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· västernorrland
· 12 posts
I'm considering opening up to the ridge and removing a wall between the kitchen and living room to create more space in the house. But I'm thinking of only having one half of the house open to the ridge, possibly making a loft on the other half. However, I'm unsure about the loft as the height between the "floor" of the cold attic and the ridge is, in my opinion, too small, about 2 m. Not much space to have a loft. Does anyone have experience with these renovations?
If someone has opened up to the ridge in half the house, how did you manage the new wall between the cold attic and the interior spaces to make it look nice? What did you use for the ceiling and insulation where you opened up to the ridge?
Tips with pictures are welcome!
Best regards/Jörgen
If someone has opened up to the ridge in half the house, how did you manage the new wall between the cold attic and the interior spaces to make it look nice? What did you use for the ceiling and insulation where you opened up to the ridge?
Tips with pictures are welcome!
Best regards/Jörgen
Well... I'm bumping this thread a bit. I'm also considering tearing off the roof in the living room and opening it up to the ridge. The trusses are built in a truss structure. W-truss or whatever it's called. But ideally, you want to remove all the beams and have it completely open. The question is just what is required and if the current 200x45 with cc 120 joists can be reinforced.
Anyone with experience in this and how they've done it? There seems to be a lack of posts about this. I don't think it should be that uncommon, though.
Grateful for answers.
/Erber
Anyone with experience in this and how they've done it? There seems to be a lack of posts about this. I don't think it should be that uncommon, though.
Grateful for answers.
/Erber
If you remove the framework, what remains of the truss (roof beam) must rest on a laminated beam (or similar) at the ridge. Alternatively, you might consider converting the trusses to A-frame or scissors trusses, but definitely consult with a structural engineer first. However, you won't achieve an open ceiling to the ridge as you want; the ceiling will be higher than before but not all the way up to the ridge.
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We are working on it, although our project on the ceiling has been at a standstill for a while. We don't have traditional roof trusses; instead, they have placed the roof on some of the beams in a framework that they have put up at the top of the house. We are keeping the beams that the roof rests on visible and removing some of those that were just support for the attic floor.
It's a lot of work, but we still believe it will turn out well.
Pictures: http://www.pinebar.com/Diaries_Build/2006-04_Vinden/index.html
It's a lot of work, but we still believe it will turn out well.
Pictures: http://www.pinebar.com/Diaries_Build/2006-04_Vinden/index.html
Have completed the bedroom, kitchen, and living room.
No paneling has been done except in the bedroom yet. There, raw wood planks were used to create a rustic feel.
Early photo from the bedroom, bedroom complete, photo from the kitchen, and a photo showing the buildup of the roof truss.
Insulated with regular paroc 170+95+cellplast 20mm as a wind deflector in the air gap.
No paneling has been done except in the bedroom yet. There, raw wood planks were used to create a rustic feel.
Early photo from the bedroom, bedroom complete, photo from the kitchen, and a photo showing the buildup of the roof truss.
Insulated with regular paroc 170+95+cellplast 20mm as a wind deflector in the air gap.
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I can add that it is a tough job. Tip! Use scaffolding preferably on wheels. A ladder is useless because you have to move it all the time.
If you have a fairly new construction with good cc-measurements, there are prefabricated panels for this purpose that are covered with paper, i.e., a bit stiffer, which you staple to the roof truss.
My cc-measurements are somewhere between 1270mm and a meter, so it doesn't work.
I used double panels to offset the joints.
The reason I used cellplast as a wind deflector is that they are easier to work with than masonite.
Don't forget to ventilate the ridge with either mold stoppers in each compartment or a ventilated roof ridge.
Yep, feel free to ask if there's anything else you wonder about.
If you have a fairly new construction with good cc-measurements, there are prefabricated panels for this purpose that are covered with paper, i.e., a bit stiffer, which you staple to the roof truss.
My cc-measurements are somewhere between 1270mm and a meter, so it doesn't work.
I used double panels to offset the joints.
The reason I used cellplast as a wind deflector is that they are easier to work with than masonite.
Don't forget to ventilate the ridge with either mold stoppers in each compartment or a ventilated roof ridge.
Yep, feel free to ask if there's anything else you wonder about.