Since I want to install spotlights, the company recommended lowering the ceiling by about 10 cm just for the spots.
The house was built in 1971 and it's a robust and well-maintained house, so I don't think I need to use plastic, but thanks for the tip there.
Fiber optics sounded very interesting. Where can I find more information about that?
Thomas
I was in contact with a construction company that recommended buying ready-made plasterboards (120*30) which you set cc 27 (the rule). Then you screw in the tongue to hide the screw.
There were pre-painted (white) ones available for purchase, but I suspect the price will be different then. Since I want to install spotlights, the company recommended lowering the ceiling by about 10 cm just for the spots.
The house was built in 1971 and it's a robust and well-maintained house, so I don't think I need to use plastic, but thanks for the tip there.
Fiber optics sounded very interesting. Where can I find more information about that?
Thomas
You might need to investigate the issue with the spotlights a bit further.
The type that I believe is most common when you want general lighting in a kitchen is 12V 35W or 50W. Such spotlights usually require an upward distance of 15-18cm from flammable material (I am assuming that your old ceiling is not made of concrete or similar materials). There is an abundance of brands to choose from. It's possible that you can find a variant that manages with 10cm.
Alternatively, there are 20W spotlights that only require a total installation height of about 20mm, including the safety distance. However, these provide significantly less light, so you would need more of them in that case.
What I mean to convey is that you should choose your spotlights before deciding how much you should lower the ceiling. Additionally, a fair amount of system planning is needed to find suitable places for transformers (typically a maximum of 2m cable between the transformer and the spotlight, although it can be longer if you pay for the right brand). You might also need to make room for protective covers (unsure if this is necessary in your case).
An alternative to lowering the ceiling is to cut holes in your existing ceiling, embed protective covers (which are typically 30x30 cm or 40x40 cm), and then install a gypsum ceiling or similar underneath everything.
The type that I believe is most common when you want general lighting in a kitchen is 12V 35W or 50W. Such spotlights usually require an upward distance of 15-18cm from flammable material (I am assuming that your old ceiling is not made of concrete or similar materials). There is an abundance of brands to choose from. It's possible that you can find a variant that manages with 10cm.
Alternatively, there are 20W spotlights that only require a total installation height of about 20mm, including the safety distance. However, these provide significantly less light, so you would need more of them in that case.
What I mean to convey is that you should choose your spotlights before deciding how much you should lower the ceiling. Additionally, a fair amount of system planning is needed to find suitable places for transformers (typically a maximum of 2m cable between the transformer and the spotlight, although it can be longer if you pay for the right brand). You might also need to make room for protective covers (unsure if this is necessary in your case).
An alternative to lowering the ceiling is to cut holes in your existing ceiling, embed protective covers (which are typically 30x30 cm or 40x40 cm), and then install a gypsum ceiling or similar underneath everything.
Hello hempularen.
Thank you for a comprehensive response to my question about spotlights. I realize there's a lot to consider before we install the ceiling, and your information was very valuable, including the safety distances. Thank you!
I have a meeting with a carpenter tomorrow and I'll bring what you and Roary have informed me about.
I realize that I need to be clear about how much lighting I need in the kitchen if I install additional fixtures under the wall cabinets and also which spotlights I choose, what properties and requirements they have. After that, it's decided how much the ceiling should be lowered. Phew.
I'm really impressed that you're helping me in the subject to get it right.
Thank you.
Thomas
Thank you for a comprehensive response to my question about spotlights. I realize there's a lot to consider before we install the ceiling, and your information was very valuable, including the safety distances. Thank you!
I have a meeting with a carpenter tomorrow and I'll bring what you and Roary have informed me about.
I realize that I need to be clear about how much lighting I need in the kitchen if I install additional fixtures under the wall cabinets and also which spotlights I choose, what properties and requirements they have. After that, it's decided how much the ceiling should be lowered. Phew.
