Hello everyone,
I am completely new to this forum and have found so much to read. The problem when you're new is that it feels like there's an endless amount to go through. My question may have been asked before, but anyway...
Within the next year, I’ll be taking down the south/west side and a staircase to apply new plaster. The old one has started to lose its grip and is even falling off in some places.
Can/should you also remove the diagonal boards behind the chicken wire? I just want to check that none of the wall planks are rotted or damaged in other ways. Because during really cold winters, I have noticed something like frostbite "outside" where the radiators are placed.
I have therefore also been thinking about adding extra insulation when the wall (plaster) is already off. But how should one do this since it's no longer recommended to use regular insulation due to moisture problems discovered in several new houses? I am thinking mainly for the sake of the wind barrier, to eliminate draughts, so to speak.
Best regards, Jörgen
I am completely new to this forum and have found so much to read. The problem when you're new is that it feels like there's an endless amount to go through. My question may have been asked before, but anyway...
Within the next year, I’ll be taking down the south/west side and a staircase to apply new plaster. The old one has started to lose its grip and is even falling off in some places.
Can/should you also remove the diagonal boards behind the chicken wire? I just want to check that none of the wall planks are rotted or damaged in other ways. Because during really cold winters, I have noticed something like frostbite "outside" where the radiators are placed.
I have therefore also been thinking about adding extra insulation when the wall (plaster) is already off. But how should one do this since it's no longer recommended to use regular insulation due to moisture problems discovered in several new houses? I am thinking mainly for the sake of the wind barrier, to eliminate draughts, so to speak.
Best regards, Jörgen
How is the wall constructed today? Is there any form of insulation at all?
/Kent
/Kent
From the outside, it's first the plaster (very unevenly applied, from ~3cm to 5-6cm thick), then chicken wire, followed by braces (I think that's what it's called) that appear to be 1" x ~4", and then plank wall. On the inside, I only have the previous owner's information, but it should be nailed battens with insulation in between from the plank wall, followed by a moisture barrier, and finally chipboard. That should be the whole thing. My concern is why it looked like the moisture had "gone through" everything when it appeared as frost on the outside? Or is it due to "just" heat leakage? How can one assume the wooden wall inside looks then?
JPe
JPe
ps.
The person who lived here before us only did what he could get grants for, so the thickness of the insulation varies from 5cm in the first room that was redone to 20cm in the last rooms on the north side. This was according to how the national housing board over the years increased the recommendations on how much one should insulate.
ds.
JPe
The person who lived here before us only did what he could get grants for, so the thickness of the insulation varies from 5cm in the first room that was redone to 20cm in the last rooms on the north side. This was according to how the national housing board over the years increased the recommendations on how much one should insulate.
ds.
JPe
I thought I'd see if I can revive this thread from last year. I haven't made any progress on the front of tearing down refurbishment; the only thing that's happened is probably that more plaster has fallen off than I've chipped away.
But if I now start with the colossal job of chipping plaster, what should I do with the "angled braces," remove everything down to the framework? Or should I leave those planks in place?
Isn't there a risk of the wind sneaking through, cooling the house under the insulation? Maybe it doesn't matter much in the summer, but in the winter, at least I want as little wind around the house as possible.
I read another thread in the forum where a Per-Erik recommended Styrofoam over traditional insulation. But how do you attach it then? Wood moves, doesn't it easily cause shifts between the boards, or are they glued together as you put them up?
When the new plaster is applied to the Styrofoam, what holds the mortar in place besides the reinforcing mesh? The Styrofoam doesn't have a soaking function for the mortar to adhere to more than the mesh, right? Or is there some form of primer applied first?
Many of these questions can of course be answered by a masonry company, but I want many answers without having to run around to lots of masonry companies. Because in the end, I want to do as much of the work myself and "just" have someone come here to apply the mesh and plaster the house.
Regards, JPe
But if I now start with the colossal job of chipping plaster, what should I do with the "angled braces," remove everything down to the framework? Or should I leave those planks in place?
Isn't there a risk of the wind sneaking through, cooling the house under the insulation? Maybe it doesn't matter much in the summer, but in the winter, at least I want as little wind around the house as possible.
I read another thread in the forum where a Per-Erik recommended Styrofoam over traditional insulation. But how do you attach it then? Wood moves, doesn't it easily cause shifts between the boards, or are they glued together as you put them up?
When the new plaster is applied to the Styrofoam, what holds the mortar in place besides the reinforcing mesh? The Styrofoam doesn't have a soaking function for the mortar to adhere to more than the mesh, right? Or is there some form of primer applied first?
Many of these questions can of course be answered by a masonry company, but I want many answers without having to run around to lots of masonry companies. Because in the end, I want to do as much of the work myself and "just" have someone come here to apply the mesh and plaster the house.
Regards, JPe
Plaster on cell foam is a kind of tight plastic plaster and in my opinion unsuitable for wooden walls, so I would not want it on an old wooden house.JPe said:
If you insulate too much from the inside or refrain from heating in certain rooms, the rendering/plaster will freeze away, meaning the plaster dries too slowly and frost bursts damp plaster. Check where the plaster falls off and consider what might be the cause.... then you might find a way to prevent it from happening again.
There is some information about plastered wooden houses online...search
gaia