Called and asked the local lumber store for studs that were 90 wide, 78.5 deep but they neither had them nor could get them.
The alternatives were to take glulam beams and saw them down = expensive.
Or two pieces of 45x90 and join them together. Saw down one of them and then get a combined size of 90x78.5... The sawing job was neither expensive nor time-consuming either.
I am having difficulty measuring the exact size of existing studs right now without calipers.
What do you think about this, is it perhaps the simplest solution? What is the most suitable way to join these two and what is the easiest way to fit them between the horizontal boards at the floor and the ceiling?
(I am going to reinforce a load-bearing wall)
The alternatives were to take glulam beams and saw them down = expensive.
Or two pieces of 45x90 and join them together. Saw down one of them and then get a combined size of 90x78.5... The sawing job was neither expensive nor time-consuming either.
I am having difficulty measuring the exact size of existing studs right now without calipers.
What do you think about this, is it perhaps the simplest solution? What is the most suitable way to join these two and what is the easiest way to fit them between the horizontal boards at the floor and the ceiling?
(I am going to reinforce a load-bearing wall)
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Own sawmill, or do as suggested, join two and saw or plane down 11.5 mm. Is the wall 90 mm or 78.5 mm thick?
the wall is ~78.5 thick/deep without the panels...
if you need studs that are almost a whole meter wide, it will likely be expensive. Are they really 900mm x 785mm?
If it's only about 78.5mm, a sawmill should be able to fix it for you without any problems.
But if you're just reinforcing the wall, I think it should work with regular 45x70.
If it's only about 78.5mm, a sawmill should be able to fix it for you without any problems.
But if you're just reinforcing the wall, I think it should work with regular 45x70.
Oops, typed it quite wrong, it's all 45x78.5...
Ideally, I'd like the drywall to be able to rest against these, otherwise I agree that it would be just taking something.
The alternative of laying something like Masonite was also mentioned by the building center, but for me, it feels like tempting fate with the risk that it becomes uneven and so on.
However, now that everyone is mentioning sawmills, it occurred to me that we have two sketchy sawmills out in the woods that we could visit and inquire about.
These will not be visible but hidden behind new gypsum walls next to the existing studs that are too far apart and too narrow... better too much than too little - now that all the walls are open at least...
Ideally, I'd like the drywall to be able to rest against these, otherwise I agree that it would be just taking something.
The alternative of laying something like Masonite was also mentioned by the building center, but for me, it feels like tempting fate with the risk that it becomes uneven and so on.
However, now that everyone is mentioning sawmills, it occurred to me that we have two sketchy sawmills out in the woods that we could visit and inquire about.
These will not be visible but hidden behind new gypsum walls next to the existing studs that are too far apart and too narrow... better too much than too little - now that all the walls are open at least...
Thank you, but please adjust 785 to 78.5 as well 
I already have glasses and am apparently half-blind anyway.
Now fixed
/Mats_o
I already have glasses and am apparently half-blind anyway.
Now fixed
/Mats_o
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Well, I do have my own masonite-clad studs to look at, and sure, it will probably look nice, but it's the precision that worries me. The more parts you have to piece together, the greater the risk that the measurements won't be correct in the end..
but now we forgot that you were going to explain the assembly technique.
I have a load-bearing wall, without boards so you can see the studs, and I need to add more studs...
Let's say I've bought a bunch of 2.5-meter pieces...
* What do I do next… do I measure on each occasion and cut - exactly? or a little short?
* And then I hold it as it will stand, and tap it in straight, or, well how should I describe the painter's suggestion, like place it on the floor and hammer it in at the top...
* and how do you finally mount it, with brackets or nails or what? should there be some silicone in between or bare?
I have a load-bearing wall, without boards so you can see the studs, and I need to add more studs...
Let's say I've bought a bunch of 2.5-meter pieces...
* What do I do next… do I measure on each occasion and cut - exactly? or a little short?
* And then I hold it as it will stand, and tap it in straight, or, well how should I describe the painter's suggestion, like place it on the floor and hammer it in at the top...
* and how do you finally mount it, with brackets or nails or what? should there be some silicone in between or bare?
You can get cheap jacks at Jula. A lying beam +2 supports/extensions for the jacks about 10-20cm from the beams you are replacing. Lift a little and replace/add your support/braces in place. You can attach them with wood glue and regular 90-degree brackets. Lengthwise, BMF plates with anchor nails. If you're unloading 1.5 floor house, the beam should be at least 30cm. I myself would have bought glulam at ByggMax and added it to both sides of the current walls. //the vertical ones you saw exactly. Or a little tight. Nail alternately with 2 nails from each side at a 45-degree angle.
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Now, walls usually don't end up with millimeter precision...
I was supposed to saw down the 45x95 studs, but if that doesn't work, you can always combine 45x45 and 22x45 to make 77x45. The transition from 78.5 can be smoothed over with filler by the painter if it becomes visible, which I doubt.
I was supposed to saw down the 45x95 studs, but if that doesn't work, you can always combine 45x45 and 22x45 to make 77x45. The transition from 78.5 can be smoothed over with filler by the painter if it becomes visible, which I doubt.