I'm really impressed that you're helping me in the subject to get it right.
Thank you.
Thomas
http://www.cariitti.com/page.php?page_id=104 is a company that sells fiber optics. It tends to be expensive, but you don't need to drop the ceiling as much since the fiber cables do not get hot and the projector can be placed elsewhere.
This is how I did it in my kitchen, 45x45 joists (thus lowering about 90mm)...
The ceiling is Huntonit, which is easy to install but expensive (I use cc60, but they recommend cc30).
You should check the spots carefully as they usually need at least 10cm free above, including "buckets" on top.
I have 6 pcs of 55 watt with a dimmer in my kitchen...
http://www.flottleden.com/cmd/files/Renovering/Okt2007/huset 2007.09.17-2007.10.26 074.jpg
http://www.flottleden.com/cmd/files/Renovering/Okt2007/huset 2007.09.17-2007.10.26 095.jpg
The ceiling is Huntonit, which is easy to install but expensive (I use cc60, but they recommend cc30).
You should check the spots carefully as they usually need at least 10cm free above, including "buckets" on top.
I have 6 pcs of 55 watt with a dimmer in my kitchen...
http://www.flottleden.com/cmd/files/Renovering/Okt2007/huset 2007.09.17-2007.10.26 074.jpg
http://www.flottleden.com/cmd/files/Renovering/Okt2007/huset 2007.09.17-2007.10.26 095.jpg
I would install drywall. == good & cheap.
Use 45 studs and buy 90 width on the drywall sheet. Be careful with the screw so it doesn't go in too far or become too spaced apart.
Regardless, I think it might be good to rent one of these.
There are also simpler models if it's a smaller ceiling.
Tip.
If you haven't plastered a ceiling before, the painter can do it for a few hundred depending on how large it is. The painter will also sand the ceiling and it always turns out really well. Then you don't have to look at that plaster seam in the middle of the ceiling
.
As for the spotlights, there are special "cups" to place over them.
Use 45 studs and buy 90 width on the drywall sheet. Be careful with the screw so it doesn't go in too far or become too spaced apart.
Regardless, I think it might be good to rent one of these.
There are also simpler models if it's a smaller ceiling.
Tip.
If you haven't plastered a ceiling before, the painter can do it for a few hundred depending on how large it is. The painter will also sand the ceiling and it always turns out really well. Then you don't have to look at that plaster seam in the middle of the ceiling
.As for the spotlights, there are special "cups" to place over them.
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Hello Zupermac and thank you for the response.
The same day I planned to start framing, we noticed damp spots at the top of the wall, and when we opened up the ceiling, we found wet insulation and wood next to the fan duct.
So I have to wait to install the spotlights, but I was planning to frame with 45x70, although I'm considering using 45x45 once the moisture problem is resolved.
The spotlights I've looked at require a safety distance of 50mm (12v), and I will be installing 6-7 with two transformers that handle 200w.
The same day I planned to start framing, we noticed damp spots at the top of the wall, and when we opened up the ceiling, we found wet insulation and wood next to the fan duct.
So I have to wait to install the spotlights, but I was planning to frame with 45x70, although I'm considering using 45x45 once the moisture problem is resolved.
The spotlights I've looked at require a safety distance of 50mm (12v), and I will be installing 6-7 with two transformers that handle 200w.
It's probably the pipe connection that's leaking, but check the inside of the roof in the attic anyway.KTH_1965 said:
Anticimex suspected either condensation from the previous construction or that the roof hood is not sealed, allowing rainwater to enter. But the mysterious thing is that it is dry up by the ceiling and wet down at the start of the pipe in the kitchen, which was not visible when the old kitchen was in place. Now the question is whether the fault is hidden or not. I claim that it is a hidden fault, since it wasn't discovered until I tore out the kitchen cabinets with frames, but then it is up to the insurance company to assess the whole situation. Without a kitchen during the holiday season is really fun
sigh
sigh