C
In short, how do you proceed?
According to Finja's work instructions, you should use 2-3 different types of mortar, mesh, 20 different tools and do a lot of fixing and tweaking. I'm thinking of starting to apply the panel, so I need to get the plastering done first, how do I do this as smoothly as possible? Can it be done despite the current weather conditions? (Cold, maybe freezing temperatures at night.)
 
Cold temperatures are not great, right?
But otherwise, I would think that one type of mortar, a trowel, and a grater would be sufficient. :)
 
C
What kind of mortar? I have a Norwegian trowel (large triangle with a balanced handle), so that should work. Can you make a "float" yourself, or is it something you buy?

I was thinking of plastering 5 cm down on the edge elements too, which have fiber cement on them, that should be doable, right? I have a bottle of Finja's primer that I plan to apply to the entire leca edge and the five centimeters I will plaster there.
 
I want to remember that I used Puts & Murbruk C when the lecating on my garage was plastered.
Moistened (threw on water) with the lime brush.
Threw on the mortar, mixed according to the bag, and gently spread it out.

Still holding up, and looks totally fine. :)
 
Mikael_L
I plastered with only one mortar, I think it was maxit's plaster&mortar C that I used, but it might have been B too, I can check.
I splashed a bit of water beforehand, pre-watering, which I was told isn't necessary on leca, but it doesn't hurt either.
Mixed half a bag of mortar at a time in a Biltema masonry bucket with a low-speed drill and a cheap mixer from byggmax. (A knowledgeable mason would definitely have mixed a larger amount!)

I applied the mortar with a masonry trowel from byggmax and spread it as best I could and smoothed it out with a byggmax plastic smoothing tool. I applied it as thinly as I could, about 2-3 mm ... And I made the mortar slightly, slightly looser than specified on the package, you can experiment with it.
I spread, stroked, and fiddled until I thought it looked good.
Finally, I carefully smoothed it out with a wet masonry brush.

On the inside, I ran the bottom of a 33cl glass bottle between the floor and the Leca wall to create a nice concave. So, I ran it with the bottom of the bottle directed towards the slab, but slightly tilted, meaning not a 3 cm radius on the concave...

It worked well for me with a single cement product and simple and cheap tools (those byggmax items I mentioned are incredibly cheap compared to what everyone else sells them for), but maybe it was just because I'm a total newbie and didn't understand that it wouldn't work... ;)

But I don't think you should plaster at temperatures below 10 degrees though.

Read everything that seems interesting here, and you'll get more knowledge.
http://www.maxit.se/33548/
 
C
Well, I can't leave the garage with just wind protection and without siding all winter, and once I have it on, I can't get to plastering, so it simply has to work anyway, even if it's cold. It doesn't sound that advanced anyway.
 
Mikael_L
In Skåne you still have some days with around 10 degrees, right? You can cover it with one (or two layers) of tarpaulin or something after you've done the masonry, so it won't be as cold at night for the plastered part—the ground provides warmth. In these low temperatures, it probably takes several days for the plastering to cure completely.
 
C
I already have a mixer and a bucket, as well as a trowel. What I need, therefore, is a stålskånska (or plastskånska) and a brush? And a 33 cl bottle. ^^
 
Mikael_L
You might manage without the skånskan or the brush ...
I almost think I mixed two different techniques... but oh well, it worked anyway.
 
C
Something like this: Mix the render mortar with water as stated on the bag. Apply the mix onto the leca stones in any way you like. Smooth out the mix nicely in any way you like. Done.

What did you think about rendering on the edge elements, if you prime first?
 
I would recommend that you start by applying an a-putsbruk first. Maxits is called "Rödgrund 103". Make a porridge-like consistency and brush it into the lecan. This will give you a good base for the next layer of plaster, which should preferably be a B-putsbruk. The A-bruk (e.g., Rödgrund 103) seals the cavities and prevents grid patterns in the leca wall during humid weather. The grid pattern occurs because the lecan is porous and the mortar between the stones is less porous.

It's easy to see who has been careless and skipped the A-bruk when the rain comes...

See the following image - the wall to the right of the arch is NOT primed with A-bruk:
 
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Don't know if you've already started with the rendering, but if you haven't and are still worried about frost, there is anti-frost solution you can mix in, available for purchase at building supply stores.
 
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