The frame for the extension went up at the end of last year and has overwintered under a temporarily slightly sloping roof consisting of transverse straight beams with plywood on top, sealed with building paper.
Now that I'm about to start putting up the asfan and checking measurements, I can see that the frame has shifted a bit and is leaning outwards. Size-wise, if you place a wall-height spirit level vertically so that it rests against the long side wall down by the floor, there's a difference of about 1.5-2 cm between the spirit level and the wall up at the eaves.
Apparently, the diagonal wooden studs I put up weren't enough, and I curse my stupidity for not putting up the metal straps last winter!
How on earth do I fix this
? Hammer a vertical stud along the long side, hire an excavator to push it back? Unfortunately, there's no natural support in that direction.
I guess it's a good idea to remove the temporary roof first anyway...
Now that I'm about to start putting up the asfan and checking measurements, I can see that the frame has shifted a bit and is leaning outwards. Size-wise, if you place a wall-height spirit level vertically so that it rests against the long side wall down by the floor, there's a difference of about 1.5-2 cm between the spirit level and the wall up at the eaves.
Apparently, the diagonal wooden studs I put up weren't enough, and I curse my stupidity for not putting up the metal straps last winter!
How on earth do I fix this
? Hammer a vertical stud along the long side, hire an excavator to push it back? Unfortunately, there's no natural support in that direction.I guess it's a good idea to remove the temporary roof first anyway...
Tension strap diagonally to the opposing wall and tighten until it's straight, then use a number of adjustable screw props on the plate and binder so you can fine-tune and secure during construction. You can fix it in a day
Ah, it could work, if you get long enough tension straps!
You could even try it with the roof on, if it works it works, otherwise you take it down.
I don't know what adjustable stämp are, though! And I have a crawl space, not a slab. Can you explain in more detail what you mean?
Thank, thank, thank you anyway!
You could even try it with the roof on, if it works it works, otherwise you take it down.
I don't know what adjustable stämp are, though! And I have a crawl space, not a slab. Can you explain in more detail what you mean?
Thank, thank, thank you anyway!
It certainly works, that's how we do all installations to adjust the angle and cross dimensions. A stämp is somewhat like a roughly 3m long turnbuckle, you could say. You screw the ends into the plate (the floor in your case), just be mindful of any floor heating Then you can adjust the stämp while holding a long level against the wall and adjust with millimeter precision. You need one stämp per roughly 2m wall, and you can rent these for a few bucks a day at, for example, Cramo.
Then you can adjust the stämp while holding a long level against the wall and adjust with millimeter precision. You need one stämp per roughly 2m wall, and you can rent these for a few bucks a day at, for example, Cramo.You don't need to have long tension straps either, you can just as well use a rope and short tension strap, if it's only a couple of cm, you might not even need to tension, just adjust with the stämpen directly.
I can once again say "thank you, thank you, thank you"!!!
It went so well with the ratchet straps, (couldn't get hold of props on a Sunday). I didn't dare rely on finding ropes strong enough, so I ended up using ratchet straps in series, and it took almost nothing to straighten the walls.
I THINK I understand what you mean with the props, but not entirely sure (might be good to know for another time).
Is it that if you increase the distance between the floor and ceiling (which in my case is only temporary) (A in my attached image) using the prop, the rhombus-shaped wall straightens into a rectangle? I don't know if I'm describing this understandably, but the image might help...
It went so well with the ratchet straps, (couldn't get hold of props on a Sunday). I didn't dare rely on finding ropes strong enough, so I ended up using ratchet straps in series, and it took almost nothing to straighten the walls.
I THINK I understand what you mean with the props, but not entirely sure (might be good to know for another time).
Is it that if you increase the distance between the floor and ceiling (which in my case is only temporary) (A in my attached image) using the prop, the rhombus-shaped wall straightens into a rectangle? I don't know if I'm describing this understandably, but the image might help...
Glad it worked so well for you
Well, the prop should not be floor-ceiling but floor-wall, meaning you "lean" them against the wall at, for example, a 30-degree angle and then screw them in at both ends. You can "screw" the top of the wall in or out while the bottom is fixed to the floor. These props can ideally remain in place throughout the entire frame assembly, so nothing moves during the process, making everything much smoother and faster since you won't have to keep checking all the time.
Well, the prop should not be floor-ceiling but floor-wall, meaning you "lean" them against the wall at, for example, a 30-degree angle and then screw them in at both ends. You can "screw" the top of the wall in or out while the bottom is fixed to the floor. These props can ideally remain in place throughout the entire frame assembly, so nothing moves during the process, making everything much smoother and faster since you won't have to keep checking all the time.
Crebel said:
Oh, that sounds good! Since I'm building by myself and slowly, I should probably buy a bunch of those used instead of renting.
Is there a type with adjustable heads for this purpose? The ones I find pictures of seem to be for straight attachment between the floor and ceiling.
Otherwise, maybe you can screw a piece of wood into the floor and wall for the prop to brace against?
Is there a type with adjustable heads for this purpose? The ones I find pictures of seem to be for straight attachment between the floor and ceiling.
Otherwise, maybe you can screw a piece of wood into the floor and wall for the prop to brace against?
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
In Norrland, we usually tie a chain to the back of the Volvo and pull it until it's straight!
The ones I have are articulated at both ends, if you look around a bit on Blocket you will surely find something or if you are handy with a welder and an angle grinder, you make your own by cutting an M12 turnbuckle in half and welding it to the ends of a 3m long 30x30mm square tube. It will cost you about 100 SEK each in materials and may take about 5 hours to manufacture if you have access to a welder.
I was actually considering the volvo before Tossegubbe came up with a better suggestion . But it would have been difficult due to the placement of the extension, etc.
Now I have bought 10 props, not adjustable, but I'll have to come up with something using blocks or similar.
Unfortunately, I can't weld even though it's on the wishlist to learn...
Now I'm going out to set up the props!
. But it would have been difficult due to the placement of the extension, etc.Now I have bought 10 props, not adjustable, but I'll have to come up with something using blocks or similar.
Unfortunately, I can't weld even though it's on the wishlist to learn...
Now I'm going out to set up the props!
Good luck!