How to attach ceiling molding to a suspended gypsum ceiling & brick wall?

[Totte_S]

By the way, you only miter outer corners, not inner corners.

Now it gets a bit off topic, but what does it look like / how should it be done according to you if you don't miter the inner corner on a cove molding?

 

[it-snubben]

By the way, you only miter outside corners, not inside corners.

Can you explain in more detail what you mean...

 

[mattiasp]

I recall that it is described in the link above. I have also previously described it here on the forum. I shall see if I can find the text.

http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/41103-ger-kapa-halkaels-list-hur-goer-man.html

 

[mattiasp]

Well, I realized there's a quicker way than using a circular saw for cutting shapes. Last time I listed, I tried a method I picked up on "Fine Homebuilding's" forum "breaktime." Unfortunately, AVI files can't be attached here, but it involves mounting coarse-grained, about 40 mesh, sandpaper on your angle grinder with a support plate, and grinding away the wood that shouldn't be there. It creates a ton of dust, but you can achieve a nice profile in about 30 seconds.

 

[Totte_S]

Aha! The penny has dropped! I didn't realize that the link in mattiasp's post was related to the comment about cutting of inside corners.

Great link overall, good to read when you're doing the exercise "get to know your new miter saw" ;-)
Those of you who haven't checked it out, do it!

 

[jerk]

I have glued all my trim and moldings and after 3 years not a single miter has cracked thanks to PL 400. The whole idea is to glue as close to the miter as possible so the adhesive keeps the trim in place even if the wood moves with the seasons. Wood swells in the summer (absorbs moisture), and dries in the winter (releases moisture): All depending on humidity. As I mentioned, I typically glue mostly on the side of the trim facing the ceiling or the miter or door opening and only apply a small amount on the other side, i.e., the side resting against the wall or wallpaper. I then wallpaper a few millimeters over the trim and let the wallpaper absorb any movement in the wood. This method has worked 100% for me. Furthermore, I have a pneumatic brad nailer which is the best purchase I've made. You just need to hold the trim in place and then attach it with the nailer, leaving only a small hole from the nail head visible. You can easily cover it with a bit of latex, allowing for immediate painting. If you want no trace of the nail head at all, filler is the best option, but you have to wait for it to dry before sanding and painting. I’ve done this throughout my house, and even after 3 years it still looks like the trim was cast in place.

Another tip in this context is that I've used Bostic S 20 construction sealant instead of latex. Latex tends to keep drying after being painted over, which can cause cracks in the sealant. S 20 is more rubbery than latex. After nailing all the trim and moldings, I've applied S 20 into all the gaps and spaces, then let it dry and painted over. However, you have to wipe off any excess with your finger and it's naphtha-based, making it quite sticky. I never paint with water-based paints, only real naphtha-based paint that spreads well. This has provided a perfect result that has remained consistent after 3 years, and there won’t be any changes concerning gaps and spaces in the future.

 

[brago]

Biltema has cheap extendable props that can easily be made longer. They work well for such work.

Hi Jerk,
Are they the ceiling props you have used or was/is there another type at Biltema that fit well? When I check their website now, I only find http://www.biltema.se/products/product.asp?iSecId=1701&iItemId=83963 which I think matches the description.

Regards,
Stefan

 

[jerk]

yes, those are the ones I mean. I don't know if they are exactly the same, things develop over time but they seem to be the ones.

 

[brago]

Sounds good and thanks for the quick response.
How is their function, can they be "pumped" out to increase pressure, or is it a snap fastener that you push in place when they have the right length?

/Stefan

 

[jerk]

The one I used could be pushed apart like a clamp. I think Jula sells a telescopic support that works like that for 149 SEK.