Are you sure about this, as there will still be a total of 78mm on top of the heating loops?!Snurre said:
Considering perhaps, thinking about weight and load-bearing capacity, to use 50mm frigg + 50mm EPS Cement, and then the heating loops + reinforcement. Then cast 43mm, trowel 15mm and 10mm granite.
Better than 100mm frigg, slightly less load-bearing capacity than just concrete, but much better weight (low).
Comments?
I have adjusted the setup a bit:
Floor 1 (basement below)
Raise 12 cm in the hallway
Raise 12 cm in bathroom 1
50mm frigg
20mm EPS Cement
reinforcement + underfloor heating
30mm concrete
10mm leveling compound
10mm for adhesive and granite
Floor 2 (floor 1 below)
Raise 17.8cm in the kitchen
50mm frigg
70mm EPS Cement
reinforcement + underfloor heating
33mm concrete
10mm leveling compound
10mm for adhesive and granite
Floor 2 (floor 1 below)
Raise 17.8cm in the bathroom
50mm frigg
65mm EPS Cement
reinforcement + underfloor heating
33mm concrete
30mm for slope (leveling) and granite and adhesive
There remain 2 questions (maybe someone knows, otherwise I will call EPS during the holidays)
1. Can you pour with regular "heavy" concrete on top of EPS Cement? Approximately 40-50mm regular concrete.
2. Can you pour only 20mm EPS if you are going to pour 30mm concrete + level 10mm on top? Underfloor heating + reinforcement will be placed in between, on the EPS.
Floor 1 (basement below)
Raise 12 cm in the hallway
Raise 12 cm in bathroom 1
50mm frigg
20mm EPS Cement
reinforcement + underfloor heating
30mm concrete
10mm leveling compound
10mm for adhesive and granite
Floor 2 (floor 1 below)
Raise 17.8cm in the kitchen
50mm frigg
70mm EPS Cement
reinforcement + underfloor heating
33mm concrete
10mm leveling compound
10mm for adhesive and granite
Floor 2 (floor 1 below)
Raise 17.8cm in the bathroom
50mm frigg
65mm EPS Cement
reinforcement + underfloor heating
33mm concrete
30mm for slope (leveling) and granite and adhesive
There remain 2 questions (maybe someone knows, otherwise I will call EPS during the holidays)
1. Can you pour with regular "heavy" concrete on top of EPS Cement? Approximately 40-50mm regular concrete.
2. Can you pour only 20mm EPS if you are going to pour 30mm concrete + level 10mm on top? Underfloor heating + reinforcement will be placed in between, on the EPS.
Good question .... count in the hose filled with water + tile adhesive + stone slabs + the bookshelf + the bathtub +++. It quickly becomes tons of added material that burdens the original floor surface, which perhaps might not handle more than the standard requirestomtletare said:
. Is it safe to do so? I would ask someone who can calculate loads in buildings...gaia
So, there has been concrete in the hallway and bathroom, now I'm replacing some of it with Styrofoam and EPS Cement which only weighs 15% of the concrete.
It is only in the kitchen on the 2nd floor that there was a wooden floor structure with 10cm of concrete, compared to 20-25cm of concrete. In the bathroom on the 2nd floor, however, it was concrete all the way up.
I have therefore chipped away the flooring everywhere except in the kitchen on the 2nd floor. Sure, the tiles weigh more than the plastic mat that was there, but EPS and Styrofoam adjust that with a margin.
It is only in the kitchen on the 2nd floor that there was a wooden floor structure with 10cm of concrete, compared to 20-25cm of concrete. In the bathroom on the 2nd floor, however, it was concrete all the way up.
I have therefore chipped away the flooring everywhere except in the kitchen on the 2nd floor. Sure, the tiles weigh more than the plastic mat that was there, but EPS and Styrofoam adjust that with a margin.
Not sure if I've missed something here, but what says you necessarily have to cast something? I thought more along the lines of sparse flooring, putting in heat distribution plates, etc., and then drywalling on + surface coating...
Hello!
We have an uneven bathroom floor, and we've been recommended to first fill in with some small gravel in the deepest pits, like garden gravel, then use leveling compound with reinforcement. Alternatively, quick-setting concrete which is a bit cheaper (dries in just a day). Then underfloor heating for waterborne systems and afterwards leveling compound to smooth and create a slope towards the floor drain. The latter should be done by a professional for us because it's crucial that the slope is correct (1 cm per meter but difficult for a novice to get perfect).
We will have a shower corner, and therefore will be showering directly on the floor, so in that specific area we will have a Minerit board on the floor, either regular Minerit or the green Minerit VT ("tile board"). I've learned that it's important to insulate under the floor heating, otherwise the heat will move downward instead of up into the floor material where you want it warm under your feet.
Tip: Install the underfloor heating yourself, both electric mats and waterborne systems are easy to do yourself - and then let a plumber connect it and ensure the system works correctly. Also consider if there's going to be a towel warmer that’s water-heated on the wall, do this installation at the same time. They are available with a combination of water and a small electric element.
We have an uneven bathroom floor, and we've been recommended to first fill in with some small gravel in the deepest pits, like garden gravel, then use leveling compound with reinforcement. Alternatively, quick-setting concrete which is a bit cheaper (dries in just a day). Then underfloor heating for waterborne systems and afterwards leveling compound to smooth and create a slope towards the floor drain. The latter should be done by a professional for us because it's crucial that the slope is correct (1 cm per meter but difficult for a novice to get perfect).
We will have a shower corner, and therefore will be showering directly on the floor, so in that specific area we will have a Minerit board on the floor, either regular Minerit or the green Minerit VT ("tile board"). I've learned that it's important to insulate under the floor heating, otherwise the heat will move downward instead of up into the floor material where you want it warm under your feet.
Tip: Install the underfloor heating yourself, both electric mats and waterborne systems are easy to do yourself - and then let a plumber connect it and ensure the system works correctly. Also consider if there's going to be a towel warmer that’s water-heated on the wall, do this installation at the same time. They are available with a combination of water and a small electric element.
I forgot to mention that if you want to be really thorough, you should also have heat plates above the heating coils. They distribute the heat effectively. However, this is usually most important under wooden floors, for example, in living rooms, because the wood itself insulates better than ceramic tiles. We won't have heat plates, as we believe it will be sufficient without them and it's also a bit cheaper that way. But remember: Insulation is key for it to be warm, both in the floor and on the exterior walls.