Hello,
I have a few questions regarding framing interior walls for some bedrooms on the upper floor:
What I'm mostly concerned about is whether there are straight studs available for purchase (45x70), which don't warp as soon as you get home and they dry (aside from metal studs)? Or do I need to dry everything under tension before starting? The nightmare is that the walls will warp afterwards like some studs I've had lying on the floor while they dried.
Is there a risk that the walls will warp if you only put boards on one side and work on electrical/telecom/data for a month before finishing with drywall?
Regarding corners, I was thinking of using the left variant in the picture of the Norgips recommended variants, any better suggestions? If I want to get away with just latex caulk in the inner corners, do I need to complement with LP50 (http://www.europrofil.se/produkter/prod_mellanv/lp.asp) inside the boards despite the Norgips corner solution?
For exterior corners, I've understood that you place a beveled edge to simplify the plastering of the corner protectors.
I've considered metal studs but don't have the energy to learn everything about corners, doors, noggings, electrical boxes, etc., which are done differently with the different metal systems I've looked at, seems more like something for professionals who are in a hurry.
Does it sound like I'm thinking correctly? Any other tips?
I have a few questions regarding framing interior walls for some bedrooms on the upper floor:
What I'm mostly concerned about is whether there are straight studs available for purchase (45x70), which don't warp as soon as you get home and they dry (aside from metal studs)? Or do I need to dry everything under tension before starting? The nightmare is that the walls will warp afterwards like some studs I've had lying on the floor while they dried.
Is there a risk that the walls will warp if you only put boards on one side and work on electrical/telecom/data for a month before finishing with drywall?
Regarding corners, I was thinking of using the left variant in the picture of the Norgips recommended variants, any better suggestions? If I want to get away with just latex caulk in the inner corners, do I need to complement with LP50 (http://www.europrofil.se/produkter/prod_mellanv/lp.asp) inside the boards despite the Norgips corner solution?
For exterior corners, I've understood that you place a beveled edge to simplify the plastering of the corner protectors.
I've considered metal studs but don't have the energy to learn everything about corners, doors, noggings, electrical boxes, etc., which are done differently with the different metal systems I've looked at, seems more like something for professionals who are in a hurry.
Does it sound like I'm thinking correctly? Any other tips?
use sheet metal, it's much easier to handle. can easily carry 8 studs at the same time, cut with a metal shear. track in the floor that doesn't need to be fastened with any long screws, for wooden floors drywall screws are enough, for concrete use plugs.
for door openings, add additional wooden studs so you can attach the frame. for the header, take a track and cut a U at each end, then place it on the wooden studs...
check out the Gyproc, Danogips, or Norgips websites for instructions on how to build with metal studs.
for door openings, add additional wooden studs so you can attach the frame. for the header, take a track and cut a U at each end, then place it on the wooden studs...
check out the Gyproc, Danogips, or Norgips websites for instructions on how to build with metal studs.
Yes, it seems like everyone is praising metal studs, it doesn't seem too difficult to figure out around doors either.
I was at Byggmax a while ago and saw that they also had metal studs and tracks, could they be worth getting?
Do you screw with regular drywall screws, by the way? The floor it's going to be attached to is just 22 mm chipboard.
/Micke
I was at Byggmax a while ago and saw that they also had metal studs and tracks, could they be worth getting?
Do you screw with regular drywall screws, by the way? The floor it's going to be attached to is just 22 mm chipboard.
/Micke
Looked around a bit on the recommended websites, and it seems like metal studs, you can always mix in wood where you need to make custom solutions, etc., but the overall frame should be straight and nice! Lots of good info for someone who wants to learn something new!
If I choose a simple system that needs to be screwed together, like screwing the stud to the track, what about the screw head that sticks out at the ceiling & floor?
Do you let the plasterboard extend over the track, considering the track builds out a bit? Maybe I'm environmentally damaged because I worked with sanding where the tolerances were about 0.05mm hehe.
Found this corner variant at Norgips (image), seems good as it provides an angle that prevents cracks in the inner corners, or what does the expertise say? It might be hard to keep it angled by hand when driving the first screws though...
Thanks for all the tips I get on this forum!
If I choose a simple system that needs to be screwed together, like screwing the stud to the track, what about the screw head that sticks out at the ceiling & floor?
Do you let the plasterboard extend over the track, considering the track builds out a bit? Maybe I'm environmentally damaged because I worked with sanding where the tolerances were about 0.05mm hehe.
Found this corner variant at Norgips (image), seems good as it provides an angle that prevents cracks in the inner corners, or what does the expertise say? It might be hard to keep it angled by hand when driving the first screws though...
Thanks for all the tips I get on this forum!
The sheet is very thin so it doesn't add much. Regarding the screw head at the ceiling and floor, if you use "loppor" (installation screw 13mm), it doesn't add much either, or you can buy a fastening pliers to clamp the stud and the track.
Thank you for the answers!