Matti_75
Matti_75: It is usually not in stock, but it can be ordered.
3 replies · 753 views
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felbjo: I recently removed my old combi boiler in favor of a geothermal heat pump in the basement, and now I'm left with a hole in the chimney where the flue pipe used to connect. I'm thinking of installing some kind of disc vent or similar instead (I got the idea that it might be good for a bit of air circulation, etc.) But how do I do it, and is there any special vent designed for in-wall installation?
0 replies · 696 views
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SWe_
SWe_: Now I am home again after an intense work week. The floor is laid, the wood-burning stove is back in place, and some better second-hand kitchen cabinets have replaced the old worn ones. What remains for the next visit is to lay plastic on the ground in the basement, and then we must, of course, review the other surfaces now that we have a nice floor 🙂. Apart from an incredible amount of hard
13 replies · 2,7k views
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Derbyboy: There won't be much of an eave. The roof beam in the picture is 389 cm. The sheet is 400 cm. When I've mounted the eave board, the sheet sticks out about 10 cm. I really don't know if I can be bothered to notch out every straight beam (as I described above). There are 17 straight beams (cc 30).
18 replies · 3,5k views
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KJD
KJD: Good thread, however, I miss the variant of sheet metal screw with a self-drilling tip, which I was recommended at XL bygg, here in the form of Fasadskruv (I did remove the sealing to reduce the height) - I am building a steel frame for a garden furniture piece from steel studs and don't have them at all in interior walls. Probably not very common, but just thinking for completeness here, in case
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RiKr: Use nails with a length of 48 or 50mm for perfection with 28 battens. It is of course possible to increase the dimensions of the battens, but as noted above, most problems are solved. An alternative is also as follows: Frame Wind barrier 12mm battens, vertical 28mm battens, horizontal 22 panel This results in a wall that can be insulated in the future if desired, with a relatively small
3 replies · 856 views
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JF.: [citat] Is it enough to make the trusses in 45x70? The span is very short and there won't be any significant loads on the roof.
1 reply · 680 views
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Grymsing: Thanks for the reply! Too bad I nailed the studs with hefty nails. 😅 I'll have to break them loose and do tongue and groove joints instead. I don't think the timber rests on the chimney stack, it's just probably resting against it.
2 replies · 989 views
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Per Gårdebrink: [citat] This (plus sledgehammer 😉) is what it became! Thanks!
2 replies · 1,4k views
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t_conradsson: Espagnolette
1 reply · 437 views
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Ste.Sve: [citat] Thank you very much! Now I know how to do it without tearing down the whole house.
2 replies · 1,3k views
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z_bumbi: All the posts I have encountered have an iron rod embedded in the concrete, and the post is mounted on that. These posts include the five at my parental home that have been in place like this for almost 100 years. Then the railing helps to keep the post in position.
4 replies · 1,1k views
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Freppa79: If you are willing to build something on your own, polycarbonate is really easy to work with. It can be cut/sawed and drilled without problems for easy installation. It is true that polycarbonate sheets are more susceptible to scratches than glass, but the material is also practically unbreakable. So from a safety perspective, it might feel more reassuring knowing that the kids can play safely in
3 replies · 3,5k views
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Perperan: I am desperately seeking advice on how to repair my foundation. The cottage was built in 1957 Crawl space foundation but everything is sealed so there is no way to access the inside of the foundation. The wall is sinking further under the house every year. How can we fix this in the smoothest way? The house is in the middle of nowhere so if there is a professional, it is not possible to hire one,
0 replies · 590 views
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Matti_75
Matti_75: You can rent a hålsökare
3 replies · 1,2k views
useless
useless: [citat] It is fairly uninsulated. Cast directly on gravel.
1 reply · 561 views
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Krabbeluring: Have tested these, not asbestos. But it doesn't really answer your question since a product line could contain an asbestos, another one not. There's even a whole series called "viny-best" that looked the same as yours and my flooring. A damn high-quality floor, by the way. Mine have lasted over 50 years and have had dogs and gravelly shoes on them every day. Hardly any scratches.
7 replies · 1,7k views
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Kreacon: [citat] Three heavier hinges will be just fine, I feel spontaneously. The weight is quite low despite the width.
1 reply · 703 views
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thisismeto: [citat] See if it works if I put it here as a comment ☺️
2 replies · 599 views
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Mickael Jensen: Hello, We are going to build a new interior wall in the basement (wood studs and asphalt board before which was dry). Thinking: Attach Platon mat (blue) at the top edge of the wall (Hangs down towards the floor) Screw in steel studs at the top and bottom Metal studs with cc60 70 mm Paroc insulation (rock wool) Diffusion-open barrier OSB board Gypsum We will redo the drainage within a year, 200mm
0 replies · 744 views
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Matti_75
Matti_75: You should not use plastic. You can use wind barrier/fabric instead that breathes.
7 replies · 990 views
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Fred Antonsen: Want to "seal" a concrete basement staircase and concrete paving stones to protect against dirt and growth. What do you recommend? I want to keep the surface and material as intact as possible. Betsil? Redo Ytskydd or something else?
0 replies · 410 views
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Peligroso: Hello, I have a 1.5-story house from the 60s and am planning to open up a bit towards the kattvindarna, i.e., move the interior walls, but I thought I'd keep it simple by letting the vertical load-bearing studs remain somehow while building a new wall about 1 meter further in. As I understand, the red-marked vertical studs in this image are load-bearing? But what about the yellow-marked
0 replies · 467 views
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Den ofrivillige fixaren: Hello! I'm planning to hang a punching bag and a chin-up bar in the garage ceiling. I built the garage 15 years ago and the rafters are spaced at approximately 120 cm if I remember correctly, with a lath and then plasterboard that is spackled and painted. How would you go about fastening these items and finding the rafters without cutting up the entire ceiling? Is it sufficient to attach to one
0 replies · 697 views
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z_bumbi: The classic is a board/ruler on each side, but a slightly thicker sheet per side should also work. Someone who can calculate can provide the exact thickness.
6 replies · 1,4k views
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neo11: Yes, until you paint on the mortar, it is what it is. But on bricks, you should pre-wet a lot, and preferably prime with loose mortar.
4 replies · 892 views
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AG A: [citat] Yes, it works fine. I have also described how to proceed.
16 replies · 1,8k views
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KJD
KJD: There we go
12 replies · 1,2k views
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Intet
Intet: They sit like a rock without a stance. As is well known, size doesn't matter.
1 reply · 445 views
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