Hello!
Amateur carpenter Magnus here!
I am going to insulate our new 10sqm storage shed and have a few questions about it.
Should I install horizontal studs between the vertical ones? If 'yes', what distance should I have between them?
Is the wiring done after I've insulated, or?
What's the easiest way to create the air gap?
Should I have one ventilation hole or two?
All other tips are greatly appreciated!
Best regards,
M
Amateur carpenter Magnus here!
I am going to insulate our new 10sqm storage shed and have a few questions about it.
Should I install horizontal studs between the vertical ones? If 'yes', what distance should I have between them?
Is the wiring done after I've insulated, or?
What's the easiest way to create the air gap?
Should I have one ventilation hole or two?
All other tips are greatly appreciated!
Best regards,
M
if you are going to have vertical paneling, you need studs, otherwise there is nothing to attach it to, and 45 mm extra insulation is good. cc60 mm between
depends a bit on what it looks like but start by running the conduit for the electricity and then insulation. and if you have surface-mounted electricity, that's the last thing you do.
you fix the air gap with I don't know what it's called but size 45*about 10 mm I believe is usually of poor quality to keep it cheap
ventilation holes? do you mean in the ridge, then go for one
depends a bit on what it looks like but start by running the conduit for the electricity and then insulation. and if you have surface-mounted electricity, that's the last thing you do.
you fix the air gap with I don't know what it's called but size 45*about 10 mm I believe is usually of poor quality to keep it cheap
ventilation holes? do you mean in the ridge, then go for one
A typical example of a modern insulated wall can look like this (from outside to inside)
Panel, air gap, wind barrier (e.g., outdoor gypsum asfaboard or windproofing fabric), frame construction with insulation, moisture barrier (plastic), 45X45 extra studs with insulation, in this layer the electrical wiring is also run, interior wall (gypsum board or similar)
Panel, air gap, wind barrier (e.g., outdoor gypsum asfaboard or windproofing fabric), frame construction with insulation, moisture barrier (plastic), 45X45 extra studs with insulation, in this layer the electrical wiring is also run, interior wall (gypsum board or similar)
I would probably put studs 45x45 after insulating and stapling up the plastic. As mats_o recommended. You can place the studs horizontally or vertically on the existing ones. It depends on what you want on the walls, boards or vertical paneling. cc 600 mm between the studs.
The air gap, is it at the eaves?
Install 2 vents, one in each gable so there is some draft if that's what you mean by ventilation holes.
The air gap, is it at the eaves?
Install 2 vents, one in each gable so there is some draft if that's what you mean by ventilation holes.
Good advice and tips!I've been out in the shed and had a look today and what I found was (from the outside in):
1. Panel
2. Some kind of narrow studs (battens?)
3. A fabric that says wind... yeah, it's kind of windproof.
4. Vertical studs
So it only needs insulation and surface layer then maybe?
Insulation, moisture barrier, and surface coatings are the minimum. If you want heating, you must not skip the moisture barrier because the moisture will travel from the warm room and condense in the insulation.
I do it like this:
1. insulation
2. Electrical installation
3. Age-resistant plastic
4. Surface layer (plywood? or another wooden board)
I hope that will work.
1. insulation
2. Electrical installation
3. Age-resistant plastic
4. Surface layer (plywood? or another wooden board)
I hope that will work.
Good!mats_o said:
Air gap in the roof - how do I make it? On our upper floor, they installed some kind of grooved foam (styrofoam) as an air gap. Can I do it another way?
Hmm, well the roof on the carport/storage looks the same as the house roof. /\mats_o said:Depends a bit on that
Are you going to have a cathedral ceiling or a regular one plus an unheated attic, or how have you planned it?
I want it insulated in the roof just like in the walls since I plan to have stuff up there. It will be a small "attic"
There are a few options
If you make the room isolated and the attic non-isolated, you start by putting gypsum or plyfa at the bottom, plastic on top of it. Above that, you can take 22X95 cc 30 cm as slats. Then come the studs from the roof trusses and between them you place the insulation.
If you make the room isolated and the attic non-isolated, you start by putting gypsum or plyfa at the bottom, plastic on top of it. Above that, you can take 22X95 cc 30 cm as slats. Then come the studs from the roof trusses and between them you place the insulation.
mats_o said:There are some options then
If you make the room insulated and the attic uninsulated, you put drywall or plywood at the bottom, plastic on top of that. Above that, you can take, for example, 22X95 cc 30 cm as battens. Then come the beams from the roof trusses, and in between, you lay the insulation.
Ok, but if I want the ceiling to be insulated like the rest, should I do the same there as in the walls? Except for the air gap? By "at the bottom" you mean the surface layer, right?Then I wonder, again, how I set horizontal "beams" in the walls. The existing ones are vertical. I assume, in my amateurishness
that I need cross beams too for stability.So, battens crosswise in the ceiling between the beams, then tar paper, then insulation? Or?!
I'm learning as I go! Thanks for the help so far!
No bitumen felt in the roof.
The same moisture barrier as in the wall Overlap by 20 cm and tape with special tape. Warm moist air rises, so we need to stop it. Above the insulation, no wind barrier is needed.
At the bottom of the roof, there will be a surface layer, yes
The ones running across in the walls have almost no stabilizing function at all but are more to prevent having solid wood all the way through the wall. Stabilization is done with nail/hole bands which are drawn diagonally in the wall. Then when the panels are added, they provide much of the wall's stability.
It works the same way as an Ikea wardrobe, flimsy until you nail the panel on the back that stabilizes it. In housing, the panels are just a bit larger and heavier
The same moisture barrier as in the wall
Overlap by 20 cm and tape with special tape. Warm moist air rises, so we need to stop it. Above the insulation, no wind barrier is needed. At the bottom of the roof, there will be a surface layer, yes
The ones running across in the walls have almost no stabilizing function at all but are more to prevent having solid wood all the way through the wall. Stabilization is done with nail/hole bands which are drawn diagonally in the wall. Then when the panels are added, they provide much of the wall's stability.
It works the same way as an Ikea wardrobe, flimsy until you nail the panel on the back that stabilizes it. In housing, the panels are just a bit larger and heavier
Hmm.. the rafters in the small storage are sparse. How do I go about "framing up"? Should the dimension of the stud be like the rafter? How do I attach the studs? Brackets? Gah..
Anyway, I've now insulated the walls and need to figure out what I need for the electricity. How many outlets, xx meters of conduit, etc. Then I'll get the electrician here to connect the electricity. After that, the plastic goes on and then the surface layer. This part feels relatively clear. The ceiling, however, is a bit unclear in my mind.
How do I go about "framing up"? Should the dimension of the stud be like the rafter? How do I attach the studs? Brackets? Gah.. Anyway, I've now insulated the walls and need to figure out what I need for the electricity. How many outlets, xx meters of conduit, etc. Then I'll get the electrician here to connect the electricity. After that, the plastic goes on and then the surface layer. This part feels relatively clear. The ceiling, however, is a bit unclear in my mind.