Here's the thing, I need to remove 2 door frames, frames that go all the way up to the ceiling, and instead install drywall from the ceiling down a bit. Now I'm COMPLETELY inexperienced when it comes to all this stuff and I'm wondering if there's someone who has the time and inclination to give me a guided tour on how to go about it =)
So the walls are drywall, and the entire wall will be repainted later.
So the walls are drywall, and the entire wall will be repainted later.
Here's how I do it:
Remove the moldings. Take out the frames and you'll see how the wall is constructed. If it's a newer wall, you can use the same materials and dimensions as in the rest of the wall. You probably set studs around the door opening so that you have support under all the eventual joints in the panel material. Also, place a vertical stud in the middle of the door opening (unless it's a double door). Throw in some insulation if you want to eliminate the resonance in the wall. Screw in the panel material. If it's drywall, bevel the joints (there are special tools for that if you want to do a neat job), apply a fiberglass tape, and spackle. Paint. Done!
Remove the moldings. Take out the frames and you'll see how the wall is constructed. If it's a newer wall, you can use the same materials and dimensions as in the rest of the wall. You probably set studs around the door opening so that you have support under all the eventual joints in the panel material. Also, place a vertical stud in the middle of the door opening (unless it's a double door). Throw in some insulation if you want to eliminate the resonance in the wall. Screw in the panel material. If it's drywall, bevel the joints (there are special tools for that if you want to do a neat job), apply a fiberglass tape, and spackle. Paint. Done!
I recommend paper tape.
As a pure test I used fiberglass tape on half of the seams on the garage walls, paper tape on the others.
The result was uncanny. After a year:
100% of the fiberglass taped seams have cracked, 0% of the paper taped seams.
As a pure test I used fiberglass tape on half of the seams on the garage walls, paper tape on the others.
The result was uncanny. After a year:
100% of the fiberglass taped seams have cracked, 0% of the paper taped seams.
One more addition:
I see now that you didn't want to completely build over the doorway. In that case, you might be able to skip the vertical stud. Just make sure not to have too large a distance between the studs (max 600mm for double drywall). It might also be best to cut the door frame and keep the lower part.
I see now that you didn't want to completely build over the doorway. In that case, you might be able to skip the vertical stud. Just make sure not to have too large a distance between the studs (max 600mm for double drywall). It might also be best to cut the door frame and keep the lower part.
Oh no, nothing so dramatic.
The joint has moved very minimally, so the paint has cracked into a hairline crack along the entire board joint.
The movement and the crack are so small that I strongly doubt it could have even been noticed if it were wallpaper, but paint cracks quite distinctly and is easy to see.
I can easily live with it in just the garage, but on a painted wall in the residence, I would obviously have been quite upset about it.
The joint has moved very minimally, so the paint has cracked into a hairline crack along the entire board joint.
The movement and the crack are so small that I strongly doubt it could have even been noticed if it were wallpaper, but paint cracks quite distinctly and is easy to see.
I can easily live with it in just the garage, but on a painted wall in the residence, I would obviously have been quite upset about it.