Y
A wall that we thought was load-bearing consists only of some thicker studs. But they aren't exactly overly stable, so to speak, unladen…

So I'm about to remove some of those studs, but I feel that I don't want to take a chance - in case they actually were load-bearing... either way, it doesn't hurt to have as much stabilization as possible…

Is it just a matter of placing some heavy-duty studs and pressing between the ceiling and floor, and voila, it's load-bearing, or is it more advanced than that?
 
Y
I have a large opening to the living room, and soon there will be another one. I've stripped the wall panels, so only the studs are left.

I was planning to put a similar, sturdy piece of wood as the first opening has against the ceiling, and install it in the same way over the upcoming opening.

But this was questioned by someone. He also mentioned a metal beam...

How do you calculate how sturdy the materials need to be?
 
Is it a house, apartment?

Do you have a floor plan?
 
Mikael_L
There are some free programs that at least give an indication of what dimensions are needed:
http://www.moelven.com/se/Produkter-och-tjanster/Industritra/Limtra1/lagerbalksprogram/
http://www.byggmagroup.se/dt_article.aspx?m=2461&amid=8736

One thing to also consider in all these kinds of renovations is that all the weight you transfer with a beam has to go somewhere. So the weight that was previously spread along a load-bearing wall is now replaced by two significantly larger point loads, and perhaps the foundation or joists are not dimensioned for this.
 
Y
villa, modular, was originally meant to be an opening there according to mom, but she decided otherwise, so I was surprised that it was load-bearing and not something quickly patched up.

the foundation, torpagrunden, is like a wall underneath there, all the way, so it should handle it...

unfortunately, I don't have a functional camera to photograph the floor plan, and I only have one I've made in 3D for illustration (with real measurements) if that's sufficient? or does the floor plan have some markings and such that reveal something?
 
C
It will probably do, it's usually obvious which walls are load-bearing, unless it's some really tricky construction...
 
Yrrol said:
villa, modul, was actually meant to be an opening there according to mom, but she decided otherwise, so I was surprised that it was load-bearing and not something quickly patched together.

the foundation, torpagrunden, is like a wall under there, all the way, so it should probably handle it...

unfortunately, I don't have a functional camera to take a photo of the floor plan, and I only have one I made in 3D to illustrate (with real measurements) in case that's sufficient? or does the floor plan have some markings and things that reveal something?
Show the image then. Maybe it will be clear if it is load-bearing.
 
Y
A bit of a shame because I had only photographed the simpler floor plan, where it doesn't show that there is another, shorter, wall. Probably on either side around the stairs.

The eerie part is that they have probably bricked up the opening to one half of the house, so if it leaks under the bathroom, I can't get there!?... expensive to make an opening?

According to the alternative floor plans, the upper floor could be designed in various ways, with either one or two small bathrooms, bedrooms, etc...

Today... I have opened the walls around the stairs and plan to put in more studs to really make it withstand when I have insulated the cold attic and run around up there... considering reinforcing around the wc and the wall between the bedrooms. 5.6x8cm studs in these walls... you see the partition wall in the lower bedrooms, just above there are two closets, in between there is a solid thick beam, while the larger opening between the living room and the hall has a somewhat lower thick beam...

red line = wall I have stripped and will make an opening later...
purple line = the extra wall...
thumb-B6EC_4B4B7F13.jpg
(click for full size)
 
The yellow is guaranteed to be load-bearing! You probably have reinforcements up in the ceiling at openings. If you lack them, it is intended that the load from the wall next to it should take over the function.
To remove something, you need to have a beam along the entire house. Even if you think nothing rests on the wall. The need becomes apparent when you have a party upstairs :D
 
  • Floor plan with highlighted load-bearing walls in yellow and architectural cross-section of a house showing roof structure and measurements.
Y
if I now have two openings that are only reinforced, why would I suddenly need to do so drastically much more for the 3rd opening?

indeed, I am considering opening the last inner wall outside the WC and checking as well as installing more robust studs there... and by the stairs...
 
Y
between two lower bedrooms.
between hall and wc
between stairs and living room.
between stairs and kitchen.

so it is 5.6x8cm with a distance of 54.5...

on top of these lies a (horizontally) 3x8cm board between studs and ceiling...

except at the openings... there are sturdier things there...24x7cm is the one into the living room, at the bedrooms it is about 28x7cm...

----

what would be best... that I let the lying boards remain but install more and thick studs, so they stand closer together or something...

or that I cut down the studs and maneuver thicker horizontal beams at the ceiling?
 
Y
I'm a bit concerned about one of the existing glulam beams...

In one part of the corridor, which has a smaller opening, they've placed a very high glulam beam, while the larger opening to the living room has a significantly lower beam. Should I perhaps take the opportunity to remove this one and install a stronger one instead?
 
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