Here is an old thread about this:
http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1064347234;start=5#5
http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1064347234;start=5#5
Hello again!
I don't think you should put any net on the wall before plastering it. Knock off everything that's loose (don't overdo it!) and replaster with a mortar suitable for concrete. It is crucial to pre-water thoroughly (important!!!) before applying new plaster. You will be surprised how well it adheres to the wall. I certainly was. When all the loose plaster was chipped off, I could see the straw (insulation?!?) sticking out here and there. I didn't believe I could get it in order again and was close to a nervous breakdown.... but you should see it now! It's more than adequate for a basement wall, if I may say so myself. I didn't try to throw the new plaster like the pros do but used a "skånska" (metal trowel with a handle) to press the plaster against the wall. It's similar to plastering. Some fell onto the floor but only from the trowel and not from the wall! Then you have to smooth the new surface with the plastering trowel before it hardens. If it's cement plaster, it hardens quickly, so you should mix the plaster in portions and work in batches = 2-3m2 at a time. A good piece of advice: buy the right tools before you start = "skånska" + plastering trowel and don't fiddle with a triangular mason's trowel like I did and regretted! Some square meters turned out less well. Regarding the type of plaster mortar - ask in the store, they know what you need - Finja and Optirock products - search their websites. One of them has so-called "repair mortar." The finer the sand mixed in, the smoother the surface you get. You might need to acquire the sand separately and mix according to instructions. If you have deep holes, fill them in stages. If an old lady managed to plaster a basement wall, then anyone can do it. You get a neat and durable wall surface for a low cost. Tools are expensive, but you might get more occasions to use them once you get started. Begin in a spot where the finish isn't so important and work your way up to the showcase wall. Rubber gloves are a must, even for the tough ones, as the mortar dries out the skin and is somewhat corrosive (cement). It's not as hard as you might think. My experiences are limited to about 30m3 of wall surface plastered with LIME PLASTER, so I hope you get more good advice from other sources.
Good luck!
gaia
I don't think you should put any net on the wall before plastering it. Knock off everything that's loose (don't overdo it!) and replaster with a mortar suitable for concrete. It is crucial to pre-water thoroughly (important!!!) before applying new plaster. You will be surprised how well it adheres to the wall. I certainly was. When all the loose plaster was chipped off, I could see the straw (insulation?!?) sticking out here and there. I didn't believe I could get it in order again and was close to a nervous breakdown.... but you should see it now! It's more than adequate for a basement wall, if I may say so myself. I didn't try to throw the new plaster like the pros do but used a "skånska" (metal trowel with a handle) to press the plaster against the wall. It's similar to plastering. Some fell onto the floor but only from the trowel and not from the wall! Then you have to smooth the new surface with the plastering trowel before it hardens. If it's cement plaster, it hardens quickly, so you should mix the plaster in portions and work in batches = 2-3m2 at a time. A good piece of advice: buy the right tools before you start = "skånska" + plastering trowel and don't fiddle with a triangular mason's trowel like I did and regretted! Some square meters turned out less well. Regarding the type of plaster mortar - ask in the store, they know what you need - Finja and Optirock products - search their websites. One of them has so-called "repair mortar." The finer the sand mixed in, the smoother the surface you get. You might need to acquire the sand separately and mix according to instructions. If you have deep holes, fill them in stages. If an old lady managed to plaster a basement wall, then anyone can do it. You get a neat and durable wall surface for a low cost. Tools are expensive, but you might get more occasions to use them once you get started. Begin in a spot where the finish isn't so important and work your way up to the showcase wall. Rubber gloves are a must, even for the tough ones, as the mortar dries out the skin and is somewhat corrosive (cement). It's not as hard as you might think. My experiences are limited to about 30m3 of wall surface plastered with LIME PLASTER, so I hope you get more good advice from other sources.
Good luck!
gaia
How long does it take approximately for a plastering beginner to plaster 3x2 meters? (Hours/days/week?)
Hello,
Can I join in here? I also have an old basement wall where the plaster has started to come off and here and there are deeper holes (craters) after large screws etc. How aggressively do you need to treat the old plaster, can you apply plaster directly on it where the straw (insulation?) is, do you need to use a base coat or primer? I plan to use lime plaster because the house is from 1946, and I believe the old wall was plastered with it - any other suggestions?
Bohult
Can I join in here? I also have an old basement wall where the plaster has started to come off and here and there are deeper holes (craters) after large screws etc. How aggressively do you need to treat the old plaster, can you apply plaster directly on it where the straw (insulation?) is, do you need to use a base coat or primer? I plan to use lime plaster because the house is from 1946, and I believe the old wall was plastered with it - any other suggestions?
Bohult
Hello Bohult!
If you don't have any straw in the walls, you don't need to get any either. Otherwise, you can just fill in with lime plaster and smooth out the surface nicely in the end - it adheres well. Do exactly as it was done: and use the same type of plaster!!!! If you have lime plaster on the walls, then only lime plaster is to be used for repairs - important! Take a piece to the building market, and maybe there's someone who can tell you what kind of plaster you have. I guess that 1946 is likely lime plaster.
You shouldn't be too hard on the old stuff! Remove all the loose parts and what's crumbly, but don't tear off the plaster where it's sitting well. Often, it's closest to the floor that it's most damaged and porous, and that you can easily remove. If the walls are painted, you must remove the paint before you can plaster.
I didn't use any priming - just water or lime water from the bucket where I cleaned my tools
.
No primer needed. Don't forget to water, water, water before and after plastering. Otherwise, you can get dry cracks - nothing dangerous and can be plastered over again. I filled holes deeper than 5 cm in 2 rounds. It took a long time to dry in the worst places (months), but in the end, it turned out really well. The plaster is still holding up.
gaia
If you don't have any straw in the walls, you don't need to get any either. Otherwise, you can just fill in with lime plaster and smooth out the surface nicely in the end - it adheres well. Do exactly as it was done: and use the same type of plaster!!!! If you have lime plaster on the walls, then only lime plaster is to be used for repairs - important! Take a piece to the building market, and maybe there's someone who can tell you what kind of plaster you have. I guess that 1946 is likely lime plaster.
You shouldn't be too hard on the old stuff! Remove all the loose parts and what's crumbly, but don't tear off the plaster where it's sitting well. Often, it's closest to the floor that it's most damaged and porous, and that you can easily remove. If the walls are painted, you must remove the paint before you can plaster.
I didn't use any priming - just water or lime water from the bucket where I cleaned my tools
. No primer needed. Don't forget to water, water, water before and after plastering. Otherwise, you can get dry cracks - nothing dangerous and can be plastered over again. I filled holes deeper than 5 cm in 2 rounds. It took a long time to dry in the worst places (months), but in the end, it turned out really well. The plaster is still holding up
. gaia
Hello,
Thank you so much for your reply, I have been on vacation and not very active online. The insulation that is in the current wall is called, according to a friend from Skåne, nikeplattor and consists of wood/cement, not straw as I initially thought.
Bohult
Thank you so much for your reply, I have been on vacation and not very active online. The insulation that is in the current wall is called, according to a friend from Skåne, nikeplattor and consists of wood/cement, not straw as I initially thought
.Bohult