Hello,
This kitchen renovation was more than simple, now we've noticed there's missing floor under the base cabinets, but only in certain places. The rest of the floor is 2cm thick floorboards and then there are masonite boards (I think that's what they're called, a brown one that's glossy on top) and then linoleum directly on top. Under the floorboards, there's about a 20cm thick layer of sawdust and then concrete beneath that.
We're going to install new linoleum in the entire kitchen, so we need to build up the floor where it's missing. HOW DO WE DO IT?
Ideally, it should have been fixed already yesterday.
Can we screw battens into the wall and into the existing wooden floor and then lay on chipboard and then masonite board to get the same height as the rest of the floor? Are there any special chipboard/masonite boards that should be used (if we can do that) or should they be a specific type?
I also want to quickly ask if it's allowed to seal old radiator pipes under the floor or if they have to be visible? Right now they're sticking up 10cm where we've removed cabinets, and we are not going to replace them with new ones, but we will have an open floor.
I hope for a quick response as we need to buy everything to build up the floor today so I can fix it tomorrow while my husband is at work.
/Kristina
This kitchen renovation was more than simple, now we've noticed there's missing floor under the base cabinets, but only in certain places. The rest of the floor is 2cm thick floorboards and then there are masonite boards (I think that's what they're called, a brown one that's glossy on top) and then linoleum directly on top. Under the floorboards, there's about a 20cm thick layer of sawdust and then concrete beneath that.
We're going to install new linoleum in the entire kitchen, so we need to build up the floor where it's missing. HOW DO WE DO IT?
Ideally, it should have been fixed already yesterday.Can we screw battens into the wall and into the existing wooden floor and then lay on chipboard and then masonite board to get the same height as the rest of the floor? Are there any special chipboard/masonite boards that should be used (if we can do that) or should they be a specific type?
I also want to quickly ask if it's allowed to seal old radiator pipes under the floor or if they have to be visible? Right now they're sticking up 10cm where we've removed cabinets, and we are not going to replace them with new ones, but we will have an open floor.
I hope for a quick response as we need to buy everything to build up the floor today so I can fix it tomorrow while my husband is at work.
/Kristina
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 8 592 posts
Yes, it's probably no problem - if the wall is sturdy enough - on the other hand, maybe even the "new" floor shouldn't be loaded - so it's probably no problem.
I'm more doubtful about building up the floor with concrete+sawdust+tongue/groove board - unless the concrete is insulated from below (??) it's a recipe for future moisture/mold problems because the concrete will transport ground moisture over the years
Otherwise, I think your plan sounds good. You can probably plug the radiator pipes down in the floor - even if it's not optimal if they start to leak - but shouldn't they preferably be bridged?
/K
I'm more doubtful about building up the floor with concrete+sawdust+tongue/groove board - unless the concrete is insulated from below (??) it's a recipe for future moisture/mold problems because the concrete will transport ground moisture over the years
Otherwise, I think your plan sounds good. You can probably plug the radiator pipes down in the floor - even if it's not optimal if they start to leak - but shouldn't they preferably be bridged?
/K
The new part won't be loaded, it's under the sink and under where we're going to have two tall cabinets where the floor is missing. The tall cabinets will rest on a board at the back of the wall and then on legs at the front, and they will be on the floor that exists today. There's about 20cm missing from the wall.klaskarlsson said:Yes, it shouldn't be a problem - if the wall is sturdy enough then - on the other hand, maybe not even the "new" floor should be loaded - so it shouldn't be a problem.
I'm more doubtful about building up the floor with concrete + kutterspån + tongue/groove board - if the concrete isn't insulated from below (??) then it's prone to future moisture/mold problems because the concrete will transport ground moisture over the years
Otherwise, I think your plan sounds good. You can probably plug the heating pipes at the floor level - although it's not optimal if they start to leak - but shouldn't you ideally bridge them?
/K
Can you use any chipboard, or does it have to be floor-grade chipboard? I need to try to find something that matches the thickness of the raw tongue and groove boards.
We have a basement and the house was built in '63. Even all the walls in the house have chipboard as insulation, and apparently, the floor does too. The basement is heated.
We will hire a plumber for all the water piping. If we can't plug them under the floor anyway, he doesn't need to come here now. Otherwise, he needs to come quickly so we can rebuild the floor before the flooring guy comes next week. I'll see if I can reach him this afternoon then I can ask him about the pipes.
Thanks for your reply.
/K
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 8 592 posts
Chipboard or regular doesn't matter to you - it's just a question of how much it can be loaded (springiness, etc.) - and since this is under your cabinets it doesn't matter
However, regular chipboard is 12mm thick, and flooring chipboard is 22mm - so it might be easier to fit to the tongue with flooring chipboard?
/K
However, regular chipboard is 12mm thick, and flooring chipboard is 22mm - so it might be easier to fit to the tongue with flooring chipboard?
/K
How lucky, I just measured the raw boards and they were 22mm, so it's easiest with floor chipboard then. If they don't have a great price on raw boards, then we might as well use them.klaskarlsson said:
What I'm wondering a bit about is what the floor layer will say when he comes to lay the plastic flooring over hardboard, even if it was done in the past, it might not be liked today. He's in Mallorca right now, otherwise I would have called and asked him.
/Kristina
But how the heck do you build up from the concrete surface? I have no desire to dig out all the sawdust (20cm deep) if I absolutely don't have to.anaitis said:
The largest area is 120*50cm that needs to be re-done. A while ago, I uncovered one of the floor joists not too far in, thinking I would attach the new joist to it. The joist on the wall is already there from before.
We need to "repair" the floor just to get the vinyl flooring all the way to the wall and then tucked up a bit on the wall. So no direct load.
/Kristina