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11 replies
1k views
11 replies
Installation layer in Garage - Thumbs up or thumbs down?
I know many people do this differently, what are the reasons for and against it? And now we're talking about a heated garage.
What I've most often heard:
What I've most often heard:
- Electricity can be run in the installation layer, avoiding holes in the diffusion plastic/vapor barrier.
- When you put things up on the walls, you don't puncture the plastic.
The insulation retains the air that has been heated, so if you need those extra centimeters of insulation, install it. Not making holes in the plastic layer is a very strong argument for an installation layer - it can be less than 45mm and "only" a sparse panel. What needs to have space is a VP hose, and then you can choose screws based on the thickness of the installation layer and board/boards.
Thanks for your reply. You mean you can set the installation layer without insulation, if it's not needed? Then also with a 25mm batten instead, if the VP hose fits..?T Testarn said:The insulation retains the air that has been warmed up, so if you need those extra centimeters of insulation, go ahead and install it.
The fact that you don't make holes in the plastic layer is a very strong argument for the installation layer – it can then be less than 45mm and "just" a batten board. What needs to be accommodated is a VP hose, and then you choose the screw based on the thickness of the installation layer and board/boards.
Hobby electrician
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If you're going to do a complete recessed (electrical) installation, you want to be able to fit the socket as well, and then I would claim that 45 mm is the minimum.T Testarn said:The insulation retains the air that has been heated, so if you need those extra centimeters of insulation, then add it.
The fact that you don't make holes in the plastic layer is a very strong argument for the installation layer - it can be less than 45mm and "just" a sparse panel. What should be accommodated is a VP-slang, and then you choose a screw according to the thickness of the installation layer and board/boards.
Yes, it's called an installation layer so that electrical conduits can be laid there, and the plastic is then at the same distance as the battens or studs. Then you screw OSB/gypsum onto the battens after the electrical conduits are installed. This reduces the risk of moisture from the living space reaching the insulation. Whether to install insulation in the installation layer or not depends on whether you have enough insulation in the rest of the wall. We have vertical studs in the frame, 45x170, with insulation and vapor-tight plastic, then horizontal 45x45 with insulation as the installation layer, and it is also insulated there to achieve sufficient insulation thickness. Initially, the designer added an additional 28x70 vertical that wasn't supposed to be insulated for the installation layer, but after some discussion with the designer, we decided it was perfectly fine to skip it since it made the walls unnecessarily thick and we "lost" space in the rooms.
Then another thought came up.. If you run all the electricity in the installation layer, how should the VP pipes be placed? Should they be attached with clamps next to the battens?
Or do you fix them with clamps on the studs and nail through the plastic?
Or do you fix them with clamps on the studs and nail through the plastic?
Aren't you going to use conduit?Nilsanni said:
You attach the clamp to whatever you use to create an installation layer, battens, or 45x45.
I can't imagine it being a big deal if you attach a clamp to the vertical stud either, as the clamp seals against the plastic.
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