1. Lower the ceiling height as little as possible with battens or 45mm studs that you level. 2. Respect the house's style, do not use gypsum. 3. Spotlights are inappropriate in a 100-year-old house, maybe okay in the hall or bathroom says the Style Police 
I have to say that I also react to both the quite dramatic lowering of the ceiling and the spackle in an old house. , and spackles that have also become quite outdated now...
I assume you want a completely flat ceiling? like plasterboard smoothed. I might not be the right person to ask for advice, though, because I failed miserably with this in the garage, all the short joints have cracked.
I got so fed up with all that, both the work with strips, spackling, painting, which ended up being terrible, so all the ceilings in the house became Forestia? ceiling tiles (kind of like Huntonit, but 60x120).
But otherwise, my thoughts are like this, the trickiest part is to prevent the plaster joints from cracking.
And metal studs move the least, and consider metal strip for plaster for support behind all the plaster joints.
If you go with wooden studs, you'll need additional support everywhere there are joints.
If you don't have material behind where you're screwing the board in, absolutely everywhere there's a plaster joint, you'll inevitably get a crack later.
, and spackles that have also become quite outdated now... I assume you want a completely flat ceiling? like plasterboard smoothed. I might not be the right person to ask for advice, though, because I failed miserably with this in the garage, all the short joints have cracked.
I got so fed up with all that, both the work with strips, spackling, painting, which ended up being terrible, so all the ceilings in the house became Forestia? ceiling tiles (kind of like Huntonit, but 60x120).
But otherwise, my thoughts are like this, the trickiest part is to prevent the plaster joints from cracking.
And metal studs move the least, and consider metal strip for plaster for support behind all the plaster joints.
If you go with wooden studs, you'll need additional support everywhere there are joints.
If you don't have material behind where you're screwing the board in, absolutely everywhere there's a plaster joint, you'll inevitably get a crack later.
Whatever you like, even if it happens to be spotlights.Immobil said:
Otherwise, it depends on the room, the purpose of the lighting, and preferences. A hanging screen lamp with fabric might not be the first choice in the bathroom for most people. (However, crystal chandeliers in bathrooms have been somewhat trendy for a while now
)I personally built without a single spotlight and was proud of it (although not entirely, there were two in the fan hood, but I didn't bother to remove them and try to weld the holes, so they stayed there). Then when the staircase, hallway upstairs, and bathroom upstairs were finished, the kids got to decide quite a bit (like their bathroom, their hall), and my daughter insisted on spotlights, so now there are spotlights in the staircase, the upstairs hallway, and the upstairs bathroom. There's also a mirror light in the bathroom.
Otherwise, we have ceiling lights in various designs in 4 bedrooms, 1 in the kitchen. Fluorescent lights in the kitchen (cleaning light) and in the laundry room. A porcelain globe on the ceiling in the bathroom downstairs (but IKEA's variant, with a brushed steel ring around the socket). An old-fashioned pendant fixture in art-deco style in the living room, a type of porcelain globe in the hallway, but with clear glass and an open globe (more like an upside-down flower vase type). An old "rod with 4 GU-10 spotlights" in the side hall, it's just there until we figure out what should be there, so far it's taken 10 years, probably another 10 years more... A pendant fixture over the kitchen table, with 2 lamp shades somewhat resembling a cobbler's lamp that sit on a rod.
I might have forgotten something. I'm not entirely happy with everything, some things I want to change, some I regret, and it's hard to change (well, it's probably the fluorescent lights in the kitchen ceiling).
The simplest way to level a ceiling is to screw battens into the ceiling with "karmskruv" (I don't know what it's called in Sweden, but simply a screw with a thread near the head that holds the batten so you can adjust the "height" of the batten).
Then use a line laser and measure from the laser line up to the batten to ensure all measurements are the same, then place wedges under the battens so everything becomes stable and good!
Then use a line laser and measure from the laser line up to the batten to ensure all measurements are the same, then place wedges under the battens so everything becomes stable and good!